1987 Bronco II 5 speed manual 4WD 2.9L.

How do I gain access to the bleed screw?

The clutch went intermittent and soft at best.

The reservoir is full and no appearent leaks.

I thought about shotgunning it with a new master cylinder because it looks like it would be easy to replace. But maybe I should bleed it first.

Should I replace the clutch hydraulic line as well?

Does motor haven / parts store sell clutch parts and brake parts?

I also get a vaccuum leak every time I step on the brake and idle speed increase several hundred RPM.
The brake pedal is hard but you gotta push hard to stop.
I think I lost my power brakes.

Should I replace the power brake booster?

 

Howdy,

Clutch Bleeder: Access to the bleed fitting, is provided by means of a small rectangular rubber plug on the side of the bell housing. Remove plug, and reinstall, when done.

Clutch Hydro Line: Unless you can physically see it leaking, I wouldn't mess with it. A special tool is neccessary to remove the hose, or damage can be done.

Slave Cylinder: Pray it isn't this.

Bleeding: Absolutely the 1st thing to do! It don't cost much, for you to bleed the clutch system yourself.

I'd opt for a total bleed down of the clutch hydro system. Bleedng out all old fluid. It will probably be pretty black in color, when it comes out.

Insure that you check the fluid level often, as it is being bled, add fluid, as needed to maintain proper level. By all means, use quality fluid when refilling/topping off.

Brake Booster: Symptoms you describe, says the internal diaphram of the booster has probably gone bad. Its a relatively easy job to change it out yourself.

First though, Check the booster hose, from manifold or plenum, (as the case may be), to the booster, for cracking/air leakage.

Inspect the check valve for proper operation. Also check the condition of the rubber grommet around the check valve mounting hole, on the brake booster.

Brake Master Cylinder: This may also be the source of the problem. If the internal piston seals are bad, fluid will flow by them, instead of being compressed, when the peddle is applied.

Rear Wheel Brake Cylinders/Hoses: Check under the vehicle for the "inside" appearance of the rear wheels/tires, for any indication of brake fluid leakage.

You'll know it, if you see wet looking lines sprearding out from the tire rim(s). Either one of these items being bad, will have the give similar symptoms. Last but not least.....

Steel Brake lines: As with the fuel lines, Ford ran the brake lines along the inside of the vehicle frame, by means of clips to hold them in place. I have seen clips break, or come loose, and the steel line rubbed against the frame long enough to cause holes to be worn through the brake line. Trace all lines, and look for signs of leakage. Hope it ain't this one!! They are a b*tch to replace....