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Bronco lift/Tires questions please!

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Old 12-23-2003, 09:56 PM
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Bronco lift/Tires questions please!

I would like to lift my 94 Ford Bronco EB with a 351 and AT. I now have no lift and 31 BF Goodrich ATs on Weld Racing 15 rims. I would like to do both a 6 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift. I won't be doing them both at the same time, however. If I do a body lift first, can I fit 35x12.5x15 Super Swamper SSRs without a problem? If so, what is the biggest tire that will fit with 3 inches of body lift? If I do the 6 inch suspension lift, how big can I go on tires? Eventually, I would like to sit it up on atleast 40s, or 44s.

Thanks for the help. Matt
 
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Old 12-23-2003, 10:22 PM
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With the 3" body alone, the biggest you'll be able to squeeze out of it is about 33X12.5.

With the 6" suspension, you'll get the 35's under it no problem. I would strongly advise against going the 38"+ route without a straight axle conversion. Pretty much guaranteed you'll be breaking parts daily, as the TTB 44 just can't handle that much rotating mass, not to mention braking problems.

I know that's probably NOT what you wanted to hear, so if you insist on going big; I'd say your best bet for ON -STREET driving ONLY would be the 6" lift and fender cutouts. With well-cut fenders and flares, you could probably get into the 39-40" range without too much trouble. The spots you will run into the rubbing when you go into the 35+ sizes are the front fender right behind the tire, the front bumper (regardless, will need to be spaced out, cut or replaced with something other than stock such as a smittybilt,) and the radius arms. Something also worth mentioning is with extended radius arms, the rubbing can be pretty bad if the rims are not offset enough.

I wouldn't really suggest going with the body lift. Broncos really aren't known for their superior handling (even with swaybars,) and 3" blocks will just make a mediocre situation worse. When I got my '89, it had 3" blocks under the back axle and with a swaybar, new tires, shocks, and a fresh alignment, it still handled like crap. I could only imagine a body lift would be even worse.
 
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Old 12-23-2003, 10:30 PM
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Thanks for the input. I don't want it for on road use only. I won't do major off roading and mudding with it, but I want to be capable to move up and over. I live in Indiana right now, and hopefully I will be in Wyoming this summer after graduation. I want something I can still get around on with not too many problems out there, even with the weather.
 
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Old 12-23-2003, 11:34 PM
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Rather than cutting fenders, there are custom flared fenders available made of fiberglass. Hoods too. If I were going to mangle the thing I would do that and save or sell the stock fenders. There a re hoods availlbe also that are lighter than stock and can reduce the front weight by 125 or so pounds. I've seen some good cut jobs with flares and I seen some real butchery.
 
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Old 12-24-2003, 02:01 AM
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This is by no means an endorsement. But this is something I would consider. The pair of fenders is not that much more than a bloody set of Bushwackers relatively speaking.

http://www.autofab.com/Bronco.htm

They even have a hood and quarters. I don't think the quarters are necesary though unless you bash yours. The hood would reduce some weight.

Regardless, the Bronco in the picture is worth taking a look at.
 

Last edited by rlh; 12-24-2003 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 12-24-2003, 11:38 AM
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If you want a 3" body lift just swap me the stock stuff off yours, and come to Muncie and help me take it off my 88 Bronco (includes the pieces to fill the gap between the front and rear bumpers).


Steve
 

Last edited by steell; 12-24-2003 at 11:42 AM.
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Old 12-24-2003, 11:40 PM
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Originally posted by _GEEZER_
With the 3" body alone, the biggest you'll be able to squeeze out of it is about 33X12.5.

With the 6" suspension, you'll get the 35's under it no problem. I would strongly advise against going the 38"+ route without a straight axle conversion. Pretty much guaranteed you'll be breaking parts daily, as the TTB 44 just can't handle that much rotating mass, not to mention braking problems.

I know that's probably NOT what you wanted to hear, so if you insist on going big; I'd say your best bet for ON -STREET driving ONLY would be the 6" lift and fender cutouts. With well-cut fenders and flares, you could probably get into the 39-40" range without too much trouble. The spots you will run into the rubbing when you go into the 35+ sizes are the front fender right behind the tire, the front bumper (regardless, will need to be spaced out, cut or replaced with something other than stock such as a smittybilt,) and the radius arms. Something also worth mentioning is with extended radius arms, the rubbing can be pretty bad if the rims are not offset enough.

I wouldn't really suggest going with the body lift. Broncos really aren't known for their superior handling (even with swaybars,) and 3" blocks will just make a mediocre situation worse. When I got my '89, it had 3" blocks under the back axle and with a swaybar, new tires, shocks, and a fresh alignment, it still handled like crap. I could only imagine a body lift would be even worse.
WRONG
you can fit those tires stock, of you shim out the bumper. The rear will fit a 34 in there stock no problem. you can run a 35 with a 3 inch lift. you may get some rubbing issues, but you can do it.
And do you seriously still have your rear sway bar? there is no need for it. here is a link with all you need to know about sway bars https://www.ford-trucks.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5409 ok now how big of a tire can you run with 9 inches of lift? i have a budy with an 93 or so F150 with a 6" and a 3" and he runs 40" swampers. but this is very damaging to the vehicle, he wishes he stuck with the 36"s or 38"s he had on it befor, can't remember which it was.
So you can run a 35 with a three inch body lift. they will be tight, but they will go. my friends 95 bronco with a 6" and a 2" on 35" tires looks awsome, and drives pretty good. A bronco isn't a race car, so the issue of superior handleing doesn't realy matter. one thing to remember, is that a body block is a weak point between the body and the frame. if i were you, i would go for the three inch, then put the 35's on untill you can afford the 6 inch, then when you see what its like ridding at that hieght, you can maybee borrow a set of 40's and decide weather or not that is what you want, and if it is, then i would suggest a SAS first
 
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Old 12-25-2003, 12:18 PM
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juice is right. you can fit 35's with 3 inches no prob. with no lift you can fit 32's with no rub and 33's with only a little rub.
 
