thanks for the info guys but i still need more the 429 will go in a 2000 lb mud buggy it does not need to be street freindly just lots of tire spining power it is a4x4 with 37 in boggers . somone must have built one of these motores ? 500hp recipe would be good 600 would be better if i dont have to brake the bank to do it

 

ok, here goes.

stock block, 2 blt. mains, zero deck
early 460 crank, completely checked
SCJ rods, completely checked
keith black hyp. pistons, 1 valve relief
.550, .550, 225, 225 duration @.050 275, 275 adv. duration 112 lobe sep.
total advance in cam is 6*
Motorsport double roller timing chain
D0VE-C heads, milled .040, 2.19 intake valves, 1.72 exhaust valve
1.8 intake rockers, 1.73 exhaust rockers
SCJ pushrods
SCJ Weiand Stealth Intake
Dominator to square flange adapter plate
1050 dominator
3500 rpm stall converter

We actually run an 800 holley DP converted to single squirt with a spider(if you decide on thisoption, email CID473, and he'll show you how) This carburetor seems to limit our rpm capability, although the engine has seen 7200 rpm. The dominator would be the better option.

This combination is good for pushing a 5600 lb truck through 200 ft of mud in around 4 seconds flat. Think what it would do in that buggy!! It accelerates from an 800 rpm idle to 6000 rpm in around half a second, and really sets you back in the seat.

This engine figures to around 650 hp, for between $4k-$10K, dependant upon how much you do yourself, and how well you know your machinist.

 

A couple of comments on that combo:

If you mill those heads .040, you'll have to mill the intake manifold sides and bottom for proper alignment.

Most people I know who run hot 385s and everything I've read like about 10-20 degrees of additional cam duration and .010-.020 of lift on the exhaust side. I currently use .572/.586 and 235/242 @ .050. with 1.73 roller rockers.

Even if those heads are hogged out to where they'll flow 200cfm+ on the exhaust side with good, full-tube headers, that's not enough cam for a 1050 dominator.

You'll need custom, hardened push rods for almost any cam much above stock with guideplates and roller rockers. After you get the valve train mocked up, use a push rod length checker to determine push rod length. The SCJ cam was .506 lift.

I wouldn't risk running CJ or truck rods (DOOE/D6VE) above 7000rpm (that cam won't turn it anyway), actually I wouldn't go above 6500rpm when good aftermarket rods are nearly the same price as a refurbed set of CJs. Cheap insurance.

 

Quote "I wouldn't risk running CJ or truck rods (DOOE/D6VE) above 7000rpm (that cam won't turn it anyway)

FYI, the engine HAS been at over 7200 rpm, as verified by an Autometer tachometer's peak recall. The cam is small for a big block, but it is all about matching components. And I suppose your gonna tell me next that it won't rap that quick. Unless you know what your talking about, don' spout off. Sorry if this breaks the forum rules, but ive worked on the truck since it had a 400 in it, and I'll be glad to post video once the weather is warmer. And better yet, I wont even do it from the outside, ill show it lookin right at the tach!

One more thing. This is a Ford!!! You could put a Dominator on a mildly warmed over 429, and it could use it, and still ask for more.

 

I do know what I'm talking about. And I don't make marginal recommendations based on limited experience or one engine
to people when they're preparing to invest a decent piece of money in a performance engine.

I didn't say CJ, truck or stock productions rods wouldn't live at 7200rpm, I've seen them do it, and also seen them fail with explosive results. I said for about the same cost it was smarter to use aftermarket rods to protect the rest of the investment.

If you say you're turning 7200rpm under a load with that cam and cast pistons, more power to you. You're way out of the effective power band for those specs and I certainly wouldn't recommend those rpms reving it up without a load with cast pistons. It takes at least 265 degrees of duration at .050 and lift well over .600 with a solid lifter flat tappet cam to achieve a usable 7200rpm in a naturally aspirated 385. With a mechanical roller, over .700 lift but the ramp is better.

I've built a lot of mild, not-so-mild and assisted with a couple of wild 385s and other engines and everyone is entitled to their opinion of what works best in a particular application. My opinion is that 1050cfm annular boosters and mechanical linkage is too much carb for what's basically a hot street engine with 3500rpm stall. If you were talking a big mechanical roller with aftermarket heads to service a true 8000rpm engine at those cubes with a 5000rpm+ stall, that's Dominator territory.

