When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just created a Summit Racing garage account and worked through their online catalog filling out the list of parts for the "wish list" of items I'd like to have on my 460. It's a public garage (garage name is dcdave) if you care to take a look at my choices. Warning the list is basic and does not take into account some part incompatibilities that might exist and there's also some missing like gaskets, etc.
The list is only for the engine, tranny and a couple of misc. items and I've hit $2100 bucks already. I've yet to pick an eingine kit (crank, pistons, etc.)
I'm new to this I guess and reckon you folks have spent far more than this on your machines and that's why I'm on this forum - to learn what I can from my betters.
One thing y'all can tell me is if there are any other ways of specing out a "wish list" and attaining my goal at a lesser cost? What I'd like is to have a store with knowledgeable people who could guide me in picking the proper components.
word of advise is to think about the end goal of your engine and not pipe dreams. I didn't spend a dime on anything until made sure of what I wanted. I even went as far as to make a super wish list of items. I think in all I did get 70% of them. But I did make due with some parts that were perfectly good and just needed a good cleaning. Oh and here is one more thing, figure machine work to match dollar for dollar what you spent in parts.
dcdave,
FYI, a big block ford costs less than a big chevy, all things considered, and will run much better. Of course, this doesn't take into account the fact that a forged 460 crank costs over 2000 bucks. But you dont need anything more than a facory crank, or a cast steel. If you want to track them down run either truck or CJ rods, but Eagle H beams are really good. KB hypereutetics are awesome pistons.
airharley,
If you're paying dollar for dollar for machine work compared to component cost, your machinist saw you coming, and wont let you leave now.
alright, first off think of what final compression ratio you would like to run, what kind of rpm range the motor will see during most of its time running(picking a cam that will make power to 7500 rpm is gonna sound good and run great, but if you arent gonna run it from about 4500 to 7500 there is no point) and go from there. you dont have to have a huge cam for the motor to run well. and you also have to consider that if you go with a wild cam, you will have to run a bigger stall converter(unless you have a manual). really its all about matching components. and once you decide what you really will be doing with the motor you can set up lists and begin shopping. never rule out swap meets. i got alot of really good deals on parts through swap meets and ended up spending about a grand less than if i had bought through parts houses. hope my rambling didnt confuse you too much
Bradon I thought the same thing until I did alot of shopping for a machinist in New Orleans. 95% of the shops I stopped at were major rip offs. I had a few offer me long blocks minus the cam and valve train and some that would only sell me what they knew how to build. So with that said I am very pleased with what I paid for. Oh and the comment about figure dollar for dollar is for doing a stock rebuild with only block work being done. You can buy a master engine rebuild kit and pay $700 for it, add in the cost of cylinder over bore, decking, main journal alignment, cam bearings and freeze plugs installation, shot peen, hot tank, magnaflux, blind tapping all threads, micro polish, chamfer oil holes, rebalance the crank, blueprint and you can bet that $700 later your done with the block.
Last edited by airharley; Jan 14, 2004 at 10:51 PM.
I'm saying we paid a lot less than 500 dollars for machine work, as in bore, hone, align bore, cam bearings, deck the block. We installed the roatating assembly ourselves(after, of course, the machinist mocked it up), the cam ourselves, and everything else ourselves. The other components, my freind, cost well over $2800, and it was used.
Summit racing is very expensive. Try PAW, Jegs, or even ask your machineist. They work with this stuff all the time and can probably find you a good deal.