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I am doing a moderate refresh on a family members truck (little bit of everything- interior, exterior, suspension, engine repair, etc) and have run into some complications I’m hoping some of you experts can assist with.
The truck is a 99 F250 7.3 2WD Auto.
Anyway, the current stumping is coming in the form of a misbehaving water temp sender. The gauge panel currently shows cold all the time. I jumped the connector under the hood and the gauge pegged max so the wiring / gauge seems to be working properly.
According to all my research, the truck needs this part:
F65Z-10884-AA
However, that part is showing discontinued everywhere.
The replacement suggested seems to be SW-5130 but I am seeing it showing as discontinued or out of stock a bunch of places as well.
TS380 was mentioned as an option but with all these mixed messages and people not seemingly sure of what they need with the original pn# discontinued, I figured I would ask the experts instead of gambling.
I am doing a moderate refresh on a family members truck (little bit of everything- interior, exterior, suspension, engine repair, etc) and have run into some complications I’m hoping some of you experts can assist with.
The truck is a 99 F250 7.3 2WD Auto.
Anyway, the current stumping is coming in the form of a misbehaving water temp sender. The gauge panel currently shows cold all the time. I jumped the connector under the hood and the gauge pegged max so the wiring / gauge seems to be working properly.
According to all my research, the truck needs this part:
F65Z-10884-AA
However, that part is showing discontinued everywhere.
The replacement suggested seems to be SW-5130 but I am seeing it showing as discontinued or out of stock a bunch of places as well.
TS380 was mentioned as an option but with all these mixed messages and people not seemingly sure of what they need with the original pn# discontinued, I figured I would ask the experts instead of gambling.
Does anyone have any thoughts?
Rock Auto lists 9 different brands in stock. Can probably grab a part number there and make some calls to your local store.
Rock Auto lists 9 different brands in stock. Can probably grab a part number there and make some calls to your local store.
Yeah, I buy a ton of parts from them (this build included) but with all the people I have read online saying they got a part that didn’t work I didn’t want to roll the dice. Even if you go to sites and plug in your info, they give you a bunch of options and if you start reading reviews you get people saying it didn’t work.
I think it has something to do with all the confusion between auto and manual 7.3s and the different temp measuring strategies and most of these parts places not differentiating (or even asking) between auto and manuals, only asking engine.
Thanks for the reply. I had seen their site previously and they show the same OEM part that has been discontinued (and is not available from them either per their site). It’s in the menu and search results but says it’s “Temporarily out of stock” but I’m guessing it’s permanent out of stock since it’s discontinued.
I hate to say it, but unless a person has collected a hoard of spare OEM parts, time is running out to get replacements.
To those who are unaware (or even upset) that Ford no longer supplies parts for vehicles that, at a minimum, have been of voting age for three years and most which are up to 31 years old now, it's unreasonable to expect them to. It's really a miracle they'd kept making parts for them as long as they did, especially when I'm sure more than a few gubbermint alphabet agencies were breathing down the corporate collars to make sure the 7.3L was forced off of the roadways due to lack of repair parts for at least a decade by now.
It could be worse as I tried getting some front axle parts for a 2013 Chevy 2500 last year; the same parts that had been used from 1998 to 2018......5 years old......and I had to buy good used ones from ebay due to them being discontinued by GM.
I hate to say it, but unless a person has collected a hoard of spare OEM parts, time is running out to get replacements.
To those who are unaware (or even upset) that Ford no longer supplies parts for vehicles that, at a minimum, have been of voting age for three years and most which are up to 31 years old now, it's unreasonable to expect them to. It's really a miracle they'd kept making parts for them as long as they did, especially when I'm sure more than a few gubbermint alphabet agencies were breathing down the corporate collars to make sure the 7.3L was forced off of the roadways due to lack of repair parts for at least a decade by now.
It could be worse as I tried getting some front axle parts for a 2013 Chevy 2500 last year; the same parts that had been used from 1998 to 2018......5 years old......and I had to buy good used ones from ebay due to them being discontinued by GM.
Cleatus... you shut your filthy mouth you hear! Ford needs to offer parts a long as I have a 7.3 you understand? shakes fist at the sky and screams a bit
Well, I went ahead and ordered the last SW-5130 from rock auto. Installed it today and it works like it should. Just amazing that no company reliably markets a replacement for these discontinued parts.
Anyway, that’s another item off the list. Fuel system craziness is next but that will have to wait till next week when more parts show up!
So I was able to complete the next project which was fixing the non-functional always-full fuel gauge.
Removed the bed (I have a hoist so why not), got the tank opened up, and and discovered the tank was full of junk from the original rubber filter screen disintegrating into a million pieces.
Diagnosed the fuel gauge and found the sending unit was only working between 3/4 and 4/4 of a tank. That’s not really helpful.
Got a new part and decided I did not want to put back the self-destructing rubber trinket and after some research on here found a bunch of threads on how to do it. I took some inspiration from them but did a few things differently that I figured I’d share…
Here is what I ordered for that project:
Racor PS120-02 fuel filter
5ft 3/8 Fuel Injection Hose (30R9)
3/8 NPT to Barb adapters (2)
3/8 Stainless Fuel Line Clamp
3/8 Quick-Disconnect Male to 3/8 Barb adapter
Thread sealant
Gromets for the OD of the fuel hose (3)
LIke I mentioned, I took some inspiration from a bunch of threads on the subject but had a few ideas I wanted to try myself. Mainly, I wanted to ensure that whatever I did was serviceable and reversible in the future should someone want to do so. With that, I didn’t want to cut out OEM fuel line and start splicing things in. That’s why I went with the QD adapter so that I could use it to loop into the factory line to the engine pump. I also drilled 2 holes into the frame (and used an existing hole) to cut down on the amount of hose (I probably only used 4ft in the end where I had seen many people using 8-10ft because they ran way down the front of the truck to tie back in).
I also built a simple bracket (that reused two existing mount points) to get it up as high as I could but still make it where it was easily seen, serviced, and able to be protected. I used a spare floor mat that I had, cut it up, and built an extension to the bracket so anything that comes from the front is either deflected or heavily cushioned before it can cause a problem.
Anyway, here are a few pics if it helps anyone in the future. One thing I can’t help with is that crazy retaining ring on the fuel tank. Good grief it took me longer to get that thing to cooperate than much of the project!
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Ford needs to offer parts a long as I have a 7.3 you understand? shakes fist at the sky and screams a bit 
