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I have a diesel power flip chip with an 80 horse towing burn and the big HP burn. It's been custom programmed to my truck and driving style.
I have a homemade tymar type intake, but I couldn't keep the EGT's in check with the big paper filter, so now I'm running a 6"x9" conical S&B power filter that's fed by a fluted 4" PVC tube mounted in the "zoodad" hole.
The exhaust is 4" turbo to tail with no muffler.
I'va also removed every flow restriction I could find. The exhaust butterfly and the intake heater are the big two, also removed the crank case vent tube from the intake.
I have an aftermarket wheel in the stock turbo, and have the wastegate locked down tight.
To disable the wastegate unplug the W?G actuator (the little red pressure line going to the back of the turbo). Unhook the wastegate actuator rod and tighten the turnbuckle dow an few threads, and reinstall.
The Exhaust backpressure valve is the flapper valve mounted to the exhaust housing of the turbo to aid warmups. Even if the actuator is unplugged the valve is still taking up space that could be otherwise flowing exhaust. I'll post a link if you're interested.
Don't forget about the intake air heater, it takes up about 20% of the intake tube feeding the engine.
You bet a shadetree mechanic can do it, I'm one. Well, technically I'm a professional jet engine mechanic, but I'm a shadetree diesel mechanic.
Last edited by cookie88; Feb 23, 2004 at 09:52 PM.
Shoot me a link. I'd like to read up. I'm sure you've heard this a 100 times, but what is the purpose of the backpressure valve, and what negative effects could I possibly get by removing it?
The only difference between that article and your 02 is you have seven bolts holding the EBV on instead of three.
I have experienced no negative effects other than it take a couple minutes longer to reach operating temps. A fair trade in my book. You will also get an oil leak if you forget to unplug the EBV electrical plug.
Looks very promising. That would definitely let the exhaust out quicker. Do you know if anyone sells a replacement assembly without the EBPV, just in case i ever wanted to put it back to stock?
Got a link for the wastegate mod and intake heater mod? I have the same line of questioning on those mods also. What are the purposes of these items and what benefits and possible negative effects are possible(if any) . Sorry if this is covered in another post, but while I have your ear...
Be careful, modifying the PSD is a disease without a cure. Once you start you'll never want to stop. It is a hobby in and of itself, albeit an expensive one.
Would you recommend installing a wicked wheel at the same time you gut the exhaust backpressure valve? I just wondered if it would be easier to remove the entire turbo than the EBPV. Then, while it was off, I could replace the compressor wheel. Any tips(links) on removing the turbo that a first timer would need to know. Order of removal, tools, other things to look at or replace while it's off, etc....
Also, do you have an estimate on how much a wicked wheel, gutted backpressure valve and intake heater removal would lower EGT's?
Would you recommend installing a wicked wheel at the same time you gut the exhaust backpressure valve? I just wondered if it would be easier to remove the entire turbo than the EBPV.
Yes, if you switch it around. If you are removing the turbo to install the wheel then it is a perfect time to gut the valve. If all you were doing was gutting the EBV, it is easier to leave the turbo in place.
Any tips(links) on removing the turbo
Of course. LINK. Basic hand tools are all that's required. the only really important tip offhand is make sure to thoroughly presoak the hot side band clamps with a penetrating lube. It takes a while the first time, but is pretty straightforward.
do you have an estimate on how much a wicked wheel, gutted backpressure valve and intake heater removal would lower EGT's?
All my little airflow mods had a cumulative reduction of about 200 degrees, but the biggest factor is always going to be your programming.
Thanks again for the valuable info. You've been a big help. 200 degrees is enough to make me feel comfortable w/ my existing tune, and maybe go to the next level. As soon as my buddy get his car out of his shop, I've got some mods to do.
Originally posted by cookie88 , also removed the crank case vent tube from the intake
i am interested in this mod,i found where it comes in, did you cut or grind off that little scoop. and after you unpluged it where did you run the vent to(so as not to put an oily residue in the engine compartment. any info would be great
No, I removed it completely and used a piece of 4" tubing in it's place.
and after you unpluged it where did you run the vent to
First I reversed the fitting on the valve cover so that the outlet pointed to the rear. Then I installed a 3/4" hose splice. Then I took about 10 feet of 3/4" heater hose and routed it up over the brake booster, down the firewall and down the frame to exit behind the back door.
On the IAH delete there's no reason the red (hot) or black (ground) wires have to be removed is there? If I wanted to leave them in place for future return to stock and just taped the hot off would that not be fine?
cookie thats great- as i have been thinking about this i thought - em i wonder if i could take that thing off and reverse it and run some tubing to the bottom of the truck. i then thought i have got some 4" stainless left from my exhaust(i wonder if that will replace that piece) thank you for the help. at least i know i was on the right track. i guess great minds think alike