PDS - died
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PDS - died
01' F-350 PDS with 60,000 miles. Truck had ran for 50 miles and been shut off twice. It had started fine and ran fine. Then on the way home going down the highway at 60 mph it started to lose power. Floored would only go 20 mph and then it died.
Started it back up and it idled and seemed okay. Tried to go again and it never got over 20 mph and it died again! (after only going 200 feet).
Water in fuel ight is not on.
Last fill-up was from a truck stop, where we always filll up on the interstate about 3 days ago.
It is cold out, about 15-20 degrees but with a warm sun.
It started this morning! outside, not plugged in.
Any ideas?
It did this last winter also. That time I changed the fuel filter and drained the water seperator but it still would not start up. The next morning the ford dealer had it towed in. They hoped in it and it started right up. They never did find a problem.
Currently sitting on the road.
Started it back up and it idled and seemed okay. Tried to go again and it never got over 20 mph and it died again! (after only going 200 feet).
Water in fuel ight is not on.
Last fill-up was from a truck stop, where we always filll up on the interstate about 3 days ago.
It is cold out, about 15-20 degrees but with a warm sun.
It started this morning! outside, not plugged in.
Any ideas?
It did this last winter also. That time I changed the fuel filter and drained the water seperator but it still would not start up. The next morning the ford dealer had it towed in. They hoped in it and it started right up. They never did find a problem.
Currently sitting on the road.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 27
From: Mesa AZ
Most dealers go straight to the Cam Position Sensor, I'm surprised your dealer didn't mention this to you. When you crank the engine, do you get a tach reading? If not, I'd bet that you need to replace the CPS. Any Ford dealer will have it for about $100 to $130 or so. Better yet, if you have an International dealer nearby, you'll save about $40 on the same part.
Good luck
Good luck
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Joined: Dec 2003
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Was the engine running smooth (just low on power?) If so, it is not a cam sensor for sure. The engine is going into "limp home" mode. The ECM cannot provide a substitute, or default, signal for the cam sensor therefore the engine will simply not run or just dies out. Sounds to me like one of your sensors is on the way out. IPR sensor most likely. A routine diagnosis will verify this, that's if the problem still persists while in the shop. And you can never rule out a wire harness issue.
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Originally posted by mtech2
Was the engine running smooth (just low on power?) If so, it is not a cam sensor for sure. The engine is going into "limp home" mode. The ECM cannot provide a substitute, or default, signal for the cam sensor therefore the engine will simply not run or just dies out. Sounds to me like one of your sensors is on the way out. IPR sensor most likely. A routine diagnosis will verify this, that's if the problem still persists while in the shop. And you can never rule out a wire harness issue.
Was the engine running smooth (just low on power?) If so, it is not a cam sensor for sure. The engine is going into "limp home" mode. The ECM cannot provide a substitute, or default, signal for the cam sensor therefore the engine will simply not run or just dies out. Sounds to me like one of your sensors is on the way out. IPR sensor most likely. A routine diagnosis will verify this, that's if the problem still persists while in the shop. And you can never rule out a wire harness issue.
I think maybe I have a fuel gel problem but not sure. Dumped in a jug of anit-gel, good for 100 gallons into about 20 gallons of fuel. I also changed the filter. Started up and ran rough for a little bit.
Then it died again and would not start?
How do I ruel out if it has gel'd verses something else?
Also last year it did not start that well in the winter, the year before it started great all year long, outside not plugged in! Last winter I was plugging it in and it still didn't start good!!
The dealer said the block heater was working fine.
How do I know if I have bad glow plugs?
When should they be changed? The dealer didn't check them last year (they didn't mention it and I didn't think about it).
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Glow plugs shouldn't have to be changed out. You can test them to make sure they have continuity and should be in the vicinity of .8 to 1 ohm in resistance. No resistance bad, Infinite resistance bad. You can check for solidified fuel by disconnecting the fuel line and draining into a bucket. If it flows well and there are no solid particles fuel solidifiaction is probably not your problem. I'm not sure off the top of my head but there should be a fuel flow rating which would help determine if your pump is moving enough fuel (however if it won't run at idle this shouldn't even be an issue)
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 632
Likes: 16
From: Fairbanks, Alaska
If it runs for a little bit then dies it is not the glow plugs. Glow plugs are for starting and after less than two minutes they shut off. You do have a tach reading while cranking? We are not talking while it is running but a reading while cranking when it wont start. Another thing to check is the fuses. If one is blown unplug the fuel heater on the bottom of the fuel filter and replace the fuse. The heaters have been known to short out.
Last edited by Crumm; Dec 12, 2003 at 12:44 PM.
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Originally posted by Crumm
If it runs for a little bit then dies it is not the glow plugs. Glow plugs are for starting and after less than two minutes they shut off. You do have a tach reading while cranking? We are not talking while it is running but a reading while cranking when it wont start.
If it runs for a little bit then dies it is not the glow plugs. Glow plugs are for starting and after less than two minutes they shut off. You do have a tach reading while cranking? We are not talking while it is running but a reading while cranking when it wont start.
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i just had Ford replace my CPS and another sensor. because my truck would shut off. also the check engine soon would come on after the truck missed when it was wet outside. Cost me $100... as long as your under 100 miles your engine warrenty should cover it all. seemed like a good deal to me.
