actuator rod
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Joined: Jan 2004
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actuator rod
I went to start my 91 f-150 the other night , and when I turned the key it felt like it had lost the resistance it normally had , and the started did not turn over . The key moves from off to start fine but nothing happens. Also the shift lever is stuck in park. I know over three other 150s where the same thing has happend, and it was the actuator rod. If this is my problem can you give me so tips on how to replace it. I have a streeing wheel puller. thanks. Steve
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 14
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I did this on my 90 Bronco couple months back, had same symptoms, no start and couldn't move out of park. Yeah not too bad, just a little time-consuming for me anyway. Basically pull the wheel, dash trim, drop the column, then start taking column parts out until you get down to the broken piece. There's more than one thing that looks like it could break in there but if it's the same thing it's a weird-shaped aluminum-looking (not really aluminum) linkage thing maybe 5 inches long, couple inches wide. Replacement came from the dealer, less than $20, they said it's a common part to break.
The main tip is recorded better on another thread here somewhere, search for something like stuck in park: you can remove the old part because it's broken but to get the new one in it's easiest to actually remove about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the end. You'll see when you get there. I did it that way and have had no problems.
Only other points I'd add, maybe obvious but if you need to move the truck before fixing you just have to crawl under and pull the linkage off the trans and put it in neutral by hand (yup block wheels etc...) , other thing would be the position of the ignition switch which is mounted down lower on the column, I wish I'd marked it's exact position with tape or something, spent a lot of time fiddling around getting everything back adjusted right, this would have been one less variable to deal with.
The main tip is recorded better on another thread here somewhere, search for something like stuck in park: you can remove the old part because it's broken but to get the new one in it's easiest to actually remove about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch from the end. You'll see when you get there. I did it that way and have had no problems.
Only other points I'd add, maybe obvious but if you need to move the truck before fixing you just have to crawl under and pull the linkage off the trans and put it in neutral by hand (yup block wheels etc...) , other thing would be the position of the ignition switch which is mounted down lower on the column, I wish I'd marked it's exact position with tape or something, spent a lot of time fiddling around getting everything back adjusted right, this would have been one less variable to deal with.
