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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Charging Problems

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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 06:31 PM
  #1  
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Charging Problems

Hello all,

I've got a charging problem, here goes

1985 Ford F250 4X4 302 Fuel Injected. Meyers Plow setup.

I need to obviously change my battery since it wont hold a charge, but here is my real problem. I've used this truck to plow 3-4 times this year already with no problems. Now while I'm driving and hit the switch to angle the plow, this truck just shuts off. I jump start it, it starts fine but will eventually stall and not restart until I jump it. The voltage guage reads totally normal, but yet it still will not stay running. I will be installing a new battery for starters, but does anybody have any suggestions as to what else could be wrong?
 
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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 06:46 PM
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From: Right Next to U
Have you put a voltmeter across the posts to see if you're getting a charge? First charge the battery with a shop charger, then put the battery in the truck, start it up normally, then after it is running disconnect the neg bat cable, if it stays running, it is charging....although you don't know yet how much, if it doesn't stay running, its NOT charging, and it could be your voltage regulator or the alt thats at fault. Basically when you change the ALt out, its a good idea to also replace the Voltage Regulator at the same time, since its cheaper to buy a voltage regulator, do that first if its not charging, then if still no charge, replace the ALT.
Either way you should be getting 13.5 vdc to 14.5vdc anything below or above is not a good thing.....
 
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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 06:50 PM
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I just ran out and checked the battery...totally dry. I'll try a battery, since I know I need on and then test the alt.

Thanks a bunch.. I'll let you know how I make out.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 08:57 PM
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From: GANS
Don't pull the battery cable when the truck in running! there is a good chance that it'll blow the regular or short out the diodes in the alternator.
 
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Old Jan 18, 2004 | 10:48 PM
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You can do that to the Neg post but not the Pos post. I know because I done it.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 08:53 AM
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I replaced the battery and voltage regulator along with battery cables this morning. She's charging up nice and seems to be running stronger than before. With the battery being so low, it must have an effect on the engine controls as well. She seems to be making a lot more power than before.

Thanks for all the advice folks,
Kevin.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2004 | 06:56 PM
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good to hear you got it charging again.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 03:42 PM
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Thanks, but it lost it's charge again overnight. after a more thorough investigation, and several hours of literally knuckle busting and 2 stitches on my chin from a broken ratchet. We found that the alternator had a huge crack in the backside of it, of couse it was under the A.I.R pump bracket. A real MotherF&%$#r to get out by the way. So $39.00 and 2 stiches later the truck is happy again. Although I think it might be in shock from all the new parts it received.


Again thanks for all the advice.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 10:00 PM
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just another day in the life of a ford owner.

Wouldn't have it any other way!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 11:55 PM
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can anyone tell me why they put the alternator under the dayumed air pump anyway?? i seemed to have misplaced my air pump bracket when i changed my alt. so unfortunately i couldnt put my air pump back on mine seems to run better with new alt, battery and volt reg.... or maybe it was removeing the seized up air pump that helped.. either way she spins like a top now if my cheby luvin friend could see it now

**edit** forgot why i was even posting lol i have a 83 302 with t.b.i. on a duraspark ignition system i am haveing some problems and wondering if a bad alternater would make it idle higher and make the check engine light come on? anyone here have any insight to that?
 

Last edited by 85F_150driver; Jan 22, 2004 at 12:02 AM.
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 01:59 PM
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I'm guessing your problem is not the alternator, but the ISC motor, (Idle Speed Control). I' ve been in the pats business for about 12 yrs now, and that is a very likely culprit. Seems most of the "older fords" all seem to have this problem eventually. Probably cost you between 60.00-100.00 for a replacement, but it should do the trick.
 
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