I noticed that my oil filter is leaking. I just changed it about 2000 miles ago and am positive I installed it per directions, "turn on the threads until the gasket meets the base. Turn one full turn more then back off 1/8 turn. Yes back off 1/8th turn. Obviously this could be the reason for the leak, so I think I will tighten it up, but how much should I go??.

(As an aside: I have 70,000 on the truck now and have installed all my filters just like this and have had no problems until now.)

Is there a danger of ruining the threads on the filter base if I go another 1/8th or 1/4 turn (assuming that I don't need a breaker bar to get that far)? Any thoughts?

Thanks

Big

2000 F250 SD SC 5.4L Gasser
4.10s 4x4 L/S rearend
Western 7'6" plow
White with parchment cloth

 

Double check to make sure the old gasket came off with the previous filter. I have a 5.4 and have never had a leaking problem. You may just have to snug it up a bit as it may not have been as tight as you think it was. It would be very hard to strip the threads using a filter wrench....it would probably start to slip with the force it would take to strip the threads.

 

I tighten filters between 3/4 and 1 turn after the gasket contacts the sealing surface.If you don't have a double gasket situation and want to try tightening it back a bit,go with another 1/8 to 1/4 turn more clockwise.You could always just replace the filter.Pretty cheap and doesn't take long.

 

I don't know who came up with the "back off 1/8 turn" directions, but I've never seen that done. I've been changing my own oil since the local Pep Boys jerked me around and made me wait 2 hours for an oil change when I was 18. I've always just tightened it down about one full turn past initial contact and left it there. And I never had the luxury of a filter wrench. Good old sand paper and a strong grip gave me all the force I needed to install & remove even the most stubborn filters.

 

Like to add one more comment here if I may, put a little grease on the rubber gasket before you screww it on. This will help seal it and release it when you want to get it off. If you tighten that baby down too tight, they become a real bugger to get off. Snug, then maybe 1/2 turn like every body said.

 

>I don't know who came up with the "back off 1/8 turn"
>directions, but I've never seen that done.

I have been running Amsoil filters for about 50,000 miles and have not had any problems doing this. It did seem wierd when I first read that because I had never heard of doing that either, but it has worked for 50,000 miles. I will try to snug it up a bit and see how that works. I will make sure to clean off all of the old oil so I can see if any 'new' oil shows up. BTW, 79CEEJAY (was that you?) I did make sure the old gasket was off the base before installing the new one and to whomever recommended greasing the rubber gasket, I did put some fresh oil on the new gasket before installing it.

>And I never had the
>luxury of a filter wrench. Good old sand paper and a strong
>grip gave me all the force I needed to install & remove even
>the most stubborn filters.

Doggone!! Remind me not to challenge you to a game of Thumb wrestling! :7

Big

2000 F250 SD SC 5.4L Gasser
4.10s 4x4 L/S rearend
Western 7'6" plow
White with parchment cloth

 

. And I never had the
>luxury of a filter wrench. Good old sand paper and a strong
>grip gave me all the force I needed to install & remove even
>the most stubborn filters.[/b]
You mean you never ever used the ol' Screwdriver thru the oil filter # 16, i thought everone did that at least once !

 

>. And I never had the
>>luxury of a filter wrench. Good old sand paper and a strong
>>grip gave me all the force I needed to install & remove even
>>the most stubborn filters.[/b]
> You mean you never ever used the ol' Screwdriver thru
>the oil filter # 16, i thought everone did that at least
>once !

In retrospect, I remember one time I helped my buddy out by changing his oil and I should have used the screwdriver method. Don't know who put that filter on, but it really fought me. I wound up grasping the filter so tight I crushed it a little; the sandpaper I used to give me the grip I needed also wore away all the paint & writing on the filter. Needless to say my hand didn't feel too great after that, but I always say, "That which doesn't kill me makes me stronger."

 

 

Mine leaks as well - always has since the first oil change. 2yrs. & 20k on my v10 F350.

I was first using the Motorcraft filters exclusively and they all dribbled - every one of them. I recently tried a Fram and that dribbles as well. I always make sure the old gasket comes off, wipe the contact area clean and put a film of new oil on the gasket and threads. The leak isn't a whole lot - doesn't puddle on the driveway or make a mess out of the undercarriage - just a dribble down the side of the filter and it looks oily all over.

They seem to not dribble as much if I put it them on really tight (more than 1 full turn), but I'd rather have it dribble a tiny bit than have to use a blowtorch and 4 feet of pipe to get it off or risk destroying the filter.

My guess is that the contact area of the filter mount is out of flat, not polished enough or something like that. I took a real good look at it last oil change and it looked fine - no scratches, swirl marks, etc.

I mentioned this to the service writer last time I went in for a warranty issue. He said 'a lot of them do it'.

I've been doing oil changes in cars, trucks, airplanes, motorcycles and the like for quite a few years - never had such a consistent leak problem with any of them.

If anyone knows the answer, I'd like to hear it. I've pretty much settled for just not letting it bother me anymore.

Cheers,

Dan

 

The directions for my power stroke taken directly from a Ford service DVD state that once the gasket is in contact to turn 1 1/4-2 additional turns. It might be different for your engine, but maybe you're not tightening it enough. It shouldn't leak.

 

Never heard of a leaking problem that wasn't either a gasket forgotten the time before or a cross threded filter. The blocks are not where I would look for solutions.

 

I had a similar problem on my recently purchased 2003 5.4 F-350 SD. I disconnected the engine oil filter cooler using a 14 mm hex socket and identified the flat surface of the oil cooler where the oil filter seats onto had a dip in it adjacent to the oil return cutout. It appears someone in the past had twisted the oil filter on too tightly and distorted the mating surface of the engine oil cooler. The engine oil cooler is already made of a flimsy grade of aluminum and this surface location of the oil cooler surface is very weak and can distort very easily. I gently pulled the indention out a little trying not to puncture the internal coolant heat exchanger, but looking inside of the oil cooler, I noticed granules of burnt carbon partially blocking the heat exchanger passages. I could have removed the oil cooler and flushed the granules out, but due to the compounded defects, I elected to change it out with a new oil cooler PN (APDTY 029221) for $58.

When I received the new oil cooler, by chance, I blew into it to make sure there was nothing loose inside. To my dismay aluminum dust came out. I took my air gun and blew it out with high pressure air and a cloud of aluminum dust came out. (This is important for anyone who replaces their engine oil cooler. Blow the aluminum dust crud out before you install it. You do not want this crap going into your engine bearings!) At the same time, I replaced the two 3/4" coolant hoses. They were a little chaffed where they were rubbing against the cross member.

This fixed my engine oil cooler leak, but it just allowed me to identify the gasket leak between the engine block and the engine oil mounting plate. Oh-well. I'm getting closer to bringing this F-350 back from it's retirement as a BNSF railroad service truck.

 

 

I had to have my gasket on my oil cooler replaced on my V-10 Excursion as well. It leaked for so long it compromised the pivot bushing on the twin I beam and had to replace that as well. I had a mechanic do it since I could not do it without a lift.