I hate U-Joints
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From: Homer, Alaska
I hate U-Joints
Heard some squeaking from the front end today of my 83 Ranger 4x4 plow truck. Just knew it had to be a u-joint so bought all 3 (might as well fix them all while its on the jack stands.) Turns out it is the brake caliper making the noise. I already have the new joints; the truck is in the air; I used anti-sieze the last time I changed the joints so no problem. Might as well do it now while the truck in in the garage. Just broke my vise pounding on the u-joints that were out last year and anti-seized to boot. It looks like maybe the torch is the answer! Just hope it doesn't snow for a day or two. Thanks for letting me vent. Does anybody have a cure for the problems of u-joints that will not let go? And yes, all the retaining clips are off. All 4. Is there something to put on the caps to make them easier to get out the next time? I'm out of ideas.
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Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Tower MN, Houghton MI
for getting them out, I always put the in the vise with two sockets, and start cranking. once i get tension on it, I will tap on the joints, and the caps pop out.
To make it easier to change next time, coat them with anti-seize.
However, on my BII, I always tack weld the caps on for strength... so they are non removeable, of course mine never last past 2 weeks anyways..
To make it easier to change next time, coat them with anti-seize.
However, on my BII, I always tack weld the caps on for strength... so they are non removeable, of course mine never last past 2 weeks anyways..
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From: Homer, Alaska
Well if the vise wouldn't break it sure would be a lot easier. These are the joints for the 4wd front shafts. The two outboard are fairly easy to get off, but the inner one has to be done on the vehicle, or the differential opened up to remove the shaft. Tried the anti-seize last time, but these things are still very tight.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 465
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From: Tower MN, Houghton MI
Originally posted by hreed
Well if the vise wouldn't break it sure would be a lot easier. These are the joints for the 4wd front shafts. The two outboard are fairly easy to get off, but the inner one has to be done on the vehicle, or the differential opened up to remove the shaft. Tried the anti-seize last time, but these things are still very tight.
Well if the vise wouldn't break it sure would be a lot easier. These are the joints for the 4wd front shafts. The two outboard are fairly easy to get off, but the inner one has to be done on the vehicle, or the differential opened up to remove the shaft. Tried the anti-seize last time, but these things are still very tight.
Once you have it out, change that center joint, and then throw away the C-clip on the inside. On the inside of the slip[ yoke for the passanger side shaft, put a spring about the size of a valve spring, this will keep the shafts pushed apart. Now next time you break an inner shaft, or need to change a u-joint, you don't have to drop the 3rd member.
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From: Homer, Alaska
The front hubs have small thrust bearing (really small). It goes on after the bearing locks and is held in place by a c-clip around the axle shaft. If I put a spring that strong in the slip yoke, will that small bearing take the load? It doesn't look too stout and probably not designed for a continuous duty cycle. It seems like a pretty neat fix for what I consider as a "design flaw". Those joints don't hold up very well. I have changed 2 or 3 of the center joints in about 5 years. Haven't bought the new vise yet, but if I have to keep changing these joints, think I will go to an industrial grade vise. Then buy a bigger hammer! Thanks for the tip! I use this vehicle to push snow in the winter (very hard on drive trains) and go to the dump in the summer (not quite so bad). Here in Alaska the saying goes: "Hubs in on Halloween; Hubs out on Easter." Pretty much true.
