brake problem
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: iowa
brake problem
I recently installed a new master cylinder on my 1979 f150 and after bleeding the brakes pedal was a 100 perent infact the brakes were dragging. I drove down the highway and had a hard time getting up to speed. The brakes were burning. They loosened up after awhile but the tonight i started getting stuck on the road with some snow. I put my truck in 4wd that really doesn't work. I got up the road a little then after taking it out and putting it back in i wasn't able to get to my driveway or get in. The brakes were over powering my engine in 4wd and i was waking up the neighborhood since i have dual straight pipe and a 390 engine. I was pissed and my woke up from my noisy truck and my mom said she had some sand but i said it was the brakes. And sure enough i loosened the bleeders on the back brakes and i was fine and got to my driveway. Do i have frozen wheel cylinders or should i adjust the drum brakes? The front are disc and they were smoking the other day and i have rotor dust all over my rims. Any advice is welcome.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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Brake fluid does not freeze in Iowa if that is what you mean. Wheel cylinders seldom freeze up due to rust either, they usually just leak. If your rear brakes are dragging they need adjustment. If your front calipers are dragging they need cleaning and lubrication. Occasionally a piston will stick in the bore which means that you will need to replace the calipers. Always replace parts in pairs on brakes.
Posting Legend
Joined: Sep 2001
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Wheel cylinders would have to be in very bad shape to freeze in position. Covered with concrete or something. I have never seen it and I have done many hundreds of drum brake jobs. If they were locked in position fluid could still flow thru them out the bleeder.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Ohio
I've had both caliper pistons and wheel cylinder pistons seize up on my vehicles. My antique car and the RV. It seems to happen when it is't driven very often. Say less then 10 times a year for 6-7 years. The brake fluid gets moisture in it and rust in place. So now I change the fluid in them every third year and disassemble them after 5-6 years.
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Posting Guru
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From: lino lakes, mn
was it doinig it before the master change out? if not check the rod lenght against the old one if it was doing it before the change you got stuck brakesand need to redo them how about the e-brake cable?the fronts sound like sticky calipers the rears like to much adjustment
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Louisville,Ky.
Hold on there, before you do all of that. Did the brakes not drag before you changed the master cylinder? I have had to adjust the pushrod on the brake booster before on several vehicles because the casting on the new master cylinder piston was thicker and caused the piston to be partially pushed in all of the time causing the brakes to drag.
Try removing the master cylinder enough that you can get to the adjustable pushrod an adjust it in a couple of turns and see what happens. You will have to hold the part closest to the firewall to turn in the adjuster on the end.
Go a couple of turns at a time. When you bolt the m/c back up, see if it feels like the rod is pushing against the piston. It should just start to push right before it is flush against the booster.
Jimmy
Try removing the master cylinder enough that you can get to the adjustable pushrod an adjust it in a couple of turns and see what happens. You will have to hold the part closest to the firewall to turn in the adjuster on the end.
Go a couple of turns at a time. When you bolt the m/c back up, see if it feels like the rod is pushing against the piston. It should just start to push right before it is flush against the booster.
Jimmy
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: iowa
thanks lxman1, i bet that is the problem it is the only logical thing since all the brakes were dragging. i'm not sure how to adjust the booster pushrod but i can get it done in my auto class.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Louisville,Ky.
It's just a threaded end in the rod. Kinda like a bolt in a nut. You'll see what I mean when you get the m/c out of the way. And you won't even have to loosen the brake lines, they will move enough to get the m/c off.
Jimmy
Jimmy
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Albuquerque
You might be able to confirm the problem by just loosening the booster assemble and trying it. I wouldn't drive far or fast. I have heard of people making a spacer plate to fit between the firewall and booster to address this problem.