Well I'm new to this site but heres my prob. just got a 1990 i6 fuel injected 5 speed stick it had a huge bucking prob. so I thought maybe fuel replaced the reg. and no help checked vac lines found the PCV line to be shot but still no help, so I disconnected the IAF sensor and it ran alot better after warm up but still had a small surge, thought the timing might have been a little off, so lossened and turned the Dist. and it stalled, now it won't start and I have no fire at the plugs could this be the pickup are is there a master fuse under the hood that could cause this? with Ign. on I have current at both sides of the coil and two wires at the pickup connector

Thanks for any help

 

I've had similar problems out of my 95 fuel injected F-250. I tried all the simple stuff, fuel filter, regulator, cap and rotor, all of which helped but didn't entirely fix it. I ended up at AutoZone one day and had the guy test it for sensor codes since I was there but didn't expect to find much since the check engine light had never come on... Boy was I wrong. I had several bad sensors, exhaust gas, and a couple of others too plus it said the EGR was bad. After I changed that stuff it ran fine. The EGR was really bad, full of carbon, completely clogged. Also, if it's been running badly for a while you may want to check your injector ports, you'ld be surprised by the carbon build up you can find there. Since it's dead in the water it sounds like your just out of time badly. Have you got fire at the plug? If so I would either return the dist. to it's original pos. and try there (probably did that though already) so you may need to just start from TDC and go from there. I actually haven't messed with the timing on this 95, but if it's like most late models you probably just freaked out the computer by changing the timing. Follow the timing directions there under the hood, disconnect the sensors, time it to where it says then kill it, undo the battery, plug in the sensors, reconnect the battery and start it. It should take care of itself from there.

 

Oops, didn't realize you said no fire at the plugs... yes, check the fuse panel for an IGN fuse, should be there in the main fuse panel. You may pull the cap and just check the condition of the cap and rotor, and check to see that the rotor doesn't turn indicating you may have sheared the pin in the drive gear on the dist. if the engine backfired when it stalled (sounds dumb but it's happened to me) If all is go then you may want to have that module tested, I can't imagine that just changing the timing would have knocked it out but it is 14 years old...

 

Thanks, put the timing back, one thing I failed to mention - the ign. module was a little loose seems prev owner broke off a bolt so it moves up and down some could it hav shorted the module out?

 

new cap and rotor, rotor turns with engine, checked coil per Chilton specs. and it seems fine removed dist. and cleaned pickup and replaced broken bolt on mod. still notta

Thanks

 

it could have caused it to lose it's ground, and maybe arc which set off that fuse.

the EGR can cause bucking. Try disconnecting the EGR and see if the problem goes away. If it does, the popular thing to do around here is make a block off plate with a small "bleed through" hole in it. I did this, and it completely solved the bucking issue.

 

Hmmm, the loose module is concerning... ford recomends a healthy bit of lithium grease in there and if your connection was loose it may have let it arc as rhetor said. I would pull it and have it tested, most parts stores can do it with a special machine or someone that knows what they're doing can do it with a good tester. Either way it sounds worth looking into. I had the same prob with a module on a 2.8 a few years ago, thing just backfired one day and that was it, took a while to track it down too and it ended up being that module.

 

disconnected EGR still no help, I let the engine warm up and disconnected the idle air sensor and it ran alot better min. bucking
will check fuse and mod. tonight is there a way to check the mod. without taking it to parts store?

Thanks

 

Come to think of it it knocked out the pickup coil also, if I remember right I could buy a complete rebuilt distributor with the pick-up coil cheaper than the pick-up itself. But yeah, I don't know which went first but they were both bad.

 

Your chilon's may tell you how to check that module... I've seen it down with a good Fluke tester, but I have no idea how to do it. Could be a bad Oxygen sensor or something, nothing major enough to light up your check engine light, but it will probably bring up a code if tested.

 

only parts store near me has nothing but teens working there so no help testing it at the store, went in to buy fuel pressure reg. and they tried to sell me man. fuel pump, HAHA

 

Ouch, I got the same problem here man. My neighbor got so mad at them one day for ordering him the wrong stuff that he asked them for an upper radiator hose for a 60's model VW Bug, and left after they told him that he couldn't find that part anywhere in stock. HAHA

 

Check some simple stuff. EECIVs have a power relay . If it's not closing the computer kills the spark. Had this on my 88. It's really strange. If you pull the SPOUT plug, then the spark is there, but when you connect it, the computer kills the spark.

Turning the distributor should not have killed the spark -- just moved it.

How are you checking for spark? -- shorting the plug is not safe.
Put a timing light on the coil lead, and you can see if anything is firing.

Good luck