here's a new guy question: '94 f-150 2 w.d. 5.8 w/e4od ran fine for months after routine trans fluid change, then started shifting badly...1 to 2 upshift is very harsh 2 to 3 isn't quite as bad,into o.d. is ok but not impercepceptable like it once was. I can take out the problem by disconnecting the battery,this lasts sometimes for days,sometimes only miles. On a tip from a Ford tech. I replaced the shifter position sensor on side of the trans. This worked for at least a week, now it's back. Anybody run into this? I'm trying to beat the system a little,I'm outta work and don't really want to pay the $100 the dealer wants to check codes etc. Any thing you got would be appreciated.

 

You can pull the codes yourself just using a paperclip and the check engine light. Read this: http://www.broncodata.com/tech/codes.htm

 

I had the same problem with my '94, I was told by a FTE member that there was most likely a broken spring on the 1-2 accumulator piston, and upon dis-assembly I found just this- a broken spring looked like a chain in many pieces, I was told to change not only the spring but the piston itself, as they have re-designed it and the new one is better, well I went to my local Ford dealer and they had the piston and spring it stock.
I think there might be a tech article on this procedure on this site, but if not I have this info with a picture printed out and would be glad to share it, just let me know!

 

Thanks for the info! If Ineed tech info on that spring fix I'll let ya know.

 

bago, Don't go off all half cocked about this procedure!
IF the spring by some chance ISN"T broken it could come out and hurt you!
IT, BTW is the lower spring that breaks, and like I said don't forget the new style piston, and then while you are in there change your fluid and filter, including the draining of the torque converter, then add fresh Mercon/Dextron fluid, and DO NOT add any additives, I added TRANS X to mine and it really didn't like it, I had to drain and refill again, I've got almost 90k miles on mine, shifte like new now.

 

Do you get the "OD off" light flashing right before the hard shifting starts? Dump the codes.

Here is what it might be and if so it is not inexpensive. The torque conveter clutch is one of the known trouble areas in the E4OD. When the computer detects slippage of that clutch it raises the oil pressure to compensate, resulting in hard shifts. Disconnecting the battery puts everything back to default settings, including oil pressure. The next time the TCC slips, such as when climbing a hill in OD, the pressure goes up and the hard shifts return.

This is exactly what happened to me. The 1-2 shift was so hard, I was afraid of damaging the driveshaft. A full fluid change did not help, but I did not try any additives.

Jim

 

Thanks jimandmandy...guess what? When I bought the rig the shifter end was mangled and taped together, I found that the o.d. button still worked so I let it be not knowing there was a light or that I could get problem codes from it.Got the truck from my local dealer for almost nothing so I guess I better fix these"little things" first (or soon).Thanks again.

 

I bought my 1994xl and it started doing the same thing within a week. In addition to the 1-2 harsh shift, when shifting into reverse it would pause and drop into gear REALLY hard.
I took it to a local dealership who wound up replacing the torque converter/clutch and the position switch as well as drain/fill/filter. The whole shabang was going to be around a grand or so but, thanks to the warranty, I paid like $300 or something. Since then it's much better but the lower gears still seem to shift pretty firmly (but nothing like before).
I have read that Ford belives in a firm shifting trans and that's supposed to be a reason for their durability.
Anybody have any input as to the remedy/cost. Does it sound like this makes sense and I'm probably in good shape at this point?

Thanks a bunch, ya'll

 

I had a similar problem with a 94 F250 Diesel 2x4
with the E4od. OD flashing.Hard shifting No OD.
It was the module on the side of the transmission.
Took it to Ford hooked the truck up on the diagnostic machine
and received an error code.
They replace a part. Worked fine for a week.
Again.
Back to Ford.
New error message. New differerent part.
Week later. Same.
Back to Ford with comments about techs and computers.........
Service manager said "We will fix it this time."
They did.
My initial cost was $542.
They never charged me for the second and third trips.
They finally installed the complete module instead of
individual parts of the blasted thing.

