well here i sit because i cant get my truck started this morning.
Im in illinois and it is about 20 deg. below 0 outside. I plugged in
my 6.9l last night but i guess the blockheater does not work.
This is my 1st diesel and i dont know a whole lot about them.
Although i did learn one thing today, when a diesel doesnt want
to start it wont! This is not something im used to, i mean a gas engine can at least be jumped if it is cold out to get that extra little bit of kick it needs to turn over. I tried to jump my diesel and had no such luck. Can anyone tell me about what it would take to change out the blockheater and tell me a little more about the proper operating proceedure as far as when to plug it in and what it does?
thanks!
jrsaltz

 

First thing to do would be follow the cord for your block heater down to the heater,it should take you to a frost plug hole behind your starter.Look to make sure the cord is plugged into the heater.If it is then plug into a known good power source and listen for a sound(sorta like a coffee perk)comming from the heater area.If you dont hear it chances are its no good(heater).To replace it the starter has to come off,there is a nut or screw in the center od the unit,loosen and lift out of block.Drain as much of the antifreeze as you can BEFORE removing the unit and watch those eyes as there will be a rush of antifreeze from tho hole when the unit is removed.As for when to plug in I use a timer set to come on 3 hours before i need to start my truck and if its going below freezing i use it. /////its just a heater element that heats the water in the block to get the motor warm enough for easier starts and is a great save on your starter as they dont like any extended cranking.You havent mentioned how good your glo-plug system is working,this is also very important even with it plugged in.Good luck ,post back any problems.

 

I've got quite a few diesel trucks. For the ones that I want to be sure about getting started (my snow plow trucks), I have two block heaters. Normally, I only use the OEM low wattage , and either plug it in all night or have a timer on it. In addition, I have 1500 watt tank heaters which I only use if #1 the little heater craps out or I forgot to plug it in. The larger tank heater will heat the engine enough to start it in 1/2 to 1 hours depending how cold it gets. We get down to minus 35F on occasion.
Usually, when I have trouble with the little OEM heater, it's just the cord.
If you had a direct injection engine you could probably use ether to start it (not sure about some of the new ones, though). Don't use ether on a glow plug engine. Some diesels have automatic ether injection when the temperature gets down to a certain point - but they are usually forestry and industrial, and have no option because there's no electricity available for a block heater.

 

Are you sure your GP system is up to snuff?

Do yourself a favor, test the block heater before you remove it. If there's continuity, it's good. Check each wire on the cord for continuity also.

If you have to change it, drain the coolant first.

 

I had a "pet" mouse chew thru the electrical cord on my block heater. Look over the situation carefully before going to the trouble of draining the coolant from the radiator and block. Also, while installing the new heater (if needed) be sure it will not touch the block after installing. If I remember right, it is a hooked shape deal inside the block ... turn it from side to side then determine the center point and tighten the bolt. Recheck it for leaks, it may require retightening.

 

If your glow plugs are good cycle them a few times when it is really cold I cycle mine sometimes as many as six times. To test your glow plugs they have to be at less then 2 ohms if not under 2 ohms they are bad and need to be replaced.

 

I have changed my block heater without removing the starter, if you are under the truck you will wear anti-freeze (I removed the rubber flap at the bottom of the inner fender well to get to mine, but that may have been after I installed the 2" body lift), and remember to unhook the glow plug harness from each glow plug and test it indivually.

 

You can get it started by pulling it, if you have a manual tranny so you can get it inside somewhere to work on it, instead of out in the cold, on the ground, wearing anti-freeze, and in a generally not good mood for mechanic type work.

There is a heater on the fuel line from the transfer pump to the fuel filter that may not be working either, at the temps you are having your fuel may be jelled which will not work either. When it gets that cold the parrafin wax in the fuel turns solid and stops up your filters and lines. A blended fuel, or #1 diesel, or fuel addatives to prevent jelling are required.

 

If you really are in need to get somewhere and cannot wait, just go ahead and use either. Just don't make it a habit!!!!!!!!!!

The safe way is to remove the air cleaner assy, and then have someone else crank the engine. After the engine is cranking for 3 seconds, go ahead and spray a very very quick mist in the intake. Use very very little, if it does not start then keep trying in small mists. Do not overspray because you are lazy. When it starts, if you hear a loud combustion knock, you know you used too much and you need to take note of that.

I have started other peoples trucks for them with either and never ever had a loud knock. People will flame me, but when in need, you have to do what is necessary.

 

Pnose

where did you get your timer? Did you make it or buy it somewhere? I can't find one and my utility bils are already too high.

 

I got mine at a local hardware store(Kents),just get one rated at 15 amps min.Shoulndt be to hard to find,you may find one at an eletrical supplier.

 

Comment about "fordiesel69" and ether use. Generally speaking, ether is fine when used carefully on direct injected engines. Not on indirect injected engines unless you unhook the glowplugs. I've pulled apart many engines with cracked precombustion chambers from ether use, and an occasional shattered top piston ring. We sold machines that came with automatic ether injection built in to the start system, but that is for engines without precombustion chambers.
We used to get complaints from customers that claimed their machines got "addicted" to ether. That, because once they got in the habit of using it, their machines would hardly start without it. In a way, their engines were addicted - because usually they were damaged. I've pulled apart a few that had no top rings left at all, but still ran fine after they got good and hot (they'd skip and smoke awful, at first though).
Personally, I won't buy any equipment with glow plugs if the owner has been using ether.

 

Definatly that is the key, no glowplugs. Not to mention the risk of blowing your face off when the intake valve opens and the GP ignites the either.

Honestly either and GP's together actually make it harder to start. I usually let the controller cycle out and then I wait a few minutes, or I just pull the wire to the relay.

 

Hey

Well first of all make sure that the cord is attached to the heater element. Mine has a tendancy to have a bad connection after i bounce around. But what works better is to invest in a tank heater. I have one of them and 2 block heaters and it works better than the 2 block heaters. I live in eastern Iowa and am havin bout the same weather and i can get mine started with no heater at all. You might want to check and see if all of your glow plugs work as well as the mondule. I have a push button relay and if i heat for bout 16 seconds on the real cold days it normally starts after about 7 sec of cranking. Anyway hope that helps.

Also an idea that ive been working on is a form of intake pre heater. Basically all im doin is running two clothes drier elements one on each side of the intake manifold and that way the air comming in will be heated.

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But you can use ether only small quanities at a time or youll blow it up. Dont worry about using the glow plugs just use them before you use ether and if you can spray the ether in while you are cranking. (2 person starting.)

 

if your fuel is not jelled, either will work. some will tell you that this will destroy your rings but, my 1986 crewcab 4x4. 6.9 has 584,000 miles on it with no such destruction. my bet is on your glow plugs or fuel