Lower Ball Joint Replacement
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Manitoba
Lower Ball Joint Replacement
Greetings!
I have a 92 Aerostar 3.0L 2WD. It has 216,000 Kms on it and runs great. I have just replace the two outer tie rod ends and left the inner ones alone as they are fine.
I now am considering the replacement of the Ball Joints. I found lots of info for the upper, but must be missing info for the lower.
I don't want to pull the control arm out, and heard that it can be don on the truck.
Any info would help.
PS: I have been using this van to tow a 3200Lb travel trailer for 7 years with no problems. I can't go faster than 50 Miles per hour, but get to where I'm going in one piece. I have added a second external trany cooler that is twice the size of the first and the trany is still OK.
I have a 92 Aerostar 3.0L 2WD. It has 216,000 Kms on it and runs great. I have just replace the two outer tie rod ends and left the inner ones alone as they are fine.
I now am considering the replacement of the Ball Joints. I found lots of info for the upper, but must be missing info for the lower.
I don't want to pull the control arm out, and heard that it can be don on the truck.
Any info would help.
PS: I have been using this van to tow a 3200Lb travel trailer for 7 years with no problems. I can't go faster than 50 Miles per hour, but get to where I'm going in one piece. I have added a second external trany cooler that is twice the size of the first and the trany is still OK.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
Welcome to the club! I am also planning to replace the lower ball joints. I am getting a cracking sound on right turns and I rather be safe than sorry.
I need to take out the lower arms to take them to a press to get the old ball joints out and the new ones in.
I started removing the arms but found out that I'll need a few more parts before continuing. The rubber parts of the stabilizer bar are shot, so are the bolts (very rusty). Then you have to remove the shocks. Found out that the wimpy bolts holding the shock to the arm from below are badly rusted and turning their heads off the threads. This means new bolts and drill out the remains from the arm.
The upper nut holding the shock won't give way as well - I'll have to cut this damn thing off! So this means: new front shocks!
The job is easy: remove stabilizer bar from arm. Remove shock and compress spring (may even not be necessary). Loosen bolt on ball joint and remove spindle from ball joint. Remove bolts holding lower arm to body and take it off.
I've done this job twice on Mercedes cars and it was similar. Just beware of the spring!
I am planning to pull a 1,300kg (~2,500lbs) camping trailer and I was also planning to install a second tranny cooler. What type did you use, how did you install it and where did you install it?
I need to take out the lower arms to take them to a press to get the old ball joints out and the new ones in.
I started removing the arms but found out that I'll need a few more parts before continuing. The rubber parts of the stabilizer bar are shot, so are the bolts (very rusty). Then you have to remove the shocks. Found out that the wimpy bolts holding the shock to the arm from below are badly rusted and turning their heads off the threads. This means new bolts and drill out the remains from the arm.
The upper nut holding the shock won't give way as well - I'll have to cut this damn thing off! So this means: new front shocks!The job is easy: remove stabilizer bar from arm. Remove shock and compress spring (may even not be necessary). Loosen bolt on ball joint and remove spindle from ball joint. Remove bolts holding lower arm to body and take it off.
I've done this job twice on Mercedes cars and it was similar. Just beware of the spring!
I am planning to pull a 1,300kg (~2,500lbs) camping trailer and I was also planning to install a second tranny cooler. What type did you use, how did you install it and where did you install it?
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Manitoba
I was hoping for a way to remove the ball joint that didn't involve removing the arm. Can the ball joint be removed with a C type of clamp and some implact sockets?
As for the tranny cooler, I mounted it in front of the AC radiater. I made some metal brackets that screwed to the sheet metal on both sided of the rad. I bought the largest cooler I could get and it has done the job.
As for the tranny cooler, I mounted it in front of the AC radiater. I made some metal brackets that screwed to the sheet metal on both sided of the rad. I bought the largest cooler I could get and it has done the job.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 305
Likes: 0
I don't know whether such a clamp can be strong enough. After so many years (10 in mine) the ball joint will sit very tight and rusted in its base.
I had the ball joints of my Mercedes pressed - pressure was x tons and when it came loose, you heard a very loud crack. So I guess you need a lot of force to get them out.
I know some shops use mobile presses so the arm doesn't have to come out. My do-it-yourself shop doesn't have one, so the arm has to go.
I had the ball joints of my Mercedes pressed - pressure was x tons and when it came loose, you heard a very loud crack. So I guess you need a lot of force to get them out.
I know some shops use mobile presses so the arm doesn't have to come out. My do-it-yourself shop doesn't have one, so the arm has to go.
