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I just bought a 71 f100 4x4 and I was told that it had a 360. the headers that were on it are shoot so I bought a set of headman's but the drivers side is hitting my driveshaft. the motor in the truck appears to be an FE its got 352 cast on the front of the block has anyone had this problem.
I can't help you much, but I can tell you this: The 352 on the front of the block tells me you ordered headers for the correct engine family. The 352 mark is pretty much standard for FE engines, especially for 352, 360 and 390 ones. The blocks for these are the same; the only differences are in the bore and stroke. So, if you ordered them for a 360, you ordered them correctly.
Next, do they fit the heads correctly? If not, then you got ones for a different engine - or you got poorly manufactured ones. I have heard this is not uncommon. However, if they seem to line up to the heads and block OK, then you probably got the ones for your engine.
Now as to them hitting the driveshaft, I do not know why. Perhaps you received headers for a 2x4 instead?
Hopefully, a 4x4er can help you out here.
they did fit the head good but I had to remove the front drive shaft to get them to fit and now there is no room to put it back on I checked with jegs and my local auto parts store and I got the right model number headers for a 4x4.
Sounds like you have the 1 out of 3 thats just don't work. I had same problem with 2 out of 3. Send them back, fork over the bucks for FPA and be on the road.
I bought a set of long tube headers for my 67 w/ 352, and The drivers side would not fit, It was rubbing on the floor pan of the truck, it was a good thing I had to replace the pan, because I had to cut the pan out for it to fit. I didn't have the problem of rubbing on the front driveshaft, but mine was wedged in between teh head, and the steering gear box. Most header companies have a technical Phone number you can call, my headers were Dynomax, so I called them, and they did there best to help me through it.
I have not bothered with headers yet because on my 1971 4x4 I know there is not enough room because my current exhaust barely clears the front drive shaft. I *think* the solution is to use a different transfer case other than the Dana 21 to get a different angle or a high pinion Dana 44 so the exhaust hangs below the driveshaft and not next to it.
There is also the possibility that the headers are wrong.
As in the wrong part #.
Remember, these are high production facilities and they don't require a BA in "Putting the right damn part in the right damn box".
Ok., I just got off the phone with Jegs. I was told the 500-89102 was the number (this number doesn't register on their site) that I needed and that it covered all the way to a 1 ton 4x4, BUT their site lists a 500-89120 for a 3/4 ton 4x4, BUT wait...There's more, also listed is a 500-89180 for 1/2 tons, but it didn't say anything about 2wd or 4wd.
yeah i ordered some headers for a stang 2 and when i got them the box said ford but i opened it and they were chevy headers. i bought a cam from mellings and it was the cheap one. i put it in and it loped like crazy so i had somebody call them and they said my cam was one step over stock, like an rv cam and that is not supposed to lope and have power at over 2000 rpms. so i believe they sent me the wrong cam in the cheap box. now i need a stall. and lower gears
I just wanted to update uguys on my progress. my local auto parts store ordrered me a set of flowtect headers and another set of headmans so we could compare them to make sure I got the right ones. the headmans were a perfect match with each other they must not fit my truck the flowtec's look like they are going to work I will keeep you guys posted.
ok here's the scoop I put the flowtech headers on and they fit great. But I would only recomend this project if you have a helper and a day to burn. on the drivers side you need to remove the clutch linkage that wasnt bad but on the passenger side I had to unbolt the motor mount and remove the piece from the frame that it bolts to and take off the starter but you also need to put these back on before bolting the header in place this is good to know ahead of time. Thanks for all of your help.