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Power window relay?

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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 01:38 AM
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Question Power window relay?

All 4 of my power windows aren't working. They all stopped at the same time. My moonroof still works. I have the Chilton manual, but it sucks, and I can't figure out which relays control the power windows. I am figuring it must be a fuse or relay, but I can't make heads or tails of this stupid Chilton manual. The only other thing that the 4 windows share is the ground wire, which I can't seem to find, either.

Can someone point me in the right direction? With a diagram maybe? It is starting to warm up out here, and it's hard to go to the McDonald's drive-through in the rain without operating windows .

Edited to add: they don't work from any switch in the truck.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 02:28 PM
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What year and model are you working on?


Larry
 
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 07:25 PM
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Sorry, 97 Explorer.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2004 | 07:38 PM
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Look in the power distribution box under the hood. Pull off the cover to it. There is two rows of fuses-relays. You want to pull the 3rd fuse down on the left side of the bopassenger side). It will be a 30amp fuse. Replace it with one of the ones next to that position and then see if your power windows work. If so , just get a new 30amp fuse at the parts store and you're set.


Larry
1993 XLT Explorer 4x4
 
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Old Jan 13, 2004 | 01:46 PM
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Nope, that didn't do it. Must be the ground wire then?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 10:03 AM
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Sounds like you could be right. Check the boot on the drivers side door where the wiring runs thru. That would be the likely area for the wires to break or short. That's the door that is used the most.
If you don't find anything there , email me and I will give you aplace to go too. If I leave it here it wouldn't go over to well.



Larry
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 04:43 PM
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Ok! I found a broken wire in the boot. It is light blue with a black stripe. I am going to splice it and see if I get any windows back. Those damn wires are so tight in there.

Should I solder it or will it be ok wrapped with electrical tape?

I don;t have any power where I am working on it right now, so I will have to solder it later if need be.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 06:41 PM
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You need to use a "butt" connector on the wire. Ared one otta do the trick. Crimp it on as hard as you can. If you don't have access to one , go ahead and tape it but plan on fixing it later.


Larry
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 08:12 PM
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Thanks, Larry! I found a wiring diagram, and that is the main power wire, not the ground after all. I will try to fix it tomorrow. Thanks for your help!
 
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 08:30 PM
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That's what everyone's here for.
Glad you got it handled!!
Have a good evening!!!


Larry
 
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Old Jan 15, 2004 | 07:02 PM
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Cool

It's fixed!! $6 for a butt connector/crimper kit and it's working beautifully!
Thanks for your help!

Now I just have to figure out what is wrong with the back door, LOL.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 08:34 AM
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What's wrong with the back door?

Mason
 
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 10:24 AM
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The rear driver's side door doesn't open. If I jiggle the lock and keep pulling on the handle, eventually I can get it open. I got it open yesterday and removed the door panel. It seems that the lock gets stuck, keeping the door locked. It doesn't pull all the way up or push down. Jiggling it seems to free it up briefly, but it soon gets stuck again.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 10:27 AM
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As you may know rear interior door handles are notorious for breaking in Explorers. I've replaced 4 over the years. Sounds like you are having a different problem. Besides lubing I don't know how to help. Sorry.

Mason
 
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Old Jan 16, 2004 | 11:24 AM
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Mason is correct.
Try using WD-40 or some other lube on the linkages and actuator arm. Don't spray too much on the actuator arm. You might end up having to replace the actuator itself if lubing doesn't work for you.
Not much help , but it might work.


Larry
 
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