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It depends on whos you got, I have seen some that bolt on, when I did mine with parts from *** I welded them on. The best way to do these would be to remove the cab and work upside down.
Robert
72 F100 Ranger XLT W/ 86 5.0L W/AOD www.geocities.com/krazdndenver
That sounds like a big job! I would assume this means having a tall hoist and a number of guys, and unbolting the cab and the fuel lines and steering...etc=a ton of work. Is this what you mean? Thanks!
I've bolted them in myself already. I've never done any real restoration type work, just getting them to pass inspection type repairs!!! Get the bolt out if you can through the access cover in the floor. If it won't come out be prepared to chisel the nut/washer off from the bottom, or cut the nut off. Jack the cab up a little with a block of wood out near the rocker panel and cut away the rusted portion of the mount. Slide the new mount in, making sure the top (front) lip of the mount is under the seam that sticks out of the firewall. Then just bolt it through the firewall and floor where you can get good strong metal to draw it to the old cab. If you're planning to do a restoration you might want to take it to a shop and have it welded in, it will make a better looking job. If there is a body shop near you you might ask them for a price...it's a pretty common repair. But if this is just a daily driver type truck you can have it in yourself in a couple hours!
You'll want to at least remove the rotted parts of it. From there on use the new cab mount as a guide to see how much you have to get out to make it fit properly. I guess a lot of manufacturers make these mounts and I've had them already that would pretty much slip completely over an old mount. Then again I ran into some that required a little more cutting. You'll know better when you get in there and try to fit it!
And the M350 is the "Mercury" version of the F350...from back in the past when Ford sold trucks in Canada under the Mercury nameplate ( I think from 1947 to 1968)