I know there was a recent thread about this, but has anyone had major problems w/ Rhino or Line-X bedliners? Is either better?
thanks


=PScottBx=

 

line-x is the way to go.

my 92 f-150 had the rino crap in it. you can dig your finger nails in it and pull the stuff up. very soft and ugly when compaired to line-x.

my 97 f-250 TD had the line-x in it. 5 years and never a problem. My 01 f-250 SD TD 4x4 had 70 miles on it when it's line-x liner was put down. the next best money spent after the diesel upgrade.

 

I'm going out this afternoon to get the Herculiner DIY paint on bed liner for my '85 F-350. The kit is a little over $100, and if it keeps the rust under control for a few years, well worth it.


-- J.S.

 

Thanks

=PScottBx=

 

hey JS...
let me know how that liner kit goes, i have been thinking about doing it myself.


77 F250

 

I put rhino in and have had no problems whatsoever, except a little hard to clean!
I also had to use the FOREVER BLACK product to shine it back up. Have you Line-Xer's had to do that?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/3ae0a7e34062b4ad.jpg https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/User_files/weldman/3b8be147257a8888.jpg

1978 F250 4x4 - 351M
Don't crush them, restore them!

 

I work at a fire station and most every guy drives a truck, be it full size or the smaller type. Lots of Rhino and Line X. I chose Line-X. The Rhino coats were thicker but a bit too rubbery for me. The tie hooks in the Rhino beds had a coat on them that I could peel off. With the Line-X it wasn't on the hooks or the screws and hardware. It looked nicer, in my opinion. The Line X was thiner, but both gave a lifetime warranty. I move lots of furniture and junk and found that just the painted bed alone held everything in place, if it was tied down properly. Both give you lifetime warranties, so if it peels or scrapes off, they'll fix it for you, so I'd say, go with the one that looks better in your eyes. Just my two cents!
I suppose it really shouldn't matter, because in today's world, either way we get to keep American companies working. Rhino or Line X, we keep America working! Good luck!

 

[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 22-Oct-01 AT 06:42 PM (EST)[/font][p]OK, I finished the Herculiner job over the weekend. In my case it took about four days, because I had so much work to do to prepare the surface. I had some rust where the old paint had been scratched through. That I had to scrape and sand, and then treat with Chesterton rust converter. Much of the bed had been painted over with some cheap stuff that was starting to peel, so I did a lot of hand scraping to get rid of that. I also discovered a brazed patch that was bondoed over, and there was a bent rail to straighten with the bottle jack, and a little sheet metal dent to fix. I washed it out with soap and water after the Chesterton, and when it dried, I put some rust-oleum primer on the rust.

I got the Herculiner kit at Pep Boys, and acetone to clean up. I asked for xylene, but they'd never heard of it. Big mistake: acetone doesn't work at all to clean the liner material. It's OK for cleaning the bed before you apply it, but I'm typing this with black fingers because nothing I've found has any effect on Herculiner. If you do this, do whatever it takes to get xylene. The stuff on my fingers, though, is some indication of how extremely tough this material is.

Masking is easier than for ordinary painting, because you only have to worry about roller splatter, not overspray. I masked it with the tailgate on, carrying one piece of tape all the way across the back, and then cut thru the tape to open the gate. That gets you a straight line. They say to take the gate off, but this is just a work truck, so I didn't bother. I was able to reach everything I had to with the brush.

The scotch pad was missing from my kit, but no problem because this is the kind of thing that really should be done with an orbital sander. I used 100 grit screen. The gallon can was dented, and impossible to open without damaging it so it couldn't be closed again. The opener that comes with the kit is garbage, it just bends. But I had another opener, a screwdriver, and a wonder bar, so I finally got into the stuff. All in all, it looks like I should have opened the box at Pep Boys first.

Mixing was not as bad as they say, you work it up and down with a stick, and there comes a point where suddenly the big clumps all dissolve. The roller that comes with the kit has no handle, just the bare steel end of the bail, so I cut a piece of wood and drilled it to fit. The big roller surprise is that the sponge roller cover material dissolves in the Herculiner, and about an hour into rollering, it starts to disintegrate in big clumps. For both coats, I was able to just barely finish as it started to come apart. But this is less of a problem for the finish than it might seem, because the particles of rubber in the mix match fairly well with the extra debris from the roller. I'm not sure about their brush, because I used an old bristle one of mine, and it wasn't affected at all. You can wrap the brush in plastic after the first coat, and it'll still be usable two hours later for the second coat. Thereafter, just toss it.

