When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Anyone seen any great differences(besides cost), in synthetic oil? After reassymbly of my 351M I am considering using synthetic. And will the rings seat using synthetic or should I use reg. oil until their seated and then change? Thanks Uncle Jesse
While I do not think synthetic is worth the extra cost, especially in a truck, this ring seating thing is a throwback to the old chrome-plated rings of the past. Unless you used chromed rings, break in oil should not be an issue. Some new cars, Corvette, BMW, Mercedes and others, leave the factory today with synthetic already in there, so it cant be an issue.
Some folks do like to use a cheap oil for initial fill and then dump it within a short time to flush out any dirt or other particles that may have been left behind during assembly, probably overkill.
Rebuilt aircraft engines use non-detergent mineral oil for initial fill because of the chromed bores.
The only reason I like synthetic is that when it is -30 degrees it still flows like water. Atleast the older mobil 1 try-synthetic. I guess the new supersyn isnt as good for cold weather.
No its not as good for cold weather. i started up my car yesterday morning it was -1 degrees. Started perfectly but took a heck of a while to warm up. Still sounds a lot better than my parents cars
I use 5-50 Castrol Syntec year round and if you finish your cyl walls to a 320 or 400 grit you can put in cast or moly rings and synthetic immmediately and you shouldn't use oil . I always run a cheap oil for the first 30-45 minutes and drain it and change the filter on a new motor at first start up as there is always minute bits floating around in the engine after a overhaul.
I went to 5-40 Rotella Syn. oil after previous owner ran truck 42K with dino. I am sold on synthetic because of observations I have made in the industrial world documenting before and after results going from dino to syn on large (200hp) air compressors. Not exactly apples to apples but I have seen significant drops in heat and vibration with synthetic which I have documented. I want the best for my '02 PSD so wouldn't use anything else.
I don't think there is any easy answer to your question. IM view, synthetics cost more and on the basis of uoa alone, do not generate lower engine wear than dino oil. They do offer the advantage of using extended drains if you are so inclined, improved engine cleanliness, are better where turbos are used, towing or other temperature extremes. In the final analysis it is a personal choice based on your driving conditions and maintenance preferences.
uao is short for used oil analysis. It is a laboratory report about the condition of used automotive oil, including the key metals that typically show wear in an engine, among other important readings. Cost anywhere from $20-35. You'll see a few reported on this site. Or go here if you really want to over dose on the topic .....
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.