Driveshaft Play
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From: South Bend
Driveshaft Play
How much should the front driveshaft be able to rotate with the hubs locked? I've got a front end vibration that is driving me crazy. I just had the front driveshaft rebuilt and balanced and it hasn't solved it. When I grab the driveshaft I can rotate it about 1/8 of a turn freely before it stops. Anyone have any ideas?
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From: South Bend
When I had the front driveshaft out it didn't do it. I locked the hubs so everything else was turning and didn't have any noticeable vibration. I figured rebuilding the driveshaft would fix it. It doesn't happen without the hubs being locked so it's something between the transfer case and the differential that's causing it. It could be something was vibrating when I had the driveshaft out but it didn't transmit it to me because the suspension softened it up. It doesn't matter if it's in 4 wheel drive or not, it's there whenever the hubs are locked.
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From: NJ
an 8th of a turn sounds reasonable to me. take the drive shaft out and rotate it 180 degrees and maybe this will solve your vibration problem. are you sure the shaft doesnt have a slight bend in it where you or someoneelse may have hit something and bent it or dented it or even knocked the weights off of it?
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From: South Bend
I'll try rotating it. There was a bend in it, but the machine shop straightened it and rebalanced it. Normally I'd question if they did a good enough job, but this place is excellent. I do have a 4" lift on it and was almost wondering if maybe I'm damaging it by not having a lengthened shaft. I know you shouldn't need to with only a 4" lift, but I've seen weirder things. At this point I"m grasping at anything.
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For the out of phase condition, how would this happen with a rebuilt and balanced driveshaft (hope everyone doesn't think that's a stupid question)? I've done a lot of work over the years and no one has ever really explained this to me very well. I know if you're just dropping it and reinstalling it it's very important to get it back in the same way, but I thought that was just due to the parts wearing from use. The other thing I noticed was when I apply the brake and I'm coming close to a dead stop I can hear what sounds like the brake clicking. I'm almost wondering if I have a seriously bad wheel bearing. I'm going to jack it up in a couple of days (supposed to warm up here over the weekend) and check it out and probably change the bearings.
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From: South Bend
I checked the fluid levels in the transfer case, the front and rear differentials and checked the wheel bearings. While I was looking at all that I noticed there was some play in the tie rods. It amazes me because I just put a lift in a few months ago and they were fine. But I think that's where it's coming from. Once I get a chance I'll be changing all the steering components from the pitman arm to the knuckle and the wheel bearings.
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From: South Ga
It's simple to check if the driveshaft is in phase. You might be suprised at some work done my some shops........even driveshaft.
2 u-joints are in-phase if they are fitted to yokes that are fixed on the same shaft, such that the 2 opposing bearing caps in the u-joint that are held captive by the yoke on the shaft (the inboard yoke's u-joint caps) are both in the same orientation.
So it could be 90* out of phase after they completed their work.
Have you always had the problem, or just since the lift.. My other concern would be improper geometry, or angle, of the driveshaft with the lift installed, possible incorrect instulation of the lift could be the problem. Even with the cv type joint in the shaft, the angle can be wrong causing viberation - bad viberation.
2 u-joints are in-phase if they are fitted to yokes that are fixed on the same shaft, such that the 2 opposing bearing caps in the u-joint that are held captive by the yoke on the shaft (the inboard yoke's u-joint caps) are both in the same orientation.
So it could be 90* out of phase after they completed their work.
Have you always had the problem, or just since the lift.. My other concern would be improper geometry, or angle, of the driveshaft with the lift installed, possible incorrect instulation of the lift could be the problem. Even with the cv type joint in the shaft, the angle can be wrong causing viberation - bad viberation.
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From: South Bend
"2 u-joints are in-phase if they are fitted to yokes that are fixed on the same shaft, such that the 2 opposing bearing caps in the u-joint that are held captive by the yoke on the shaft (the inboard yoke's u-joint caps) are both in the same orientation."
I'm not following what you mean by "in the same orientation."
I should have added to my previous post that the vibration I'm getting now happens with or without the hubs being locked. That is why I looked at wheel bearings and tie rods. I'm also going to get the tires balanced, but I know what that feels like and it doesn't really feel like it to me.
I'm not following what you mean by "in the same orientation."
I should have added to my previous post that the vibration I'm getting now happens with or without the hubs being locked. That is why I looked at wheel bearings and tie rods. I'm also going to get the tires balanced, but I know what that feels like and it doesn't really feel like it to me.
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Yeah, it has the dropped pitman arm. None of the tie rod ends have ever been changed. It's just time for it. All that hasn't been changed on the front end (for the wear items) are the ball joints, u-joints for the axles and the differential gearing. I'm slowly working my way through everything.
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Originally posted by jdgreen
All that hasn't been changed on the front end (for the wear items) are the ball joints, u-joints for the axles and the differential gearing. I'm slowly working my way through everything.
All that hasn't been changed on the front end (for the wear items) are the ball joints, u-joints for the axles and the differential gearing. I'm slowly working my way through everything.
Doing the same thing with mine, started with replacing the motor, and I got a long way to go
Steve
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So far I've replaced the engine, added headers and new exhaust, put in a 4" lift, painted it, had both driveshafts rebuilt and balanced, replaced every sensor, installed seats from a '97 Camaro, built and installed a center console, added a K&N Filtercharger, installed a Stull aluminum grill, installed a new stearing shaft and stearing gear box. Next step is the replacing the tie rods and ball joints. As my wife says I have a new truck.