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replacing a head gasket

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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 12:43 AM
  #1  
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replacing a head gasket

i need to replace the head gasket in my 75 f 150 390.how would i go about doing this.i know you need to set the number 1 cylinder to tdc so you can remove the distrib out of the maniflod.is there any other tricks involved.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 01:12 AM
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From: iowa
the pushrods run thru the intake in case you don't know so make sure you take them out before you go prying on the intake.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 01:12 AM
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Hi,
Other than marking the position of the housing and rotor @ TDC, the only think that I can think of is to make sure that all mating surfaces are clean before reassembly, use name brand gaskets, and if it blew a head gasket, you may want to have the heads checked to make sure that they are not warped.
I do not have much experience with the FE engines so someone else may have some time saving tips for you.
Enjoy the site,
Jimmy
 
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 01:23 AM
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From: iowa
oh i for got to mention but the cork gaskets for the front and back of the intake are crappy. Yes the fel pro cork is crap so I would try some good rtv stuff.
 
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 01:35 AM
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All that has been said, PLUS...

For re-assembly:

Make certain that all the push-rods are placed back in the same order. Very Important!

Also, unless the engine was just rebuilt with little hours on it before the head gasket blew...It is pretty much mandatory to have the head checked for warp age.

It is a pretty simple process for replacing a head gasket…which turns out to be a nice PLUS for our type FE engines.

Good luck with it.


 
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 01:59 AM
  #6  
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replace both and do the valve seals also, and there is a oil limiting trick to limit the excess oil to the heads that i learned here that has done wonders for my oil pressure , good luck, bob
 
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Old Mar 4, 2004 | 10:02 AM
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yeah, dont use those cork oil seals, i just use RTV black sealant. its called even bead at napa. its better than the regular stuff and lasts thousands of miles. ive done it for years. good luck.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2004 | 11:53 AM
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Use the Permatex brand -----It's called The Right Stuff. I don't exactly know why but it seems to work better than normal Ultra Blue, Ultra Black or any of the Blue RTV etc. etc. It also sets up quicker and seems to remove easier when dissasembling parts. Oh and one other thing, I don't know about this but you wouldn't necessarily have to remove the intake to pull one head. Could just remove the pushrods unbolt the one side of the intake, unbolt the head and before reasembly make sure the intake to head sealing surfaces are clean. Again this probably isn't recommended but a guy told me he did that once to replace a cracked head on a 390.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 10:28 PM
  #9  
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MR.gas houg,you can replace 1 head gasket as discribed I have done it more than once.I may be a little funny,but you said head gasket.You know that there are two heads?One thing that dosen't "go out"is a head gasket there are only a few things that will cause a head gasket to fail;severe over heating,craked head or block,running straight water(corosion)or improper installation.I would be intrested in knowing how you came up with "head gasket"
 
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Old Mar 5, 2004 | 11:55 PM
  #10  
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What I think Tom is trying to say is, it's a good idea to get the head milled and checked out at the machine shop before reinstalling it. Which is correct.

That being said, head gaskets, just like any other gasket, can and do fail without necessarily overheating the engine.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2004 | 12:00 AM
  #11  
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how good ar Mr. Gasket gaskets, ive never used them before till now, i bought the full set for my 390 and im about done putting it togather, i know you have to use extra sealer on the back of the mainfold to make it seel good to the block but is there any other tricks to be sure the back of the intake wont leak when done.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2004 | 03:21 PM
  #12  
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"That being said, head gaskets, just like any other gasket, can and do fail without necessarily overheating the engine."

Correct. There are several ways for a head gasket to blow.

1. Compression between cylinders - will result in a bad miss and both cylinders showing low compression.

2. Water jacket to outside - rare, easy to spot from coolant leak.

3. Compression to water jacket - most common, and the most dangerous. Water in oil, compression in cooling system. Will cause overheating and bearing failure due to oil being contaminated. Can cause a bent rod due to compression lock on startup.

Head gaskets can fail because they weren't correctly torqued on installation. They may last years in this condition, then fail if the engine is romped on. I had this exact thing happen on a 352 years ago. Just put on 4V manifold and carb - took it out, and really nailed into it. Blew a head gasket - water in oil. No overheating, no warped head, just a tired old gasket that likely was incorrectly torqued.
 
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