Ok, I have a 91 4x4 150 with a 302W, and a 71 Mach 1 stang with a 351C. The Mach is a project not to be finished for some time. The truck is almsot back on the road. The Stang has a C6 jsut lying around. Will the tranny be a direct replacement for the E40D the 150 has now? Or will it not bolt up? Also, if it does or does not fit, how hard is the swap, jsut a imple normal tranny swap + removal of the T-case, which mean front and rear shafts?

And with either tranny, what does it take to add a floor shifter?

I am somewhat versed in motors but not in trannies, exactly what is avalvebody? are their differnat types? I keep hearing about manual valvebodies and people changing to them or some such? What ar they and what ar the advantages?

If need be I can make a few more threads for these quistions....


Thanks
Jimmy Dean

 

The C6 needs to be from a 4X4 as well and even then I think the drive shafts will need work. The front shortened and the rear lenghtened. The 4X4 C6 trans has a different output shaft and tail housing so it can accept the transfer case.

When I was looking into swapping from a C6 to a ZF which I think is the same length as the E40D. The rear shaft will be to long and the front will be to short for my application and the opposite for you.

I still plan on doing the swap but not until this summer.

I am also not sure how your computer will act with out the E40D?

 

What about your C6 is that still in good condition? It seems I need to get another C6 then? If you need a place to ditch the C6 let me know.

And thanks for your help.

 

My C6 is in great shape but I will not be doing the swap until summer or maybe spring time and I may keep the C6 just in case I ever wanted to go back to an auto or if I sell the truck then the new owner can have both trans.

Shipping would be a killer to little rock anyways?

 

Ohio, that not far of a drive, may be cheaer than shipping

 

The engine will go into FEMM (failure effects management mode) I think it is called, where it goes into a "limp" mode as it will think the trans has failed big time, (the computer tells it to shift and it wont) will set codes all over the place, reduce the engine power, and you will not be happy at all!

 

How do you fix this problem? And who says I need a computer? How does it work on an older vehicle without one? Whenever I rebuild the motor everything with a wire attched is getting yanked, except the plugs and dist and coil of course.

 

"And who says I need a computer?"

School is now open!

Sorry, dont intend to sound rude, but it sounds like you dont know what you are talking about at all.

If it is an EFI model, EVERYTHING! The whole engine and trans is interconnected and controlled, fuel, spark, and everything!

If it were a stick shift EFI model, then installing a C6 would work as that computer is not looking for info from the transmission.

"How does it work on an older vehicle without one?"

If it had an E4OD, it has a computer controlling it!

Older vehicles that are not EFI, and not computer controlled, did not have the E4OD!

There are aftermarket companies that offer a stand alone "COMPUTER" for installing the trans in a vehicle without the EFI system.

The first year the E4OD used was 1989, and from then on the newer trucks, and computer controlled EFI was started in 1986 for the 5.0, 1987 1/2 for the 7.5 and 1988 for the 5.8. (as per the ford manual) so if it has an E4OD, it has Electronic fuel injection with the Computer!

"Whenever I rebuild the motor everything with a wire attached is getting yanked, except the plugs and dist and coil of course."

Then any EFI engine you rebuild will not run unless you hook it all back up again or yank the whole system and install a carb manifold and older style distributor and all the related components which would be a stupid move as it would never pass smog!

So I have to assume you never rebuilt one!
In the EFI engine, the fuel injection system will not function without the computer, and the plugs dist and coil have nothing to do with making fuel go into the cylinders!

It's injectors actuated by an electronic signal sent by the computer telling it how long to squirt fuel!
A very short squirt for idling, a longer one for full throttle!

No computer, no fuel!
No fuel, no run!

Dude, there are FACTORY TRAINED mechanics here.
There are also those who lack the knowledge to give advice but still give it nonetheless.

 

You for got, class dismissed?

 

I am not planning on keeping EFI on it, Arkansas doe not have state inspections, I could but a carbed 429 with ablower in my 02 150 and they would not know......

I ws tlaking about the C6, cause I have one on my mustang. which is in multiple pieces

I have rebuilt plenty motors, with/without EFI, you just mistook what I said thats all on the EFI issue

ok redo of quistion. ah n/m

How does a C6 work without having any computer controls? such as in my 71 stang? or the 78 bronc I am looking at?



(so you know, I am against the use of computers in vehicles in anything but a daily driver, makes my toys that uch harder to work on)

 

"I am not planning on keeping EFI on it,"

OK, but a properly designed EFI system would be much better than any carb setup, blown or not.

"Arkansas does not have state inspections, I could but a carbed 429 with a blower in my 02,150 and they would not know......"

OK, I need to register all my vehicles there!

"I was talking about the C6, cause I have one on my mustang. which is in multiple pieces"

Multiple pieces? Did you intentionally do it (tear down), or did it do that itself (BOOM)?

"OK redo of question ah n/m
How does a C6 work without having any computer controls? Such as in my 71 stang? or the 78 bronc I am looking at?"

The C6 is not computer controlled, but they are controlled by internal hydraulics and by levers (one from the carb and the shifter) and suction (again carb), and in my opinion a better trans as for the cost of building an E4OD you could build a C6 and add a Gear vendors OD kit and have a more reliable 6 speed auto!
And no minor electrical glitch will kill your C6

"I have rebuilt plenty motors, with/without EFI, you just mistook what I said that's all on the EFI issue"

The problem with not talking face to face, important things get left out.

"so you know, I am against the use of computers in vehicles in anything but a daily driver, makes my toys that much harder to work on"

That's the whole (stupid and screwed up) point of technology, they want you to have to take it to the dealer for EVERYTHING that goes wrong with it, and pay through the nose!!

EFI can make things run cleaner and more fuel efficent than any mechanical system I heard of, but is that .02% worth it?

Back in the early 50s I saw a test that on a car that weighed more than my 2002 hyundai got about the same (real world mileage, not sticker) MPG as I am getting, although it is not nearly as fast, comfy or clean running.

Some day an auto maker will make a cheap and simple vehicle that anyone can work on and it will sell BIG.

 

Hey archangel would you have a link for that overdrive kit as i've got the ***** with the lack of top speed from my c6, also if you don't have a link do you know how much it's worth?.

Thanks Aaron,

 

It works off five inputs, none of them electrical.

Shift lever position (PRND21)

Manifold vacuum (engine load)

Throttle position (full throttle forced downshift)

Output shaft speed (road speed converted to driveshaft rpm)

Input shaft speed (engine rpm)

These are resolved hydraulically in the valve body to determine which servos are actuated and that determines which gear it is in at any given time. Quite amazing when you realize that this was 1930's technology. The first Hydramatic was offered by Oldsmobile before WWII.

Class dismissed.

Jim