Ford 9 Inch Rear
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Warrenton, VA
Ford 9 Inch Rear
'79 F-150 2WD 302 4-spd O.D.
Anyone ever rebuild or work on a 9 inch rear?
Seems like they have 3 different types....basically differences in axle bearings. Anyway, I've got tapered roller bearings on mine. Will have the machine shop press on the new ones..but heres the question I have. The new bearings have the cup/bearing race on them. When you remove the axle from the housing the cup is usually left inside the housing. When you install the new bearings is the cup left on the bearing, or do you remove it and install it into the housing first.
Hope all that makes sense
WrenchHead
Anyone ever rebuild or work on a 9 inch rear?
Seems like they have 3 different types....basically differences in axle bearings. Anyway, I've got tapered roller bearings on mine. Will have the machine shop press on the new ones..but heres the question I have. The new bearings have the cup/bearing race on them. When you remove the axle from the housing the cup is usually left inside the housing. When you install the new bearings is the cup left on the bearing, or do you remove it and install it into the housing first.
Hope all that makes sense
WrenchHead
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From: West Kentucky
Yeah, it makes sense if I follow your post correctly. Their are 2 differant types of axle bearings. The one that is called the old style, the one with the bearing cup left in the housing after removing the axle, and the new style, the one that is a one piece bearing that is pressed on to the axle and comes out toghether. If the bearings have never been replaced, you probably have the old style. I had my whole rearend apart and took a rebar roughly long as the axle and drove the cup out from the center, some people use a torch and burn them out. Basically you just have to remove the old cups from the housing and the old bearing from the axle, press your new bearings on, then drive the axle back in. Hope this clarifys things!!!!!!!!
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From: Warrenton, VA
ok.
I'm pretty much good to go up to installing the axles. I wasn't sure if the cups to the new bearings had to be removed before you could install the axles. Been working on it today, so far got the axles and carrier out. Been taking pics with the new digital cam. That old fluid is pretty nasty
WrenchHead
I'm pretty much good to go up to installing the axles. I wasn't sure if the cups to the new bearings had to be removed before you could install the axles. Been working on it today, so far got the axles and carrier out. Been taking pics with the new digital cam. That old fluid is pretty nasty
WrenchHead
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From: CT
Just a note, be careful when installing the axleshafts, i pinched a seal and it starting leaking fluid like a siv, had to have the brand new seal/bearing replaced again cause of the torn seal, supposedly they break the bearing when they press it off...kinda sucked...
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Hampstead, NC
Yep, only 2 different bearing that I know of(on the axle), the tapered roller bearing and the sealed ball bearing. If you are using tapered bearings again, the race is pressed (driven) into the housing first. I have the rear in my 2wd torn down right now to just a bare housing in the truck(gear failure). I'm going to have new bearings/seals installed on the axles before they go back in. Also, make sure to clean the housing out real well before re-assembly.
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From: Warrenton, VA
Ford 79 ?
The new tapered roller bearings come with the bearing race on them, not like ordinary bearings...the race just slides off. This race almost seems to be pressed on pretty tight. Now unless I misread, you're saying to remove the race, and install it into the housing first? Makes sense to me, but that's why I've been posting. Not sure if that bearing is supposed to come apart or not. All of the shop manuals I've read(chilton, and ford) don't say anything other than pressing new bearings onto the shaft
WrenchHead
The new tapered roller bearings come with the bearing race on them, not like ordinary bearings...the race just slides off. This race almost seems to be pressed on pretty tight. Now unless I misread, you're saying to remove the race, and install it into the housing first? Makes sense to me, but that's why I've been posting. Not sure if that bearing is supposed to come apart or not. All of the shop manuals I've read(chilton, and ford) don't say anything other than pressing new bearings onto the shaft
WrenchHead
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Hampstead, NC
If the race won't come off easily, I'd leave it on and just install the axle. I haven't bought the bearing for my axle yet so I'm not sure what they look like. I believe if the bearing halves are "stuck" together it's a ball bearing type, not a tapered roller type. I'm not positive of this though, I'll be going to the auto parts store tomorrow to get new bearings. I'll let you know what I find. Put a few pics up in your gallery and I'll take a look at what you have.
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From: Warrenton, VA
Ok, Got a couple of pics of the seals and bearings in my gallery. They're definately taperd roller bearings. They were also pressed on today, should be ready to go into the axle hopefully soon. The old bearing race came out pretty hard, so hopefully it'll be aight getting everything back in.
WrenchHead
WrenchHead
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From: Warrenton, VA
Well guys,
according to a guy I work with who has rebuilt a couple of 9 inch rears in his 23 year career, says that the axles are installed with the new bearings and race still attached. Once the splines on the axles are started, you tap the axle in and then torque the retainers. Sounds easy........haha
Supposedly the new bearings/race go in easier than pulling out the old races from the housing.
Will find out sunday afternoon or monday when I'll be putting it together
WrenchHead
according to a guy I work with who has rebuilt a couple of 9 inch rears in his 23 year career, says that the axles are installed with the new bearings and race still attached. Once the splines on the axles are started, you tap the axle in and then torque the retainers. Sounds easy........haha
Supposedly the new bearings/race go in easier than pulling out the old races from the housing.
Will find out sunday afternoon or monday when I'll be putting it together
WrenchHead
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From: NC
Dude, if you are installing the bearings that were in the picture, with an axle housing that still has tapered races installed, something will break. The tapered races that used to be used a while back HAVE to come out in order to use the newer bearing/race combo. I tried doing the "engage the splines and use the retainers" thing and broke a whole bunch of money in parts.
If the tapered retainers are present, they must go. Good news is the newer style bearings have a much better wear life and load bearing.
Dan Q
If the tapered retainers are present, they must go. Good news is the newer style bearings have a much better wear life and load bearing.
Dan Q
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Midvale, Idaho
I put those new type bearings on my 79 Supercab in 1998 and have had no trouble except for one seal leaking while I was stationed in Germany. Since I didn't have time to order the parts as the truck was to be shipped back to the states in a few weeks, i silaconed the daylights out of it and hoped it worked. It did and is still holding today.
From what I remember of the job, I took the old races and bearings out. Had to cut them off with a dremel. Bent one guys press. I don't remember the exact procedure though. I think Timkin was the brand I used.
From what I remember of the job, I took the old races and bearings out. Had to cut them off with a dremel. Bent one guys press. I don't remember the exact procedure though. I think Timkin was the brand I used.
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From: Warrenton, VA
Well...good news.
Just for the record, the new bearings are identical to the old ones...tapered roller, but the race to the new bearings were attached.
The bottom line is.....that everything went in the way it should. The guy I work with was correct, the new bearing and race go right in....had to use a rubber mallet for a little assistance. Went for a few mile road test...looks good so far.
WrenchHead
Just for the record, the new bearings are identical to the old ones...tapered roller, but the race to the new bearings were attached.
The bottom line is.....that everything went in the way it should. The guy I work with was correct, the new bearing and race go right in....had to use a rubber mallet for a little assistance. Went for a few mile road test...looks good so far.
WrenchHead
