Header removal help (starter replacement)
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Header removal help (starter replacement)
I really need to replace my starter, but I have headers. About all I can do is see it, and touch it, no way to replace it with the headers wrapped around it. I don't want to pay a shop a ton of money just to replace a $30 starter either.
I attempted to remove one bolt and I think just the head was turning, so I stopped. The ones on the bottom look nearly unreachable.
I'm sure there many here who has done this before. I've heard that heating them can help - is that with a torch?
Will liquid wrench work?
Please pass on some pointers to me.
I attempted to remove one bolt and I think just the head was turning, so I stopped. The ones on the bottom look nearly unreachable.
I'm sure there many here who has done this before. I've heard that heating them can help - is that with a torch?
Will liquid wrench work?
Please pass on some pointers to me.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,888
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From: Iowa
heat them up its worked for me everytime, liquid wrench will work with the heating, but not by itself, you have to heat them up to expand the metal to break the bolts loose from the heads, then use liquid wrench if desired.
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From: KS
In the Steve Christ rebuild book he stated that he removed them with the engine running. He said the any burns you get would be worth it and I agree with him. I broke two bolts off in the top mounting holes and ended up buying tools too drill them out and put bolts and nuts in (this might explain your bolt just turning if that was done to yours by a prior owner).
I would suggest using anti sieze compund and new bolts when you reinstall everything.
I tried everything BUT running the engine. Heat, Candle trick, Numerous penetrating oils, tapping with a hammer, etc. Walk away for a while if you get freatrated, good luck to ya.
I would suggest using anti sieze compund and new bolts when you reinstall everything.
I tried everything BUT running the engine. Heat, Candle trick, Numerous penetrating oils, tapping with a hammer, etc. Walk away for a while if you get freatrated, good luck to ya.
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I will be doing the same job on my 68 F100 soon. My dad replaced the starter once and had trouble getting the headers sealed up good afterwards, but was able to do it using two gaskets instead of one. Also, people have been telling me that the headers cause too much heat and wear out a starter. Does anyone have any solutions?
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I have a thermal starter wrap around mine, but that cost around as much as the starter. My starter wouldn't even work without it. They have header wrap which is really expensive, too.
I will try mine with it running if I can. I don't have a fan shroud, so I might not.
I will try mine with it running if I can. I don't have a fan shroud, so I might not.
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Would a propane torch be good enough for heating the bolts? How long does it take to heat one up enough to where it should come out?
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From: KS
I used a Oxy/MAPP torch set and it got pretty hot but I still had issues with the top bolts. Big thing is patience I think. The first two I took off I was impatient and didn't let the penetrating fluid soak too long (about two hours) and didn't use heat at all. Of course those were the two that broke off. the rest I took my time on, used heat, penetrating oil, tapped with a hammer, bought six point sockets that fit tight, melted candle wax, heated again and was very careful with the breaker bar. Some of the top bolts still gave me issues but didn't break off.
I think I would have killed chickens and danced nekid under a full moon if I thought it woulda helped.
Two things I have heard since was PB Blaster penetrating oil(O'Reilly's auto parts) and running the engine before removing the bolts. You could just undo the top bolts if it worries you, the bottom bolts came out way easy. I had dissassembled parts of my engine so I couldn't try the running engine trick.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy if you use a torch. LOL
I think I would have killed chickens and danced nekid under a full moon if I thought it woulda helped.
Two things I have heard since was PB Blaster penetrating oil(O'Reilly's auto parts) and running the engine before removing the bolts. You could just undo the top bolts if it worries you, the bottom bolts came out way easy. I had dissassembled parts of my engine so I couldn't try the running engine trick.
Keep a fire extinguisher handy if you use a torch. LOL
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Iowa
Let the top ones soak for a week in brake fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil. The bottom ones shouldn't give you much trouble. You may already be screwed on the one you could feel the head turning, as this significantly weakens the bolt.
Read my post in this thread.
Read my post in this thread.
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It took me about 45 mins. to change my starter and I didn't have to take my headers off. I've got some cheap dynomax headers on my 69 f250 (390) and needed to replace the starter a while back. I loosened the lower rear bolt and was able to bend the inner wheel well fender out about 3 inches. I slid the starter butt end first between the frame the fender and half behind the header. The hardest part was manuveuring it down into its hole. I never knew it could be done and it was the first time I didn't take my frustration out on the old starter(involves throwing it a great distance). I just didn't want to take the headers off, so I thought I'd do something different and it worked.
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mamafedmepaintchips,
Give me a more detailed picture. If you have a 69 250, it shouldn't be much different than my 68. I broke the head off one header bolt and decided to stop. Your headers might not wrap all the way around your starter like mine does??
Give me a more detailed picture. If you have a 69 250, it shouldn't be much different than my 68. I broke the head off one header bolt and decided to stop. Your headers might not wrap all the way around your starter like mine does??
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mamafedmepaintchips,
Give me a more detailed picture. If you have a 69 250, it shouldn't be much different than my 68. I broke the head off one header bolt and decided to stop. Your headers might not wrap all the way around your starter like mine does??
Give me a more detailed picture. If you have a 69 250, it shouldn't be much different than my 68. I broke the head off one header bolt and decided to stop. Your headers might not wrap all the way around your starter like mine does??
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My headers go right behind the motor mount and just off the starter. Sorry, I don't have a camera. It looks pretty impossible, I know, but give it a shot. At the rear of the inner fender there should be a bolt that connects it to the firewall and it looks too long for its place. If you back that bolt out as far as you can, the fender will flex alot. As I was putting it in, I had to roll the starter alot because the lump on the side kept getting in the way. It takes a little force near the end, the shaft of the starter put a little scratch in the bellhousing(aluminum case C-6).
I had all my exhaust bolt holes heli-coiled so they willn't seize. Good Luck
I had all my exhaust bolt holes heli-coiled so they willn't seize. Good Luck