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k...first post for now but I got a feeling that it won't be the last.
I found a '72 F250 Camper Special that is in really good shape, has all the trim and is overall pretty straight. I'm thinking Resto Custom. Restore the Body, lower it a bit and put some nice Wheels on it and that would be about it as far as exterior mods go.
There is my question. Does anyone know where I can get some good looking 18's, and could there be any clearance problems?
Found that place AIM that makes those 3" lowered I-beams on here and they happen to be local so that works out pretty well.
You guys seem to know what you are talking about, so I figured it couldn't hurt checking in here.
Thanks ahead of time.
I don't think it's a matter of wheel diameter as much as it's a matter of total wheel/tire height. Thus, if you can find some 18's you really like get them, just don't put too tall tires on.
You might be the first ever to swap 18" or greater wheels on one of these old trucks. I guarantee I've never seen one sittin' on dubs.
If this is an F250, I'm not sure that anybody makes parts to lower these. Also, the wheel bolt pattern is 8x6.5" , and the selection of larger diameter wheels for these patterns is limited as compared to 5 bolt patterns. (Weld racing makes some)
My 2 cents, 3/4 ton trucks aren't good candidates for slammin' with "Dubs" :-)
As for tire size limits. the wheel offsett has a lot to do with what can fit. But, I would consider 31" total diameter and 10.5" width to be good guidlines. As you get closer to 31" height, the width may need to be smaller. If lowered, obviously these numbers shrink.
I have seen 22" and 23" with the 8-lug (8x6.5) such as Bazo B-8 22x9.5 and Oasis Ludacris and Edge.. so more companies are making 8-lug wheels now days. From what Ive heard the load rating on the tires is the problem... I think there is one company out there in 22",23" and higher that really has a 3/4 ton load rating. Sure you can put ones on that dont have the correct load rating as people do but....
Went to AIM directly today to ask about their 3" lowering I-beams. They are available. They make them as ordered and take about 4 days. Since they are local I wouldn't have to spend the $100 shipping for those..which is nice.
You're right, looking around the Web , I haven't seen any lowered F250 around...which is part of the appeal.
As far as slammin' and sitting on DUB's...I don't plan on slammin it ( I'm well over 18 )..just like the look of a truck with the wheels tucked in nicely. 3" is really all I wanna do and all I could possibly do.
Not too worried about the amount of weight I can put in the back. The most weight I would possibly put in their might be my racebike or a pocket bike...neither wieght much.
It would seem that this whole thing would be alot easier with a F100..but this truck is in such nice shape..gotta do something with it.
Why don't you just find an F-100/150 73-79 and swap the rear end and front I-beams, or use the spindles on your lowered I-beams. Other than moving the spring pads on the diff, it is pretty much a bolt up. You will need the 1/2 ton master cyl. and proportioning valve.
I haven't done the lowered I beams but the guys here on FTE have expressed some discontent with most of them. It seems some require a cobblred up extension on the steering arms which looses a bunch of your turning radius and basically slows down the steering. I guess it all boils down to how much function you will sacrifice for form.
Originally posted by Opiewan so your saying i could ditch my suspension and swap it out with a 73-79 and it bolts right up ?? i didnt relize i could swith my f250 that easy.
Almost, as mentioned you will have to relocate the spring pads on the diff.
hell that anit nothing, i know where several 150's are sitting, looks like i might have to go drag one home. maybe i get a better final then those 3.73's i running now
Actually I went to Hidden Valley Auto Parts today. 80 acres worth of old trucks and cars. Crazy amount of stuff there..but so are there prices. Saw a few good hoods there today and several others at other places.
Been a while since I've dealt with any Body Shops...don't know if some of them are even open anymore, but I'll try to find out.
Out of the 50 or so Ford pickups I have owned only a few weren't F-250s. My 72 was the all time favorite. 300-6 with T-18 tranny and 3.73 limited slip. Power steering and power disc brakes. 6200 gvw. So It is basically an F-150 gvw but with huge brakes and full floater rear end. It only takes a couple hundred pounds in the rear for a nice ride and it has good enough brakes for towing things that have no brakes of their own. I run 31x10.50x16.5 T/As on 8 1/2 inch wide steel wheels. It has been one awesome old ride for the last 19 years and now rests in Alaska and awaits my occasional return. I wish I could find another nice one just like it. Except I might go for a 390 or 460 this time around.
I just was wondering why you'd want 18+ inch rims on a '72?? Much less 22 or 24 inch rims. Adding rim height won't make the handling much better. It's not a sports car, ya know. Personally, 31 x 10.50's are perfect. The amount of weight you're moving with a 2+ ton vehicle makes it hard for it to handle any better. Think about lateral weight transfer. Less sidewall equals more understeer. More understeer means more steering input. Basically, it's not gonna turn too well unless you have slicks on all 4's(kinda expensive), unless you drive it at 20 mph all the time like the little honda guys with their lowered civics(lmao)
You want a low ride, go buy a corvette or something.
Sorry, I just hate when people try to turn trucks into slammed, lowriding sport cars. They are trucks.
I would have to agree with mypa. Also you are dealing with suspension and steering components that were never intended for wide tires so handling and tire wear may end up being very unsatisfactory. If you really want to slam it and do it right you should check out the installation of a Fatman front suspension in this months Classic Trucks magazine.