Brrrr...No Heat!
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From: NW Indiana
Brrrr...No Heat!
I have a 2001 4.0L w/32K miles I bought used when it was warm out. Now, it sure is getting cold out. The compartment warms up normally. The gauge looks as if it's working fine. There's no sweet smell or snow on the dash. But, after an hour on the highway the heat stops. The thermostat gauge doesn't move. Is my thermostat in need of a change? Do you think the thermostat is stuck open? (I never heard of that) Is it the MAF? What is the MAF? Thanks in advance.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Salida , Colorado
I would say one of two things. Yes the thermostat could be stuck open, that would cause symptoms that you describe. Also , if you bought it used are you sure there is even a thermostat in it?
I'd pull the housing then you would know for sure.
If there is a stat in it look at it real close. If it's sticking you will see scratches on the center "pin" of the stat.
Larry
1996 Ranger Ext. Cab 4x4 4.0L
1993 Explorer 4x4 4.0L
I'd pull the housing then you would know for sure.
If there is a stat in it look at it real close. If it's sticking you will see scratches on the center "pin" of the stat.
Larry
1996 Ranger Ext. Cab 4x4 4.0L
1993 Explorer 4x4 4.0L
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From: NW Indiana
Hey Larry: This one has got me baffled! I changed the thermostat. I didn't check it for scratching as you suggested, yet. I'm at work and will when I get home. Well, after changing the thermostat I'm getting more heat but then it comes and goes. I'll feel heat then cold, heat then cold. When I changed the thermostat the antifreeze level was at the mouth of the radiator fill. After I changed the thermostat I put an approximate amount back in but in the overflow container. I'm thinking I solved the original problem but created another. Now I think I may have created another. Only about 1-2 cups of antifreeze left the system when I changed the thermostat. Since I didn't replace it into the radiator would that have created a air bubble large enough to cause the heat to fluxuate? Also, I'm starting to smell antifreeze. Haven't seen any yet.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Salida , Colorado
SteveO,
Check the control valve located inline on the heater hose. It might be right at the heater core box I think. It sounds like it is at fault to me. Pull the cover off of the heater box on the inside pass. side and see if there is any antifreeze in the bottom of the box. You might have a hole in your heater core. If you do, just replace it. I found it's better to replace than to have fixed and then still have the damn thing leak.
Let me know what you find.
Larry
1996 Ranger Ext. Cab 4x4
1993 Explorer 4x4
1984 F250 4x4
1982 Mustang GT
Check the control valve located inline on the heater hose. It might be right at the heater core box I think. It sounds like it is at fault to me. Pull the cover off of the heater box on the inside pass. side and see if there is any antifreeze in the bottom of the box. You might have a hole in your heater core. If you do, just replace it. I found it's better to replace than to have fixed and then still have the damn thing leak.
Let me know what you find.
Larry
1996 Ranger Ext. Cab 4x4
1993 Explorer 4x4
1984 F250 4x4
1982 Mustang GT
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From: NW Indiana
Larry & 99xlt: Thanks for the responses. I'll be checking the heater core tonight. I spoke to buddy over the weekend and he suggested that I might have a problem with a valve controlling the antifreeze entering the heater core. I'll look into A.S.A.P. With the holidays and keeping everyone happy my "baby" may have to take second piority. I'll get back to you within the week. Thanks and have a Happy Holiday.
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From: NW Indiana
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From: NW Indiana
Well, I've looked at the pictures and instructions that are somewhere on this site regarding the stuck/broken blender door and/or switch, and from what I can see the switch located above/attached to top of Plenum isn't working properly. I shined a flashlight in the space between the two with the engine running and twisted the heat control with fan and defrost on high. I can see that the switch isn't "twisting" much is any at all. I first seen it spin/twist about 1/16" of a turn the nothing. My delema is how do I remove the switch? I can remove the front two screws; however, I can not reach the back one. I can barely touch the screw with the tip of my finger, let alone fit any wrench back there. I attempted to remove stuff to loosen it up and still no room and no give. The duct work is made out of hard fiberglass and looks to be molded into the firewall. I used a mirror and seen there was only one screw on the top back and inaccessible. If I get the one screw out, how do I get it back in?
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
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From: NW Indiana
Gentlemen! I've Got Heat!!!
It took two Snap-On 1/4" rachets to get out the screw in the top/back of the blender door actuater. Once this was out we were able to test it and found that nothing was stripped; however, the motor in the actuater was seized. So, now I'm $58 broker. I guess that's better than a grand.
It took two Snap-On 1/4" rachets to get out the screw in the top/back of the blender door actuater. Once this was out we were able to test it and found that nothing was stripped; however, the motor in the actuater was seized. So, now I'm $58 broker. I guess that's better than a grand.