[updated:LAST EDITED ON 03-Jun-02 AT 09:47 PM (EST)]My 2001 SD crew cab will only blow 47 degrees at best on a day when it is in the 70's outside. This even after the dealer supposedly fixed it last fall. If it is above 85, forget any cooling at all. Dealer tells me this is the best these trucks will do. The temperature in the cab never goes below 80 on a hot day, 75 on a cooler (75 - 80) day. Actually this prompts me to think of posting this in the SD section to see if anyone else can tell me what their ac blows.

The above is a reply to another post in a different section. My question for you folks here is this: If you have a 2000 - 2002 SD, (esp. crew cab) and have handy a thermometer, can you please take the temp blowing out of a dash vent with your a/c on max after you have been driving a while. If you can post the results here, I can see if my dealer is telling me the truth when he says that the way mine works (doesn't) is normal for these trucks. I have talked to a few other SD owners who say theirs freezes them, but this may just be perception. It would help to have several actual temps. It would also be nice to know what your interior cab will cool to on a day when outside it's sunny and above 80 degrees.

Mine simply does not cool my truck. The temp blowing out of the center dash vent varies from 46 to 50 degrees. By comparision, my 89 f-150 (which was recharged after repairs three years ago, so may not have older type refrigerant) blows 32-33 degrees.

Thank you in advance to anyone who is able to post their temps.

 

Monsta, was riding home today, OSAT= 94, HAD A THERMOMETER in toolbox, and was thinking the same thing, will check tommorow and let you know.BB

 

sORRY Sheperd......not thinking!

 

I've had a temp guage in my vent from day 1. The coldest I've seen is 47. On hot days, 110 degrees, it will blow 50. It will creap up to 60 if you get stuck at a stop light.

 

>sORRY Sheperd......not thinking!

I must have that effect of people...

Welcome bobbyboy!

Sheperd, I'll measure the air temp (once it gets warm outsude again) but as far as cabin cooling....I don't think I can give you an accurate representation.

 

My AC set on MAX cooled my thermometer to 48 deg F. When I switched it to A/C, it jumped up 7 deg. That surprised me it went up that high, but I was in town on a muggy 82 ish day. To me the 48-50 was enough, but I would think it might not be enough if it were 90+ out. I will keep an eye on my temps and report back if I notice any large swings up or down.

Big

2000 F250 SD SC 5.4L Gasser 4.10s 4x4 L/S rearend Western 7'6" plow (hate it-have to have it)White with parchment cloth

 

[link:forums.ford-diesel.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB34&Number=755663&page=0 &view=collapsed&sb=5&o=186&fpart=1#Post757639|CHEC K HERE] (from another site)

Steve

 

Steve - That is real interesting. My vent (a/c off) warms up the outside air 10 - 15 degrees. I never have to turn the heat up more than 1/2 way in the winter. I always suspected this caused the poor a/c and thought this was just because of the routing of air vents by the hot engine. Only problem with your link is that I don't really understand what these guys on the other board are actually doing to fix their a/c. I would not know a heater core from an apple core. How does the coolant going through a heater core, cause a/c to work less efficiently? Would there be any warranty issues involved in doing whatever it is that they do to fix their a/c? I can build or fix a house or barn from the ground to the roof, but always seem to have to be led by the hand trying to do anything to a car, truck, tractor etc.

I bet one of you here with a good understanding of this could earn a lot of good will by going over to that link and restating it here in a form we could all understand and maybe even do ourselves. hint, hint, hint.......

It is starting to sound like a lot of our SD's blow a/c air that just is not cold enough to cool down a crew cab.





>
>
(from another site)
>
>Steve

 

This may not exactly be what is happening, but I hope it helps draft an understanding of the issue.

Envision a box that is partitioned in two chambers.

One chamber contains the heater core (heat exchanger/radiator) with hot engine coolant flowing through it. When the "temperature ****" is rotated to the hot (red) area, air is forced through this chamber and is heated.

The other chamber is "empty". When the temp **** is rotated around to the cold (blue) area, air by-passes the heater core and is supposed to maintain its temperature.

