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I have a 1988 clubwagon XLT, with dual fuel tanks.
The front tank works firne but the rear tank works intermittently. It may work fine for 50 miles or so and then it just shuts down. After a short time, it works again but it may shut down after only a mile or two.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
The first thing to look for is a filter coming off the tank. Crawl up under there and look on top of the tank for a filter. If you find one, change it and see what happens.
Also check all of the hoses from the rear tank to the selector valve, or elec fuel pump if you have one. Make sure there are no kinks, and that the hoses are not spongy to the point that they are collapsing under suction from the fuel pump.
That is about the easiest to look for, if all else fails you may need to drop your tank and have it cleaned out, but it usually isn't that bad.
Keep an eye on the fuel tank level. I had a tank start getting flakey and found out the rear tank RETURN was dumping into the front tank! My 89 E-150 would run fine, but I had to watch the fuel level on the front tank so not to overfill it.
Turned out the selector valve had an o-ring go bad.
In your case it sounds like the in-tank pump is overheating and shutting down. Happened in my Mustang once.
My rear tank dumps it's return into the front tank now too, is a right PITA. There is a round black thing underneath with a whole bunch of connectors on it that it usually the culprit. I run my front tank till it's 3/4's full, then switch over to the back for a couple hundred miles, then switch back to my now full front tank.
There are small inline filters on the low pressure in-tank pumps, the main filter itself is a large canister attached to the frame, take the doghouse off, stuack your head down and look down the drivers side frame rail & you should see it.
Ford says it's maintenance free & will last the lifetime of the vehicle, yeah right.
I think I paid $70 for the part I needed, and it turned out to be a single o-ring that was dead. That "selector valve" is completely mechanically operated: no electric at all. If I recall the o-ring split and jammed the selector in one position.
You can probably get the o-ring from a blister pack.
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