Roland

 

I'm a little nervous about puttin' money into a sick trans but 'cause I'm broke I'm thinkin' about pulling the trans and installing a new torque converter.I bought it with 115,000 miles on the clock and it shuddered hard on steeper hills. A ford tech told me it was a fluid problem so I changed it and it was perfect foa about a year. Now with all this info from you all I,m wonderin' if the converter is hurt. Any guesses on what a new t.c. costs? Any tricks to the swap? I'm a former ford tech, used to the older stuff (c-6 etc) but not computer controlled trans. Thanks to all for the info.

 

Have you changed the fluid lately?? I can't figure out from this thread if you have. Please check your radiator for tranny fluid and your tranny fluid for coolant.

Are you hauling stuff without an extra tranny fluid cooler?? If you have overheated the tranny a couple of times, maybe you should just try another oil change.

 

HI,924...Yeah,when I bought the truck it had a shudder on hills, my local Ford techs said it was the fluid so I did the change and it worked fine for nearly a year. The truck seems really kind of "heavy duty" for a 2 w. d. f-150...it's got a trans cooler and a factory oil cooler and generally seems to be set up for towing although I don't see any indication of it ever having a reciever type hitch or even a ball on the step bumper...The front fenders have factory decals saying "lehigh valley special" which refers to the Allentown Pa. area wether that means anything as far as equipment goes or just dress-up I don't know and what it was used for is anybody's guess. Thanks for any input.

 

Hi Guys, Yep it is Bikerlolo short for Laurie.

FAA Licensed Aircraft Mechanic since 1987

E350 351 E40D New Motor and Trans, Then rear end rebuilt.

ALL BECAUSE FORD WANTED TO MAKE THE E40D SHIFT LIKE A CADILAC IT IS A "TRUCK" OR VAN WHAT EVER A WORK VEHICLE NOT A FRICK N CAD.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !

WE HAVE HAD DRIVE LINE VIBRATION FOR YEARS NOW AND
WEARING OUT TAIL SHAFT BUSHINGS

With over $10,000 in new Engine Trans Built heavy duty and everything. WE PAID MORE FOR THE TRANS THAN THE LONG BLOCK MOTOR!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Two weeks in service. Vibration and another tail shaft housing.

I was hoping for a few weeks to get it to the rear end guy.

Had the rear end rebuilt.

Still has some slight Vibration but now SHUDDER on acceleration.
Worse when hot. " After driving on the FRWY.

I am working with the trans shop to figure it out.

Put a gauge from the pressure port up under hood and out so I could see it while driving. The trans starts to shudder then the computer increases the pressure. Oh did I mention Rebuilt computer new fuel injectors. Anyhow after pressure increase it shifts hard if you let off it will go back and forth from gear to gear hunting. Acts and feels like the motor is lugging. NOT GOOD FOR A MOTOR ESPECIALY A NEW ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

FORD TRANSMISSIONS I HATE AUTOMATICS

I will keep you posted on the outcome.

MY THOUGHT IS PROBLEM WITH FLUID VISCOSITY AND STICKY VALVE SEEMS TO OVER PRESSURE AFTER IT TRYS TO COMPENSATE FOR SLIPPING BY INCREASING PRESSURE THEN IT OSCILLATES.

 

YO bikerlolo, thanks for the input.I got a previous post from jimandmandy that seems to have explained my trouble at least...he sez the computer tries to compensate for torque converter slip by raising line pressure.I've gone to locking out overdrive as soon as I get going and it hasn't happened since...but guess what? The gas pig is a real hog with no o.d. I always swore by auto's in trucks (C6 anyway) but this is my last. If a 4 speed has to be that huge,heavy and complex I'll pick my own gears and pick up a 5th speed as well.Thanks,Bagodonuts

 

bagodonuts
this is a long shot but not expensive,there is a rpm sensor on the rear end( differential case).look for elec.wire going to the sensor,replace it,only a few bucks.
i read about this on another ford web. the writer had your same problem and he claimed this fixed it.
otherwise i think your looking at a rebulted tourqe converter.
good luck

Upper Case edited out by FTE,
Please check your e-mail