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One of you brilliant minds surely can help me. I just got my truck on the road after a year of repairs. $5K+. Anyway; rebuilt the whole brake system, IE: New Booster, M-Cylinder, Calipers, Brake Cylinders, Hoses, steel lines, etc. Have power bled, there is no-air. I have no real pedal presure until almost the end of the travel of the pedal. Any thoughts?? I have heard upgrading to 1-Ton booster and cylinder might work. Thanks for your help.
PS: My rear shoes are adjusted out as far as they will go!!
Still sounds like rear brake adjustment. Do the shoes drag just a little when you turn the wheels by hand? When you say the shoes are adjusted out as far as they will go what do you mean by that? Are the rear brakes assembled properly? Are all of the parts in place? Is the E-brake working properly?
I just changed the original M/C on my '73 last week and had no trouble. I think it is necessary to bench bleed it. Anytime I didn't do it I had spongy brakes and had to take it back off and bleed it right. Just a thought..
Thanks for the responses. At the time I installed the master cylinder I did bench bleed it. The rear shoes are installed correctly with all the proper parts. Has all new E-Brake cables, and the shoes and E-Brake are adjusted correctly. The shoes do make a dragging noise and I can get 2 full wheel spins with the drag.
Tell me more about this pin on the porportioning valve? Is it a bleeder screw like the rapps ABS valves or what? I did not see anything like this on my valve.
The adjustment rod between the booster and the master is supposibly pre-adjusted by A1-Cardone and should'nt have to be played with. Has anyone had to adjust theirs?
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
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