G.p. Relay Bypass
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: S. Ontario
G.p. Relay Bypass
Where is that schematics I seen last mo. post somewhere?
My buddys 88/7.3i.d.i was bypassed 4 wks ago by ashop that claimed that as long as he heated for less than 10sec no prob.
Big PROPLEM! ain,t started since cold came(0)cel
Need to double check the hackers method on his wire harness and help him up & running.
LoudWayne
My buddys 88/7.3i.d.i was bypassed 4 wks ago by ashop that claimed that as long as he heated for less than 10sec no prob.
Big PROPLEM! ain,t started since cold came(0)cel
Need to double check the hackers method on his wire harness and help him up & running.
LoudWayne
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Did they bypass the relay or the controller. If they bypassed the relay then the wire to the glow plug harness would have to be very large to carry the current it needs to heat the glow plugs.
If they used a small switch the switch probably fried. To go that route I would use at least a #6 AWG wire and a switch rated for 60 amps.
If they bypassed the controller then the wire needed would be much smaller #14 AWG and a 15 amp switch. This is the way to go in my opinion.
The relay/controller is on the back of the intake manifold drivers side. It is a rectangular box with a lid that snaps off.
Once the lid is off you will see the relay with 4 terminals on the top of it, 2 large and 2 small.
The large terminals, one has a large wire connected to it that goes to the battery (this terminal should have battery voltage on it at all times), the other has a flat spring looking piece of metal that goes down to another terminal which is where the glow plug harness is connected (This terminal should have voltage on it when the glow plugs are energized)
Now the hard to explain part, the small terminals.
If the terminal that the flat metal strap was near you and on the right side, the small terminal away from you on the right side should have two wires on it. One goes to the ignition switch (should have battery voltage on it when the switch is on at all times) and the other goes down to the controller under the relay.
The small terminal near you and to the left should have one wire on it that goes down to the controller. This wire is the signal from the controller to turn the glow plugs on. It does this by going to ground and completing the circuit from the ignition terminal to activate the relay. If you hooked a wire to this terminal and ran it inside the cab to a switch, then took the other terminal on the switch and hooked a wire from it to a good ground, when you flipped the switch the relay should close and energize the glowplugs.
One other thing to consider is that the glowplug controller actually cycles the glow plugs on and off normally.
At 35 F the glow plugs will cycle on and off for 15 - 30 seconds even though the wait to start light is only on for 5 - 12 seconds.
If they used a small switch the switch probably fried. To go that route I would use at least a #6 AWG wire and a switch rated for 60 amps.
If they bypassed the controller then the wire needed would be much smaller #14 AWG and a 15 amp switch. This is the way to go in my opinion.
The relay/controller is on the back of the intake manifold drivers side. It is a rectangular box with a lid that snaps off.
Once the lid is off you will see the relay with 4 terminals on the top of it, 2 large and 2 small.
The large terminals, one has a large wire connected to it that goes to the battery (this terminal should have battery voltage on it at all times), the other has a flat spring looking piece of metal that goes down to another terminal which is where the glow plug harness is connected (This terminal should have voltage on it when the glow plugs are energized)
Now the hard to explain part, the small terminals.
If the terminal that the flat metal strap was near you and on the right side, the small terminal away from you on the right side should have two wires on it. One goes to the ignition switch (should have battery voltage on it when the switch is on at all times) and the other goes down to the controller under the relay.
The small terminal near you and to the left should have one wire on it that goes down to the controller. This wire is the signal from the controller to turn the glow plugs on. It does this by going to ground and completing the circuit from the ignition terminal to activate the relay. If you hooked a wire to this terminal and ran it inside the cab to a switch, then took the other terminal on the switch and hooked a wire from it to a good ground, when you flipped the switch the relay should close and energize the glowplugs.
One other thing to consider is that the glowplug controller actually cycles the glow plugs on and off normally.
At 35 F the glow plugs will cycle on and off for 15 - 30 seconds even though the wait to start light is only on for 5 - 12 seconds.
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From: France
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: S. Ontario
Perfect, Magic
just what I had seen about a mo. B4 my bud had his harness butchered bya sub-contracter shop.
They assurred him that it was " O.K." as long as he did 10 sec heats. Now he has found 8 dead G.P.'s & they are replacing them at no cost yet We have to repair the chop job.
Will read & heed all threads re: G.Plugs, Relay & wireharness!!
Thanx Magic
& all who help Canadian Hillbillyz & their diezels!!
just what I had seen about a mo. B4 my bud had his harness butchered bya sub-contracter shop.
They assurred him that it was " O.K." as long as he did 10 sec heats. Now he has found 8 dead G.P.'s & they are replacing them at no cost yet We have to repair the chop job.
Will read & heed all threads re: G.Plugs, Relay & wireharness!!
Thanx Magic
& all who help Canadian Hillbillyz & their diezels!!
