Hi All,

Has anyone done this? I know for a fact that one of mine is shot.. but I am going to replace them both... Along with my Radius Arm Bushings...

How hard is it? Time consuming I am sure... I know on my 1970 F-100 2wd it wasn't bad because I would just drop the whole axle out and head over to the press to install the bushing.... but I don't see that happening this time... and well.. I don't have access to a press anymore.. My Ford manual shows this funky "ON-Truck" press thingy...

Any info is welcomed!

Thanks!

 

Not that difficult, at all, as I recall. I used an impact wrench to zip the nut loose..... it came off easily as it had been soaked with leaking oil and power steering fluid for years. With the front end up on jack stands (supporting the frame), I used a pry bar to lower the TTB arm downward. Use a 3/8" drill to drill cores of rubber out of the old bushing (making it easy to remove). I replaced mine with a polyurethane one, so it simply tapped back into place. A factory rubber one shouldn't be that bad, though, as I'm thinking that they have an outer metal sleeve. Hope this helps!

 

yea, its a much easier job then i thought it would be. support frame, remove tire, remove bolt, pry traction beam down, smacked out rubber real easy .. with a hammer i believe, but it mighta been a simple c clamp. didnt take much pressure. to remove outter sleeve might be a little more work, but i bought poly bushings, and just reused the metal sleeves in there, rahter then chizel one out to have to force one in. all in all, with the usual bsing, took us maybe 3-4 hours. that included a snack break inbetween sides too,, i believe.

 

Yes, I have replaced the axle pivot bushings(apb) and radius arm bushings(rab) on my 84 Bronco. It's not difficult, but is a PITA! To get to the apb's, I used a floor jack under the axle half-beam and another jack under the hub on the end of that beam, with the tire removed. This gave me the leverage to raise or lower the beam while still on the truck. The apb is held in by one bolt, then the fun starts. The procedure is detailed in the Haynes manual, and it gives the numbers for the special tools needed to remove the apb from the end of the axle beam. Problem is, NOBODY had the tools anywhere! The apb is pressed in, and it may be possible to drive it out with an air chisel or large punch and a sledge hammer. This will destroy the apb, and possibly the mounting hole in the axle beam. I needed to re-use the metal sleeve from my original ones, and insert poly bushings, so I made my own "tools". A flat metal plate with a hole or two in it, an 8" long piece of all-thread, and a 2-1/2" pipe collar. You basically insert the all-thread thru the hole in the apb, place the pipe collar over the opening on the side where it comes out (with the lip), and place the metal plate over the collar. Insert the all-thread thru all of this and secure with washers and nuts. Tighten as much as it will go, the tap with a hammer. Voila! The apb pops right out. THis tool is then used to install the new apb by revesing the pieces.

 

Justshootme84,

The "Tool" you made pretty much describes the one used in the Ford Manual. I was thinking of whipping one up myself



As Far as the Poly bushings go... don't they provide a stiffer ride?

 

Yeah, it doesn't take a rocket scientist to fab something up to get 'er done!!!

I have used poly bushings on several trucks and suv's in the past along with my current 84 Bronco and 98 Z-71. I don't believe they make the ride that much "stiffer", but they definitely make the ride more "stable" and improve handling. I do not like being thrown about in the cab when four-wheeling, or having to fight with the steering wheel. Your shock selection will affect how "firm" the ride is the most, IMO.

 

I just did my RAB and I was looking at the APB... guess thats next... Oh the FUN...