I need help. My f150 '89 conversion van won't run more than about 8 miles then once it is hot it just dies. It is not over heating and the engine light is not coming on. I did have trouble starting it. I replaced both batteries and alternator. Now it starts fine but won't run for long. My thought is it is the icm or the shorting bar. I don't know anything about the shorting bar though. I also can't get it to run on the front tank. Does anyone have some suggestions? It might be a fuel filter causing the front tank problem, but I think something else is going on. Thanks alleyshadit

 

I said f150 instead of e150 sorry

 

as far as the front takn gouse you migh check fuel pressure while switched to that tank. Also if there is none try to listen for the fuel pump to run when you turn the key on. As far as not running when it gets hot I would bet on the icm.

Later
Allen

 

I think your probably right, allen, but do you think I have more than one thing going on? I think there is. Would like some thoughts on the matter.

I am not sure what a fuel pump running sounds like. Could you give me a hint as what I am suppose to be listening for? Can some one describe the sound I am listening for? When I switch from the rear tank to the front tank the fuel gauge doesn't register? Does that mean its a pump problem or a electrical problem?

Allen if you read this would driving with the cruise control on the hotest day of the year result in the icm starting malfunctioning? That is when all this began.

Also does anyone know what the shorting bar's purpose is and would a short result in the capacitor failing and messing up the electrical and batteries?

Alley

 

TFI moduel on the distributor, more than likely. It's a known problem, even involved a class action lawsuit.

Steve

 

I had a '94 Merc Sable that did almost the same thing, and it was the fuel pump that was bad. The fuel pressure was fine as long as the ambient (outside) temp was low. The TFI module could possibly be tested by Autozone. ON EDIT: Some kind of material that the fuel tank was lined with contaminated the pump. The car had about 115,000 miles.

 

I had the back tank pump replace and what I dont get is why it will run on the back tank which runs through the front tank ,but not the front. I would like to now how to get the icm tested there is an auto zone down the road. Do I pull it from the distributor and take it in or what? I am not the worlds best mechanical but for a girl I dont do bad. I still have questions about the shorting bar. does anyone know what the heck it is for ect...

 

I'd have to see the book for your truck, but on the car the module was bolted to the firewall. Some of them are attached to distributors, and yes, you would disconnect it from the distributor. Someone can correct me, but isn't there a fuel pump for each tank? BTW, a fuel pump makes an electric humming sound. Don't know a better way to describe it.

 

In order of probabilty I would go:

1. Module inside the distributor (not sure what it is called)
2. Ignition control module
3. Coil
4. Fuel pump

Hope this helps.

bob

 

Start at your fuel filter. The fuel pump is a common problem. You have 3 of them on an 89, on on the frame, and one in each tank. If the fuel filter does not cure the problem, then replace the ICM attached to the distributor. To replace it you will have to remove the distributor so make sure that you mark the base of the distributor, and the intake manifold so you can align it properly later, also mark where the rotor was when you pulled it out so you can make sure the timing is right. Then go from there.

 

it sounds like you have two differant problems.

First of all as far as the dieing goes I think it is the icm it should be mounted on the disty becouse it is that old if not it will be mounted on the drivers side fender. it it is on the dist unplug the big connector and take out the two bolts and make sure you pull down on it becouse there is two pins that stick up in two the disty.

As far as the fuel pump goes it should sound like a small humm after you turn on the key for a few seconds. The fuel filter makes no sense becouse both tnks run through it so if it will run on one tank then it should run on the other. if you replace the pump you should also replace the filter. Since you said the fuel gauge will not work either I might be half tempted to replace the tank switch first becouse it sounds mor like the front pump is not getting power like it should.

I hope that helps.

Later
Allen

 

the filter is encased in a metal housing, as the van sits the sediment could be falling off the filter to the bottom of the can, then as the fuel is pushed in the sediment gets stirred up and re-clogs the open areas.

 

This same thing happened to my 91 Clubwagon with 351 engine and dual tanks.... There was a safety recall that is no longer any good for 1991 vans and trucks... Here goes.
Vehicles over 10 years old are not covered.

Safety Recalls
TSB Number Issue Date TSB Title 91S39 DEC 91 Recall - Fuel Tank Selector Valve Replacement
THE DUAL FUEL TANK SELECTOR VALVE MAY MALFUNCTION AND CAUSE AN OVERFILL CONDITION IN ONE OF THE FUEL TANKS, RESULTING IN AN OVERFLOW OF FUEL PAST THE FILLER CAP.
Consequence:
THE OVERFLOW OF FUEL PAST THE FILLER CAP CAUSES A FUELLEAKAGE, WHICH CAN RESULT IN A FIRE WHEN EXPOSED TO A SOURCE OF IGNITION.
Remedy:
REPLACE THE DUAL FUEL TANK SELECTOR VALVE.
Notes:
SYSTEM: FUEL TANK, AUXILLIARY.VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: VANS AND LIGHT TRUCKS WITH DUAL FUEL TANKS PRODUCED IN THEFOLLOWING PERIODS: F150, F250, AND F350 LIGHT TRUCKS BUILT BETWEEN FEBRUARY 28,1989 AND JULY, 1989; ECONOLINE BUILT BETWEEN FEBRUARY 28, 1989 ANDFEBRUARY 11, 1991

The manual fuel tank selector valve (dual tank system)malfunctions , when running on the back fuel tank the selector valve may malfunction and cause the back pump to over fill the front tank. This happens more often in warmer weather.

When running the front tank it the engine may stall while cruising, or under hard accelaration.

the manual selector valve mounts on the left frame rail in front of the front tank. It looks sort of like a large fuel filter but, it has 6 fuel lines going into it. 3 main lines and 3 return.

mine cost me $110

 

That could be the problem. I have notice the tanks drawing off both of each other which could really be the over flow problem. What is the part called? The parts store can be a pain. Oh for the days of simple engines. I once had a collectible '49 ford. Now that was an engine you could work on haha.

 

It's called the FUEL TANK SELECTOR VALVE. it is manually operated. NO electrical connections...