Evaluating a 460 engine ?
First message on the site, been an admirer for some time and have finally located the truck I've dreamed about: 1979 F-250 with a 460.
I can barely afford it, but it's in Michigan and I'm in New York.
So here's my question:
Can you guys give any advice on what to ask regarding the quality or condition of a 460 with a 100,000 miles on it?
I've read here that 460's taken care of can go 200,000 plus.
I'm just another working guy - a general contractor - and I can walk you through and renovate every single thing in a house, but I'm embarassed to say I don't know my way around an engine. That will change!
But I'm just trying to avoid buying something only to find out its going to require a total rebuild or new engine - I don't have the money for that. I emailed the guy, he says the engine is stock and never had any changes.
I would like to upgrade the carb and put headers on it for starters, but not if the engine is bad to begin with.
If you guys were buying an old 460, what would you ask?
And if I decide to go look at it, other than checking the hoses and such, what kind of real tests can be done?
Compression?
Well, I can't thank you enough. I'm originally from Missouri, my grandpa only drove Ford, and I'm hoping to finally be a part of the family!
Sam
Good Luck
Last edited by olfordsnstone; Dec 21, 2003 at 01:19 PM.
Glad to have you.Another thing that you can check is to remove the pcv valve from the valvecover after it is good and warmed up. Look for blowby ( misty smoke coming out of the valvecover) Rev it up with it out. A fine mist(light smoke) is acceptable at 100,000 miles. If a lot comes out, it is the sign of the rings are weak and not sealing the cylinders as good as they should.
My 460 has over 180,000 and will still pull a house off of its foundation. It does use a little oil and has some blowby. It could use a freshening up, but I still wouldn't be afraid to drive it across the country.
Jimmy
I didn't know there were so many old Ford fans out there till I found this web site.
Good Luck in your decision. If you do go with the Older Ford, I'm sure we'll here from ya again.
Tim
there will be more repairs YOU Can do as opposed to the 93
the 79 is simpler, therefor easier to learn on
besides, you said the 79 was your dream truck.
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so someone put the motor in there, look out for any cut framerails to fit the exhaust manifolds.
Also, look out for bad motor mounts, and poorly done conversions. Also look out for rust, it is alot more common and severe in the older trucks.
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Another idea is to take it to a good mechanic shop to have it inspected prior to purchase. That's always an option.
Good Luck, Tim
Get what your heart wants or you'll never be happy, life is too short to put stuff off or P*SS Around with "make do/ settle for"!The 79 is the way to go, if it's all there & solid you can't buy a better FoMoCo Truck [in my stilted, prejudiced, convinced opinion].
Mechanical stuff is easily repaired, what's tough is when "Iron Termites" have eaten body & chassis parts! There's no-going to a wood yard & getting quarter sawn Locust plank to replace that rotted frame rail or cross member! No re-pouring a Cab Floor and so forth. I'll buy a wore out torn up 65/79 & rebuild it from scratch before I'll lay out a dime for anything else newer. My 88 F150 is about 1/2 what my 79 F150 was/is.
The newer a truck is the more parts will cost PERIOD! The breakpoint is 1980!
B4 1980 FoMoCo built their own trucks, their own way using their own parts. After 80 FoMoCo trucks start getting more like Brand X trucks. The newer they get the worse they are! I'll except that with the 04 F Series trucks because the jury is still out on them, in my view of things. The 2000 - 2003 trucks have worst crash rating ever achieved by a Pick Up truck, frames buckle behind the cabs causing the cab to crush in. 65s to 79s don't do that, and in truth niether do 80-99.
I can replace 100amp alternator on my pre 80's truck for $70 if it was a 35 amp I could replace it for $29.95. I just replaced 45amp Alternator on my 88 F150 and it cost me $120 with my discount! I can rebuild a manual new process, or eaton 4 gear by replacing bearings, thrust washers, seals, bushings & gaskets for under $200 in pre 80's F series Trux, but bearings alone for an 88F150 5spd/ O-D are $600 with my discount. . . . Need I keep going 0r say more? Everything costs more for 80's up trucks and IMHO they're a lot less truck to begin with, although bad as they seem to be, they have Brand X beat BIG time!
My 79 F150 4X2 SWB Styleside Trailer Special 460 w/ C-5 has a 66 F100 Body [cab nose & bed]. It's a mongerel of a truck, which I built to be what it is, for the road. It handles unbelievably well, it corners better than most cars. It turns mid 12's, @ 125+mph in 1/4mi. (it would be faster if I tuned suspension for drag racing, but) it's a road truck, remember?
SO!. . . my answer is there are no trucks after 1980. There are only expensive, disappointing, wannabee's that can't quite measure up to their predecessors.
Last point I run a D1VE Based 460. I can rebuild it twice for cost of rebuilding a Modular once, in trux today. Plus my 1971 Engine will last 2 to 3 X what modular engines last (about 100K). I had a D2VE 460 that I got 280K out of before it got tired. And a D3VE that has 220K on it now it still runs "purty good".
You hadda ask! . . . . . . . . .
FBp






