My '94 Explorer gremlins
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From: Oklahoma
My '94 Explorer gremlins
I've posted before on an electrical problem which I haven't gotten fixed yet, but now I have another problem. The Explorer won't start. I have headlights, interior lights, dash lights, etc, but when I turn the key, it won't even crank at all, just total silence. When I turn on the headlights and try to start it, the lights stay lit and don't fade or flicker in the least.
The problem has been intermittent in the past, when it is cold, but now is permanent.
I have changed the starter selenoid and the battery with no help. I can hear the relays under the hood clicking also. A while back I had the multi-switch in the column replaced with a part from the boneyard. The headlights wouldn't come on at all and this fixed that problem.
Could this be the ignition switch in the column again?
The problem has been intermittent in the past, when it is cold, but now is permanent.
I have changed the starter selenoid and the battery with no help. I can hear the relays under the hood clicking also. A while back I had the multi-switch in the column replaced with a part from the boneyard. The headlights wouldn't come on at all and this fixed that problem.
Could this be the ignition switch in the column again?
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From: Oklahoma
I probably could. I've tried shorting the hot lead on the selenoid to the fender and trying to start it that way and nothing happens. A friend with another Explorer showed me this.
So I'm guessing if I have no voltage, that would indicate the ignition switch?
So I'm guessing if I have no voltage, that would indicate the ignition switch?
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From: southeast,usa
If I remember correctly your starter has a heavy wire and a lighter guage wire going to it. Check the connection at the end of the lighter guage wire where it attaches to the starter solenoid. The solenoid is on the starter. The starter relay is located on the fender well. The ignition wire running to the solenoid has a push on blade connector that gets loose and when it does the starter will act "dead". Trying to "jump" it at the relay on the fender well won't turn the starter motor over..............check that connector......................best of luck
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From: Oklahoma
Thanks for all the input. I'm a bit confused on the drawing above. For this discussion, I'm assuming the starter relay and the starter selenoid are one in the same. The part I replaced that is attached to the inside of the fender actually has "starter selenoid" written on it.
Basically I need to jumper the high side of the battery to the starter relay? To which terminal on the starter relay? I have only one "hot" (red) connection on it, so is that the one that I jumper to (point #5) or is it to a different one? I believe there are two wires connected together that attach to the relay and they slide on a connector/terminal as described above. If feels fairly snug. I haven't done any checking on the starter, but I can try that also. I can just crimp the connector a bit to tighten up the connection if I need to?
Once again, thanks for all the input.
Basically I need to jumper the high side of the battery to the starter relay? To which terminal on the starter relay? I have only one "hot" (red) connection on it, so is that the one that I jumper to (point #5) or is it to a different one? I believe there are two wires connected together that attach to the relay and they slide on a connector/terminal as described above. If feels fairly snug. I haven't done any checking on the starter, but I can try that also. I can just crimp the connector a bit to tighten up the connection if I need to?
Once again, thanks for all the input.
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From: Oklahoma
I checked the connection at the starter and it was pretty tight. I couldn't pull it off without really trying to give it a good jerk, so I never got it off the terminal.
I jumpered across point #1 and point #5 in the drawing above. Looks to me like #1 and #3 are the same. The motor cranked and started.
#5 has a red wire going to it, but it doesn't carry the 12V from the battery. This confused me since one of the other terminals, with black wires, has the 12V on it.
Still thinking the neutral safety switch?
I jumpered across point #1 and point #5 in the drawing above. Looks to me like #1 and #3 are the same. The motor cranked and started.
#5 has a red wire going to it, but it doesn't carry the 12V from the battery. This confused me since one of the other terminals, with black wires, has the 12V on it.
Still thinking the neutral safety switch?
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From: Virginia
"I jumpered across point #1 and point #5 in the drawing above. Looks to me like #1 and #3 are the same."
Those two points are the same electrically. I think you are beginning to understand what's going on.
"The motor cranked and started."
This means the battery, battery cables, starter relay(or solenoid-call it whatever you want), and starter are good.
"#5 has a red wire going to it, but it doesn't carry the 12V from the battery. This confused me since one of the other terminals, with black wires, has the 12V on it."
The #5 wire 12 volts comes from the ignition switch through the neutral safety, to point #5.
If the wire on #5 is red with a blue stripe, then the neutral safety switch should have two wires coming out of it with the same red/blue color. If you jumped these two wires together at the neutral safety switch, the switch would be bypassed, and the vehicle will start in any gear. This would be a good test to verify it is the switch.
Those two points are the same electrically. I think you are beginning to understand what's going on.
"The motor cranked and started."
This means the battery, battery cables, starter relay(or solenoid-call it whatever you want), and starter are good.
"#5 has a red wire going to it, but it doesn't carry the 12V from the battery. This confused me since one of the other terminals, with black wires, has the 12V on it."
The #5 wire 12 volts comes from the ignition switch through the neutral safety, to point #5.
If the wire on #5 is red with a blue stripe, then the neutral safety switch should have two wires coming out of it with the same red/blue color. If you jumped these two wires together at the neutral safety switch, the switch would be bypassed, and the vehicle will start in any gear. This would be a good test to verify it is the switch.
Last edited by Franklin2; Jan 14, 2004 at 02:05 PM.
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From: Oklahoma
OK guys I need another alternative. I changed the neutral safety switch on the transmission and still no starting.
I've got a new battery, a new starter relay and a new neutral safety switch.
It still starts when shorting the battery to the relay.
What's left?
I've got a new battery, a new starter relay and a new neutral safety switch.
It still starts when shorting the battery to the relay.
What's left?
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From: Virginia
The only thing to do now is to get a test light or multi-meter, and check for voltages. When the key is sprung over to start, you should have 12 volts at the neutral safety switch. If you don't, then you need to test the ignition switch. If you do have 12 volts on both in and out wires at the neutral safety switch, then check for 12 volts out at the starter relay(probably don't have it there but check anyway). 12 volts at the neutral start switch, but nothing at the starter relay means you must have a bad wire between the two.