Brrr... Please start!
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Here is my update:
Replaced glow plug relay--still doesn't start
Checked glow plugs--all okay (all read around 1.5 ohms)
Checked batteries--both okay
Checked fuel--flowing freely and not gelled
Plugged in all night long--still doesn't start
Since I don't have access to a code reader, I'm not sure if the cam position sensor is bad. But I'm going to replace it when it comes in stock tomorrow at the International dealer. $82 part.
If the cam position sensor doesn't fix it, what else could be wrong?
I noticed when I was cranking that the tachometer moved just a little, but not over 0. When I had it running the other day (when it was running terribly) the tachometer was reading 1000 RPM or so, but if I remember correctly it was acting strange. Hopefully that's the CPS.
Replaced glow plug relay--still doesn't start
Checked glow plugs--all okay (all read around 1.5 ohms)
Checked batteries--both okay
Checked fuel--flowing freely and not gelled
Plugged in all night long--still doesn't start
Since I don't have access to a code reader, I'm not sure if the cam position sensor is bad. But I'm going to replace it when it comes in stock tomorrow at the International dealer. $82 part.
If the cam position sensor doesn't fix it, what else could be wrong?
I noticed when I was cranking that the tachometer moved just a little, but not over 0. When I had it running the other day (when it was running terribly) the tachometer was reading 1000 RPM or so, but if I remember correctly it was acting strange. Hopefully that's the CPS.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Cam position sensor didn't fix it.
I even filled the high pressure oil pump.
No fuses are blown, either.
I am having the dealer look at it tomorrow. I don't know anything else after having read many posts.
I even filled the high pressure oil pump.
No fuses are blown, either.
I am having the dealer look at it tomorrow. I don't know anything else after having read many posts.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
Yes, I had jumps periodically throughout the process. The voltage looked good on my in-dash voltmeter.
I really hope it is something simple like an inertia switch. I think I read somewhere else that they do have them.
I really hope it is something simple like an inertia switch. I think I read somewhere else that they do have them.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: Indiana
No, I didn't unhook the batteries. But I had it towed and that wasn't the problem. Thanks for the tip.
I actually have an extra cam position sensor available if anyone wants to negotiate. I'll be selling my truck after my repair so I won't need it.
The proper way to jump is to hook up to the main battery on the passenger's side (at least for the 99 model year).
I actually have an extra cam position sensor available if anyone wants to negotiate. I'll be selling my truck after my repair so I won't need it.
The proper way to jump is to hook up to the main battery on the passenger's side (at least for the 99 model year).
Last edited by BenRosey; Jan 10, 2004 at 09:51 AM.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 77
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From: Indiana
Diagnosis:
Right head runs, left head doesn't. (This is why my truck started twice earlier in the week and sounded like it was missing--it was missing).
The tech said it was because there wasn't enough oil pressure on the left head. He hooked something up to a high pressure oil line and determined that. He says that is due to an O-ring on the injector or injectors that is (are) bad. 4.4 hours of labor to replace those (each O-ring is $20).
It now won't start because it doesn't have enough oil pressure and the injector drive module (IDM) broke since the time when I had it started the two times earlier this week. That is a $650 part. What makes me mad is that the IDM was working fine when the O-rings went bad (I started it twice). Then me continuing to try and start the thing, and the fact that the O-rings are bad, caused this expensive part to fail. What's up with that?
My truck will be for sale soon if anyone is interested.
Right head runs, left head doesn't. (This is why my truck started twice earlier in the week and sounded like it was missing--it was missing).
The tech said it was because there wasn't enough oil pressure on the left head. He hooked something up to a high pressure oil line and determined that. He says that is due to an O-ring on the injector or injectors that is (are) bad. 4.4 hours of labor to replace those (each O-ring is $20).
It now won't start because it doesn't have enough oil pressure and the injector drive module (IDM) broke since the time when I had it started the two times earlier this week. That is a $650 part. What makes me mad is that the IDM was working fine when the O-rings went bad (I started it twice). Then me continuing to try and start the thing, and the fact that the O-rings are bad, caused this expensive part to fail. What's up with that?
My truck will be for sale soon if anyone is interested.
Last edited by BenRosey; Jan 10, 2004 at 09:35 AM.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2003
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Im sorry to here this Ben. I too am getting very frustrated with this problem. Today I am going to remove the tank and see whats going on in there. Mine is a 95, and I was wondering if there is a high preasure pump on the frame. There is something there that all the fuel lines pass through. Is this it? Should I take this off and check that out too?
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 597
Likes: 22
From: Central Maine
Man Ben, that is serious run of bad luck. Thanks for posting. It's good information to have for potential starting problems I may have later.
FYI, my truck will start with no block heater down to about 10deg F. And that's letting it set several days at a time between starts. It was -10 deg F a few days ago and she wouldn't fire up, wind was blowing pretty good too. Had to plug her in, then we had a power outage! Was another hour until it came back on. After being on for a little over an hour, it cranked up and idled loud/rough for a few minutes then ran fine.
Ed
FYI, my truck will start with no block heater down to about 10deg F. And that's letting it set several days at a time between starts. It was -10 deg F a few days ago and she wouldn't fire up, wind was blowing pretty good too. Had to plug her in, then we had a power outage! Was another hour until it came back on. After being on for a little over an hour, it cranked up and idled loud/rough for a few minutes then ran fine.
Ed
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