Turns out that R12A is sold today: https://redtek.com/12a/

Here's a thread that discusses it some. I didn't read all of it. : https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/topping-up-with-can-of-r12a-refrigerant.385000/te

That pressure-temperature chart I mentioned earlier will answer questions about operating ranges, to prevent freezing, etc.

For anyone reading this: Beware that this discussion is about using compressed flammable gas in a vehicle air conditioning system. What could possibly go wrong? Am I right? Hold my beer and watch this.

 

R-12 has always been available, but you need a license to buy it.
i get it and the R134-A from a company in Florida.

 

Just the EPA 609, it is comically easy to attain. I have about 70lb of R12 here, 1.5 30lb tanks and a ton of small cans.

 

yup, it is. but most people d know know that. heck these days you do the "test" on the internet, with all the correct answers in front of you.

 

I did take it seriously and learned quite a bit!

No tech here, but I can fix most HVAC and MVAC crap of mine easy enough. Even sprung for a high end Fieldpiece gauge set recently that will display wild data and subcool plus superheat

 

I can't find a good free version of the spoorlan chart, but thats the basic Hvac tech chart. they make expanded ones.

All these gasses that can go liquid to gas can technically be used in the heat transfer process of HVAC.

So Propane would be usable, its knowing the proper pressures to throw the low/high side in, which I saw mentions of high side adjustments earlier in the thread. Thats something you probably shouldnt' do without expereicne and a set of manafold gauges, but i digress.

Each of your different coolants have different effective ranges of temperature operation, and on top of those effective ranges, it goes deeper into pressure to effective range.
So you can make your 134 vehicle a bit more efficient in the deep south with some changes to the system pressure vs what you'd need/want in lets say... toronto ontario.

This is why most peoples home air conditioning units start working poorly if the temperature gets up around 100-110. The system is optomized based on the pressure to run most efficently at 65-90 most likely.
There is only so large of a gap that can have based on the coolant to pressure. blah blah.

I can't believe I remember all this **** from school 15 years ago. haha

 

that’s very useful information. @867.309 gave me a pressure chart for propane/butane but i don’t quite understand how to read it haha.

ambient on left, mixture up top, what are the numbers in the middle? low side? high side? ??