Was wondering if it is OK to run ATF in my Aerostar power steering pump instead of power steering fluid? Anybody doing this? Seems to be common in trucks (spec for my F-250 is ATF or power steering fluid, depending on the source you check) but don't know about my van. My choice would be Mobile 1 ATF if compatible with seals, etc. Thanks!

 

The owners manual for my 87 Ranger sez to use ATF in the power steering. Shortly after I bought it new, I flushed it & filled with this www.amsoil.com/products/atf.html I now have 221,000 miles on the truck & the only thing that I have done to the power steering is to replace a leaking pressure hose at 190,000. So switching to synthetic is an XLNT idea.

 

For the power steering, the owners manual references a spec which is for Type F ATF. Mobil 1 meets the Dexron/Mercon spec, so technically you shouldn't run it in the power steering since it's not Type F. Practically speaking, I'm not sure that it matters but I went by the owners manual and used Type F to be safe. I don't have the specs so I don't know what the differences are between Type F and Mercon.

 

I just went throught this on another can and here is what I found out........

ATF Type F is / the same as Power Steering Fluid. It was something FORD tried in the older Transmissions but it didn't catch on. One fluid for both the PS & Trans.

Dexron/Mercon are differant then Type F. It could work fine or not.

SIDE NOTE: My Areostar power steering started leaking fluid after someone put in some Dexron/Mercon ATF by mistake. Did that start it or was it something that was going to happen anyway? Who knows.

 

I would recommend real PS fluid (clear in color) over any ATF.
I change my PS fliud often and after years of using ATF I tried PS fluid recently. I was amazed that the steering wheel was much easier to turn (especially when cold) and the typical Ford PS pump whine or buzz (sounds like dry gears turning) was reduced tremendously - almost gone!

Just my experiences,
Scott

 

Hey Scott109,

What is the procedure for changing PS fluid? I have never changed mine (167K miles) and I am beginning to worry that I should have been doing that all along when I change my ATF. How do you drain the PS fluid and is that difficult on Aerostar 4.0L?

 

Don't open any of the fittings. They have these Teflon ring seals on them. Once you open them up, they are ruined, and it's almost impossible to find replacements. My bet is that you'll have to siphon off the fluid from the reservoir, unless you are brave enough to splice a T onto the return line.

 

jhjandal:

You can change the fluid by pulling off the return line and starting the van a few seconds at a time while you keep topping off the reservoir. Run the hose into a glass jar so you can see when clean fluid comes out. I ran 3 quarts thru mine until it came out clear.

I also have a 3/8" magnefine in-line filter installed on the return line on my truck and van, I believe in keeping fluids clean.

 

GoneFishen,
Thanks for the info. How do you know which is the return line and what is the point of running the engine a few seconds at a time. Also, what type of PS fluid do you use? I am going to try this this weekend. Thanks again.

 

The return line is the line that goes back to the reservoir and it has a slip fit with a hose clamp.

The point of running the engine a few seconds is to use the pump to flush the system, but you want to make sure you don't run the pump dry.

To limit the flow capacity of the pump, I just turned the engine over with the starter. Before doing that though, you will need to start the engine and then disconnect the fuel pump cutoff switch or remove the fuel pump fuse and let the engine run until it dies from lack of fuel. Then try to start once or twice to make sure all the fuel pressure has been relieved. I didn't do this last step and the engine started on me, pumping lots of fluid and making a huge mess. Also, have the front wheels in the air (requires less pump pressure to move the wheels) and turn the wheel lock to lock slowly while the starter is going. It will require two people - one to watch and fill the reservoir, and one to turn the engine with the starter and turn the steering wheel. Even with only the starter turning the engine, it will be difficult to replace the fluid as fast as it gets flushed due to poor access. Don't get air in the system or you will be doing a lot more flushing to get the air out.

 

Or just pull the Coil wire loose. Then it won't start.

 

But then you will still be pumping fuel into the engine. I wanted to avoid that because I didn't know how much cranking I would be doing in the process of flushing the power steering fluid.

 

With it being computerized and all the electronics working together.....with no spark coming through,
it should shut off sending fuel into the engine.

 

If you remove the return line that goes to the reservoir, you need to cap the fitting on the reservoir or all your new fluid will run out the bottom. Small detail, but very important.

I flushed the PS system on my van last summer. I had a few quarts of Dex III available, so I used that. Big mistake. The system groaned and shuddered horribly. I had to flush it again (I used Valvoline Power Steering Fluid) before it started behaving again.

The Valvoline also did a nice job sealing the leak at the rack input shaft seal.

Cheers,
Eric

 

Hey All.
I've read posts where people use a turkey baster to remove all the fluid from the res, run engine, turn wheel far left then far right.
My first thought was what happens if air gets into the system. Can you bleed the air? What are your thoughts about this procedure? I was thinking about trying it if it was OK to do.
-Cheers,
Andrew