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I am looking for a set of new front rotors for my X and don't knoe what to buy. I have turned these things and they still keep warping. I think because of the larger than stock tires (33x12.5) I should look at a bigger or better than stock rotor and pad combination.
Why? This should have anything to do with it...what about driving in the rain...My rotors are warping in less than 1000 miles. I had the brakes done professionally.
I had an E150 van that did the same thing until I got Ford to replace the rotors and calipers....That was a new vehicle...This we purchased used, so fat chance of getting Ford to fix it.
Anyway I am looking for what would be the best brakes to put on it so I can fix it next month again. This time I will do it myself to ensure it is done correctly...
Buy a set of Performance Friction rotors. It will be the last set you buy for a long time. You will not warp these rotors. http://www.carolinaclutch.com/brakes.htm
Give me a call if you have any questions. 888-462-2739
Mel, I highly recommend Applied Rotor Technology pads and rotors. The rotors are slotted and crygenically treated. I've had mine installed about 15k miles and I love them. The stopping distance is shorter than OEM and I have had no trouble with warped rotors. They are not cheap, but worth every penny!
I replaced mine with rotors and pads from wheelers offroad. Its Been 7 months and I tow a 24ft Pace enclosed trailer alot of miles. I love them and when I checked the prices they seem great. I did the drilled and slotted on my 2000 ex 4x4, here is the site http://www.wheelersoffroad.com/fordbrakes.htm
Last edited by scottmotorsports; Jan 20, 2004 at 09:07 PM.
Frozen rotors are nice too. I put them on my 2001 PSD and so far so good. I tow a 24ft toyhauler and they, along with 911 pads have proven very effective. Way more stopping power than stock. they have not warped at this point but I only have about 5k on them.
I had posted this a while back, but my stock rotors were warping and I found out from another poster, that it was being caused mostly from the lug nuts not being torqued to the correct spec.
Ford came out with an update to torque the lug's at 165 ft.lbs. I have done this religiously and the warping actually disappeared after a few thousand more miles. They are smooth now.
Today, I just heard the first signs of squeeling, which means my warning indicator is telling me it is time to replace the pads.
I just placed a call to ART. That is the place I am going to for the frozen rotors. Others have raved on how much better they are and especially at being able to handle/disappate the heat. I will need that added advantage when towing.
Get yourself a torque wrench that can handle 165 ft.lbs and retorque them after the tire rotations/installations. None of the tire shops I have been to can handle the specific torque setting. Most of them have pre-set wrenches and they max out at about 140.
Originally posted by RobertH Get yourself a torque wrench that can handle 165 ft.lbs and retorque them after the tire rotations/installations. None of the tire shops I have been to can handle the specific torque setting. Most of them have pre-set wrenches and they max out at about 140.
Good suggestion.
You should also snug them up in increments, 80, 120, 165 and work the nuts in a star pattern.
I have a 2000 Excursion 4x4 and have had repeated brake warp. I have not towed anything since my last brake job. I am very easy on brakes. I feel my left side brake is not fully releasing. That is the only side that warped. I do not believe the problem lies in overheating as a result of hard stops. Anyone had this problem or know about diagnosing it? I have cleaned and greased the slide pins on the calipers. thanx
If I recall, the lead time for the ART brakes was about one month. I lucked out with mine. Someone had ordered a set for an Excursion and then backed out. Since the rotors were already being processed, I had mine in nine days.
Originally posted by guruatbol Why? This shouldn't have anything to do with it...what about driving in the rain...
When it rains your rotors don't really get wet due to centrepital force. Unless you go through a deep puddle slowly or something.
However, when you wash your truck a direct stream of cold water hits [what could be] a hot rotor causing it to warp or worse, crack. I just replaced one of my rotors on my van for that very problem. I sprayed my van down about 3 minutes after coming down the incredibly steep, 2 mile long hill that leads to my street.
Although, like others have said, I think your difficulty stems from torque procedures and amounts.
FWIW, I had ART rotors and pads on my Excursion and they warped due to over torqueing of the lugs. (not by me, of course... )
Thanks Rozett....Art called and I ordered my rotors/pads for front and back. He said it would take about 7 days to process them, and then ship. UPS from the West coast takes another 5-7 days, so in total, around 2-3 weeks is usual. Can't wait to get them.
I have 26K miles on my X now, and the last time I looked at the pads around 20K, they looked very thin, so I am guessing it is time. However, I might not put the ART's on until these actually show they are gone.
When the ART's come in, I will pull the fronts and look to see if the squeel indicator is touching. It it is, I will replace them.
The un-easy feeling I have though is that it would seem that this is the time of year to break in new rotor's before summer and towing starts again. The cold air will allow them to stay cooler during the break-in for the first few hundred miles.
What has been your experience with breaking in the new rotors? Do you think I should go ahead and end the life of the originals even if they are not gone yet to take advantage of the cold months?