Fair trade value
If you know you are getting a good price on the new truck, do you just take trade value for your vehicle and be happy.
Do you take what KBB calls "private party" which seems to be between retail and trade.
Is there ANYBODY out there that has paid at or within $100 of invoice, minus any rebates and actually gotten RETAIL out of their trade???
I keep telling myself that I am going to try it one time where I just go from dealer to dealer that has a truck that I want, and just tell them right up front that I am buying a truck today, so whether it is from them or their competition down the road it doesn't matter to me and I am buying from the first person who will do this deal.............X-plan minus rebates and $500 under retail for my trade.
My trade this time is a '99 monte carlo with 112,000 miles. Trade value is $3,000 and retail is around $6,400, so in essence, I would try to get $5,900 for my car.
I wonder if someone would bite, or if I would just waste an entire day. The only thing that worries me is they would probably say it has so many miles they have to wholesale it and the wholesaler is only going to give $2750 for the car.
I also thought about doing all the homework for myself and telling them I own $3,500 on this car and if you can get me in "THAT" truck for a payment of $575/mo for 72 months I will sign papers as soon as you can draw them up.
I'm looking for advise, this time in February I hope to be telling everyone how awesome my new truck is.
Better for you to get the money than the dealer.
Last edited by aimhigh; Dec 14, 2003 at 12:30 PM.
It's been stated before that a trade-in confuses the whole deal. Payment buyers can get taken in a BIG way. The following technique normally gets me a good deal. However, there's no guarantee.
Locate all dealers within a range that you're willing to travel. Go to the farthest one and do your best negotiations. Take that price (the DIFFERENCE between your trade-in, the new truck, and any pay-off that you owe on the trade-in) to the next farthest dealer and get them to beat it. Keep working your way back to the dealer that you really want to purchase from (normally the closest one to work or home that had a good service department reputation).
You must know what you want and keep the equipment and options the same at every dealership. You should start your conversation with something like, "I'm going to purchase a 2004 Ford F150 xxx, with this equipment. The question is what dealership will get earn my business."
When you get to the desired dealership, start your conversation with, "I've been shopping for a 2004 Ford F150 xxx with this equipment. I want to do business with your dealership. You don't have to beat me best offer, but you have to be close (within $100).
You should also let every dealer know that you're a serious shopper and have limited time. One of my best deals took 25-minutes. I told them in the beginning that they had 15-minutes. Should you begin to get the run-a-round or a bunch of bull dumped on you, just walk out and don't stop when they attempt to real you back.
One dealer kept my keys and ignored my reapeated requests to return my keys because they were wasting my time. I finally stood up and YELLED out, I'VE ASKED FIVE TIMES FOR MY KEYS AND YOU REFUSE TO LISTEN. THE DEAL THAT YOU'RE OFFERING ME IS A TOTAL RIP OFF. IF THESE OTHER CUSTOMERS ARE GETTING HOSED, THAT'S TO BAD, BUT I'VE BEEN READY TO LEAVE FOR MORE THAN 15 MINUTES. NOW, YOU HAVE 2 MINUTES TO GET MY KEYS TO ME OR I WALK OUT AND CALL THE LAW. I'LL PRESS CHARGES ON YOU AND THIS DEALERSHIP FOR ATTEMPTED KID-NAPPING AND FOR STEALING MY VEHICLE.
I got my keys and a bunch of suits running to me with request to calm down. I walked out and never looked back. I ended up buying that vehicle for $4,000 less than their "offer".
Make your purchase fun. there are great dealerships and sales people out there. Walk out on the bad ones.
I was planning on an out the door price of $37,500 (tax, title, doc, etc...) and if the loan calculator worked at 3.9% (which also may be unrealistic) for 6 years, the payment is $578.19 per mo.
The way I got to $37,500 (actual number is $37,780, but I like to use round numbers) was them actually giving me $5900 for my car, adding the tax, adding the pay-off for my car ($3500), then subtracting $1,500 rebate.
If I should be able to do better than that, PLEASE let me know how.
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I traded in my truck because the value was $23,000 and that took $1,340 off taxes for the new truck.
I agree, it's rarely you get wholesale for their vehicle and retail on your trade in. You need to either trade retail for retail or wholesale for wholesale. Definately don't go in with a monthly payment in mind. My wife is a payment shopper and I am a total price shopper. They met her monthly payment, but were off by $1,800 on the bottomline price I was willing to pay for the vehicle.
Three days later I bought the F250 for my price which made the monthly payments $25 lower than what my wife wanted them to be.