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Old 12-25-2003, 04:40 PM
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First of all.... FORGET the body-lift. That is a BIG waste of money. Though you will be able to fit 35" tires with a 3" lift.

I suggest you go with a 8" Suspension lift from Superlift. RUn extended radius arms from Rancho, Stainless steel Brake lines, Enkie 15x12 truck wheels, As for tires I suggest 38"x14 BFG Mud-terrains.

This set-up will yield you a big yet capable off-road truck/ a liveable daily driver.

Hope This Helps!!!!
 
  #10  
Old 12-25-2003, 05:47 PM
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Originally posted by bronco351
First of all.... FORGET the body-lift. That is a BIG waste of money. Though you will be able to fit 35" tires with a 3" lift.

I suggest you go with a 8" Suspension lift from Superlift. RUn extended radius arms from Rancho, Stainless steel Brake lines, Enkie 15x12 truck wheels, As for tires I suggest 38"x14 BFG Mud-terrains.

This set-up will yield you a big yet capable off-road truck/ a liveable daily driver.

Hope This Helps!!!!
I'd love to do that, but as a HS Senior with only a part time job, I can't afford to put a $1000+ lift on with another $1500 in tires and wheels. I am looking to start with a body lift, and the biggest tires I can fit, then by spring add a 6" suspension lift.

With a 3" body lift, where are the 35"s going to rub at? Front and rear tires, or just one? Thanks to everyone for the info.

Matt
 
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Old 12-25-2003, 06:10 PM
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Matt,

If money is an issue, I would consider 32 or 33" tires since they are less likely to break things. Get some 2" or 2.5" springs for the front with superlift dropdown axle pivots for camber adjustment and add a leaves for the back.

You've heard the maladies of the 3" body lift. The above can be done for 350 or less. shocks may be needed.

You could get some tire wheel package deals for 15X8 or 15x10 wheel tire combos from $518 to $875.

I no 38" are impressive when you are 17. But you have to take into account your stock diffs, & gears . We won't even mention lockers. They aren't obvious on a stock looking rig but dramtically improve the "go" factor.

If you are set on body lift, go with 2". Keep in mind the potential issues with automatic tranny.

If you tried real hard, I think you could do it the way I'm suggesting for $1000 and be impressed with what you can do.

 
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Old 12-25-2003, 06:58 PM
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Originally posted by rlh
Matt,

If money is an issue, I would consider 32 or 33" tires since they are less likely to break things. Get some 2" or 2.5" springs for the front with superlift dropdown axle pivots for camber adjustment and add a leaves for the back.

You've heard the maladies of the 3" body lift. The above can be done for 350 or less. shocks may be needed.

You could get some tire wheel package deals for 15X8 or 15x10 wheel tire combos from $518 to $875.

I no 38" are impressive when you are 17. But you have to take into account your stock diffs, & gears . We won't even mention lockers. They aren't obvious on a stock looking rig but dramtically improve the "go" factor.

If you are set on body lift, go with 2". Keep in mind the potential issues with automatic tranny.

If you tried real hard, I think you could do it the way I'm suggesting for $1000 and be impressed with what you can do.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will look into an add a leaf and 2 or 2 1/2 inch springs. I'm trying to find a set of used 33 or 34s, but I will probably have to buy new tires. I figured that if I'm spending a few hundred on new tires, I will wait a little longer and upgrade to atleast a 35".
 
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Old 12-25-2003, 07:29 PM
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Originally posted by 351Bronco
Thanks for the suggestions. I will look into an add a leaf and 2 or 2 1/2 inch springs. I'm trying to find a set of used 33 or 34s, but I will probably have to buy new tires. I figured that if I'm spending a few hundred on new tires, I will wait a little longer and upgrade to atleast a 35".
Matt,

35" tires will work on 15x10 rims. Also, when messing with coil springs, always use a spring compression tool. Borrow buy or steal one (just kidding) becuase those things can clobber you. Also remeber that 2 inch lift in the suspension will probably move the alignment. I wasn't completely accurate earlier...Superlift has adjustment bushings and Tuff Country has the alignment brackets for adjustments to 1.5 - 2.5 inches of lift.
35" tires is the limit on a relativel stock TTB suspension. If you have 4.1 ring & pinions in your diffs you will be o.k. 3.55/3.54 (rear/front) you will have potential problems.

 
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Old 12-25-2003, 08:01 PM
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can I fit 35x12.5x15 Super Swamper SSRs without a problem? Eventually, I would like to sit it up on atleast 40s, or 44s.

With the 35's driveability (read "handling") of the truck is going to suffer and with the 44's you can pretty well forget about the driveability of the truck. Keep in mind that short wheelbase+tall tires=easy rollover. (Trust me, nothing sucks more than looking at the earth from a 90degree angle thru the windshield and one of the side windows ) For a Bronco, with stock motor, and gearing, I would suggest going with a set of 33's (no lift needed) and focus on your driving skills. If you just have to go bigger, either the 3" body, or (my choice) a 4" lift with 35s will take you most anywhere you need to go and still keep the vehicle streetable. As for the 6" an up lifts, remember that with the short wheelbase, driveline angles can also become an issue.
 

Last edited by Breeze; 12-25-2003 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 12-25-2003, 08:24 PM
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I'll just say, that I am looking forward to taking the 3" body lift off my 88 Bronco.
 


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