However, the hot coolant (seems ironic doesn't it) flowing through the heater core causes the "empty" chamber to heat too. Thus, even on "vent", air is warmed beyond ambient temps. By stopping the flow of hot coolant through the heater core, the "empty" chamber is not heated and you feel cooler air.

 

I think the AC system has 2 problems.

1. I think that if the charge level is a little low it will significantly reduce AC performance.

2. I think that the heater core is not completely isolated from the air flowing through the ducting system. Coolant is always flowing through the heater core so it is always hot. You can tell there is leakage because the air coming out of the vent (air only setting) is warmer than the outside air. This hot air warms up the AC cooled air. I am planning to install a cable controlled heater shut off valve in the heater line.

I will let you know how this works when I get around to making the mod in a few weeks.

Pete

 

Gary's 99 V10
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=4669&.jpg
Pete, when you get that installed let me know if it does the job for you. I would like to do the same thing on my truck.
Thanks a lot,
GaryE K
garyekuy(No Email Addresses In Posts!)

 

Thanks NoMo, it's nice to have a real easy to understand explanation.

Thanks to you also Pete. You are correct about the low charge, I had mine checked and filled properly, but this only lowered the temp at the vents from an avg. of 54 down to an avg. of 50 or 51. Still will not cool my cab on a sunny day. I think you are right on your other point. As I pointed out in a previous post, my air is warmed 10 - 15 degrees from the outside temp even when just on direct vent.

It would be great if everyone who fixes this problem by bypasssing the heater core could post easy to understand directions as to how they do it. On the other board, they discussed how it was done, but it seemed sort of like expert talking to expert and I really could not follow how to do it. I guess there is also the issue of knowing whether any fix will have any other adverse effects.

The help we find on this board is great. This a/c issue is a great example of something which if solved, will really benefit a lot of folks!

 

>Gary's 99 V10
>https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gallery/displaythumbnail.php?&photoid=4669&.jpg
>Pete, when you get that installed let me know if it does the
>job for you. I would like to do the same thing on my truck.
>Thanks a lot,
>GaryE K
> garyekuy(No Email Addresses In Posts!)


Gary your xcab has problems cooling?.My 99 xcab cools very well, i have never put a thermometer on there, but im max it cools very well in this texas weather. I do have tint alround the truck, i know that helps out alot. Have you checked your front radiator for any air flow restrictions- bugs, leaves, hay, trash, condensor may not have right amount of air flow, just my five cents.

99 dark torredor xcab
02 tow hooks
02 fog lights
02 6cd indash factory
02 cup holders

 

Crane Operator - That is the strange thing about this issue. One truck will blow air at 39 degrees, another will only blow 50. If the heater core thing is the problem, some trucks seem to compensate better for it. That's why I originally thought it would be helpful to have a lot of different folks note their temps to see if there is any pattern in year, cab etc. As a bonus, if the heater core causes a problem, it seems like a few people will soon post their instructions for a fix that will help the rest of us non-mechanics get our a/c working right.

I know with my truck, so far it's my only real complaint. (Well, maybe I'd go for better brakes) But really, it seems we love these trucks and anything that can fix an annoying little problem like half hearted a/c will only make things that much better!

 

There are several ways to cut flow to the heater core. The link above (to another forum) has links to other threads where "Hutch" created an extremely elaborate method of cutting flow using an electronic switch & valve that is operated by the door that directs air to the heater core or the "empty" chamber.

The easiest thing to do is get a simple ball valve and install it in one (either) of the two heater hoses going into the firewall. During the Summer, turn the valve off & no coolant will flow.

Another method is to install a "bypass" in the two hoses. To stop flow into the heater core, you'll turn off two valves and open the third. Obviously, this requires three valves, some "T" fittings and a couple of sections of hose. Basically, you'll take the two heater hoses that run parallel and turn them into an "H" with valves in all three parts of the "H". In the following "diagram", the letter x is where you would install a valve. The - would be a "T" fitting and additional segment of hose.

You should note that the long-term effects of this mod aren't really known. It could cause premature failure (by corrosion) of the heater core. It is also unkown whether the best method is to simply block flow or "bypass" it.