When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i used the standard 4 piece on mine . the oil pan was easy on mine i just remove the 2 nuts for the motor mounts drop the exhaust and it pulled right out i already had the engine apart so it went a lil faster. had to remove the dang drag link and tie rod link to get the engine to jack up now i cant get the dang drag link to go on the pitman arm my friend bend it to far out .
I myself don't like to apply the one piece gasket to the pan since it has the small pieces that need to seat in and around the cap.
When you buy the one piece gasket it will come with four plastic screw in studs that collapse. The studs hold the gasket in place in fur places and the studs since they collapse they will also allow you to install the pan over the studs as well. This also holds the pan up. Then just install the bolts.
Originally posted by bigbadjs My oil pan is starting to rust underneath. It's not leaking yet, but I'm not relishing this job if it ever comes up.
I heard somebody used JB weld to fix his pinhole leak from the oil pan.
Originally posted by Nutter Well here's what I did on my old Bronco.
Drain oil pan and leave plug out, clean off oil from rusted area with brake cleaner. Wipe area down real good . Give the area a small burn with a propane torch (thats why you leave the plug out) the burn gets rid of the oil thats soaked in to the pitting. Sand area and clean up again with brake cleaner. Apply a coat of JB Weld over affected area let cure overnight sand smooth and paint. Reinstall plug, fill with oil.
It's been 6 years, and the rest of the truck is rotted out, but the oil pan still doesn't leak and my JB patch and paint looks as good as the day I put it on.
how bad was it weeping before you patched it? Mine is so bad that I can actually press in on the spot where it is weeping and feel the metal flex. I don't want to push too hard to it will be a real hole.
I ordered a pan and when it gets here I'll just replace it.
I got a good look at my pan today ,i was thinking about using the jb weld until i saw that there was 6 big spots ,3 were leaking,and 2 were as bad as karl's.i'm in for some fun. Picked up oil pump today at canadian tire ,$45.00 with tax. They had to order pan,$80. plus tax, &1 piece gasket $38.60 plus tax.thanks for all the info, this is a excellent site.had to park her in the garage today .Have to use the ol' ladies olds' to get some parts and my buddy Al, for some help.I will let you all know how i make out. Earl 93'f150 xlt 5.0.
I replace my oil pan on 1995 two years ago, even with the 300 in there and a manual trans it was a tight squeeze to get it out, maybe because it is so much longer than your guys V8's. I had to remove my trans mount too. I had a jack under the trans with a block of wood. I had my trans all that way up against the cab. Reason I replace my pan was because it rusted through really bad. It was leaking because there where rust bubbles all over every inch of it.
how bad was it weeping before you patched it? Mine is so bad that I can actually press in on the spot where it is weeping and feel the metal flex. I don't want to push too hard to it will be a real hole.
I ordered a pan and when it gets here I'll just replace it.
It wasn't that bad, It was just porous in one small area but I cleaned an area of rust about the size of my hand, and sealed the whole are up.
I think with yours flexing like that you'd best stick with the replacment pan, 60 mph a bouncing stray rock could really put you in a pickle at this point
I think with yours flexing like that you'd best stick with the replacment pan, 60 mph a bouncing stray rock could really put you in a pickle at this point
Speaking of that, has there ever been any thoughts of tacking a piece of plate steel to the bottom of the oil pan to act as a somewhat "skid plate"? I am not looking at using this to rest my truck on or drag over rocks, but to help keep anything that may kick up, like small rocks and scrub when on trails. Since I am changing my pan out, thought this might be something to add to help protect the thing.
Has anyone ever tried "por15"? I've seen it work on other rusted body parts, but haven't heard it used on an oil pan. My 90 f150 5.0 pan is pretty rusted, but so far no weeping. Lets see what this New Hampshire winter has to say about that.
Mark
The POR15 is good stuff but my fear with an oil pan is there always seems to be a soft spot in the pan and POR will not support the oil like the pan will and if you don't get good adhession the oil will just leak out any ways.
I would cover the rust up with grease. This will keep the water and salt from getting to the rust that is already there.
Like I said, its not leaking yet, but anything I can do to prolong its life is helpful. I have sprayed it with wd40, but that didnt seem to last too long. Im a little afraid to poke it to find a soft spot, that seems like asking for trouble. I can just see my finger going right through!
Anyone try a marine replacement pan? Rusted pans are a big problem on boats, so they make them stronger and coat them better. Or are the current replacement pans for our trucks good enough?
Your worried about a Portsmouth winter!? Im up a bit further north, well al little beit anyhows, about 1/2 hour north of concord, and im PRAYING my pain will make it to spring, i dont want to do it in the middle of the winter not any fun, plus id rather not work on things of that nature in the winter too cold out.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.