One thing you'll need that they don't tell you about is a big sheet of polyethylene or an expendable plastic tarp. Even after two hours, the first coat isn't really ready to walk on, so you have to protect it while you do the second coat. Another thing worth having is one of those rubber kitchen scrapers, the kind you use to get the last of the mayonnaise out of the jar. I bought two extra quarts instead of just one, and needed both of them. Between the three cans, that scraper probably saved me about $5 - $10 worth of the liner material. At $100 per gallon, it costs a bunch more than mayonnaise. A gallon and a half was just barely enough, I scraped all three cans clean.

All in all, there are two situations where Herculiner is ideal. One is for crummy old work trucks like mine, where appearance isn't too important. You get good rust protection in a usable bed for under $200 plus your labor. The other is for ultra high end show trucks where you want to do your own custom job, not settle for the same job that the same spray guy at the liner shop does on all the other trucks. It'll take a lot of experimentation and practice to get the effects you want, but despite the troublesome accessories, the material itself is wonderfully controllable. You'll just need a couple trucks to practice on and develop techniques first. In between those extremes, Herculiner is a good choice if you're willing to do the necessary prep work. If you'd rather just throw money at the problem, take it to one of the spray shops.

As for durability and friction, I can't say yet because it hasn't dried completely. In a couple weeks it may be fair to comment on that.


-- J.S.

 

You can walk on rhino very quickly, like 10 minutes maybe?

1978 F250 4x4 - 351M
Don't crush them, restore them!

 

I probably could have walked on the first coat of Herculiner after two hours, but I really felt like protecting it. If I'd had a wet roller fragment stuck to my shoe, it might have messed up the job. I was thinking in terms of developing techniques for doing a really good looking job, knowing full well that this first work truck wouldn't be one.



-- J.S.

 

Went w/ the Line-X and a low profile saddle box. The Line-X looks great. They guy took out every screw, bolt, etc... prior to spraying. Time will tell i guess.... so far........ more than satisfied.
=PScottBx=

 

how muh did yall pay for the rhino and for the line x. i was considering doing the herculiner but since i am getting my truck painted in the spring i want it to look good and last the first time...besides i would much rather pay a little bit more and have it done right and get a warrenty on materials. thanks.





77_F250_460

 

Both are same price around here and both offer lifetime warranty. So it comes down to what you want out of the liner. Line-X is thinner and harder. Rhino is thicker and more rubbery. The most important thing is to check out the shop to see what the quality of their work is. The Rhino shop I used took off the bed hooks, bed bolts and tailgate access panel before spraying. The tailgate panel got sprayed seperately so it can be removed (which was a good thing because the idiots left a roll of tape inside my tailgate).

I carry a large slide-in camper, so I picked the Rhino because it's more resistant to sliding. I want my camper to stay put when I'm off road and it works. I've been on really rough "roads" and the camper has never moved. I've also shoveled dirt and gravel out of the bed and no damage to the liner. It's tough stuff.
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2000 F350 CC DRW Lariat 4x4 LWB 4R100 V10 4.30ls with Torklift tie-downs/Superhitch and Rancho RS9000 and Ride-Rite air springs.
1998 Alpenlite Pendelton 11'10" Slide-in camper with all options.

 

I am a owner of a spray on bedliner system.I researched many of the systems before I chose to go with SUPERLINER. Many liners tend to pull off the vehicle and offer no protection. Unlike Line-x, rhino, speedliner etc. our product will not chalk of fade to a grey or white. We have a UV protection already mixed in our product. Check out our web site www.superlinerandcoatings.com. You can check out some of our work by going to www.super-liner.com and clicking on the super examples tab.

Super liner of Newport News
732 Bluecrab Rd Suite E
Newport News, VA 23606
757-246-2626

 

my truck has a line-x it was on when I bought it and it pealed in a few spots. I went to the local dealer to see about their warranty and he told me it was not applied by him and that there was nothing he could do.
I went to wal-mart and bought some of their roll in liner and sanded the area and touched it up. It seams to be OK now but I do not know how long it will last. It has to be better than the 6 months the line-x lasted.