Incidently, engines don't know who made them. I run Ford and Chevy modified big blocks and there's very little difference in performance levels between the two 'brands' when equal components are used on each engine.

 

i am here to inform you that you are totally wrong!!!!!! i have been running this combo that theregoestheneighborhood is refering to, this is actually my motor, he is my son. this combo has been in my truck for 5 years, and combo was ran two years prior in a friends truck. i dont care what flow numbers and printed data says you can or cant do, but what the combo does in the real world. my machinist guaranteed the low end to 8500 rpm, with this cam keeping it below 7200, and this is accomplished with a modified 800cfm holley flowing 960cfm. have tested combo with 1050 dom. and achieves 7800 with no problem, all while turning 38 in. boggers in a 200 ft. mud pit.

mark

 

As I said, to each his own.

 

Now, with all that said, let's discuss a more budget friendly 429 build; something that would still go down the street, but light the tires up when necessary and turn 33 - 38" mudders quickly enough to keep them cleaning out and maintain enough rev's to stay in peak HP range. That is what I am interested in.

 

Change converters, definately go with an 850 dp, don't mill the heads(as much), don't zero deck, leave the dizzy unlocked(for easier starting). Don't worry about all the extra cost of extra's, use parts off of ebay, or the local auto. recycler(a.k.a. junkyard), and check everywhere before deciding on a machinist, parts and everything.

 

What's the budget?

 

I am hoping to do it all for under 2,000. My block is good -- I am going to have it tanked and honed. My plan as of now is to use flat top TRW/Speedpro pistons, but am concerned about pinging with my heads (10.5 : 1 CR ). Problem? Or can I get away with this by adjusting timing? Fuel Consumption isn't a concern and this rig doesn't see much pavement; mainly gravel roads and pasture (mud, rocks, water).

 

I like that engine combo well enough I might build one like it. Was considering a 514 but have some of the 460 and CJ parts already Is your cam hydraulic or solid? What kind of ignition? What about the rockers? How can you get (8) 1.8's and (8) 1.73's? I've always bought rocker arms in sets of 16. What brand of rocker arms? What rpm do you shift at? Thanks in advance!!!!

 

Here's a link to an Excel spreadsheet with parts, part numbers, parts costs and shop costs for my last 460 build:

http://www.angelfire.com/realm3/geor...Build_Cost.xls

You can pick and choose parts for your application to build a budget.

Big problem with getting 500hp out of the 385 is heads. To do DOVE or earlier castings right to achieve that goal, they need some serious porting on the exhaust side to allow for some RPMs. Your rail rockers without guideplates are good for maybe low 5000 rpms and that's taking a chance. Original CJ DOOE heads with rail rockers, 5/16" hardened pushrods and guideplates were known for bending pushrods at 5600rpm. That means roller rockers, guideplates and 3/8" hardened pushrods, around $350 right there without the valve job and porting. $2k will be tight.

I run 11.0:1 c/r with aluminum heads (supposedly equal to 10.0:1 cast iron for detonation purposes), and there's no way the so called 91 octane with 10% methanol here will handle it regardless of how much I play with the timing. Bet thing you can do is make a friend at your local private airport and carry in five 5 gallon containers for their 100-octane for your 'off-road buggy'. That is if you can get through the Harley owners.

 

Ok, let's answer the questions in order.

Hydraulic, with anti pump-up lifters.

Ignition is a factory duraspark distributor, with an msd box that looks like a factory duraspark.

Unfortunately, you have to buy both sets of r/a in sets of 16, but it leaves you plenty of spares. They are harland sharps, and you will find the 1.8's are listed for a big block chevy. Shift rpm varies from 6000-7300 rpm, with the most consistent being between 6200-6300. Hope this answers your questions.

Also, 5/16 pushrods with .080 wall thickness work great, even at high rpm. We got ours from trick flow industries, through summit.

 

Very good reading and info!!!!!!!! I'm getting ready to run a 400 that I have previously built this year, however I have a 429 with DOVE heads that are already machined for screw in studs and guideplates and enlarged with CJ valves that is basically fresh from a previous project and only has about 30 minutes of run time. Also, since I built the 429 a few years back, I have came up with the CJ rods and heads. Thanks George and Neighborhood for the speedy post back.