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You would think being a "brand name" it should be good.
I dont remember what brand I went with on my truck, whatever Auto Zone had on the shelf at the time and got lucky.
I was not that lucky with an AMC car fuel pump. I got the one they listed for the car and it put out 18+ PSSI before I shut the motor off.
The other pump was for a larger v8 but I knew it would fit so I went with that one and it worked.
Funny the first was a brand name the second something I have never heard of but it works so it stayed installed.
Good luck
Dave ----
I put a Cater pump on the 304 several years ago. It has held up good so far but I only use ethanol free gas because it sits for extended periods of time.
Ordered a carter off rockauto. It's worked just fine for a couple of years now.
Carter, would be my first choice, is not an option from RA....Hence the Delphi.
The PO claimed vapor lock, but that's not the issue. I've dropped the tank, which is new, and run a hose direct from the hard fuel line into a can of gas essentially bypassing the fuel tank. Does not pull from it. So I ran a hose direct from the pump to the gas can. Does not pull. Here's where it gets a little weird. I unhooked the hose from the carb and it eventually primed, but it took forever and it was not an impressive flow, more like a trickle, but it allows it to run. This fuel pump looks new, like the tank, but it could be a problem even so. At least the PO used at least 1/2 a tube of RTV to seal the pump to the engine! It might be one of the few places in which fluids do not leak.
I've never been into a 300 before, oddly, but I'm assuming there is an eccentric on the cam that runs the pump? No pushrods on other to be aware of when I pull this pump off?
You are right the lever on the pump rides on the cam that has a lobe that moves the arm.
Just make sure you put the arm on the right side of the lobe and not under it or over it but y7ou can look at the lever and tell what side it goes on.
Dave ----
I just tried to replace my current mechanical pump and found a problem with the replacement. The spoon for the new one is about a 1/4” shorter than the previous one and has a bend in it. It will not move fuel so i had to return to the original for now. The original has a straight spoon and is a bit longer. It will at least move fuel. (Original problem appears to be fuel starvation over 1800rpms and aggressive throttle) looking into an electric.
Have you put a gauge on the fuel line just before the carb and go for a ride to see it is the pump or the ignition system?
I dont think a carb would cause the problem you are having but maybe?
Dave ----
ps when did this start and what type of spark plugs you running?
I ordered the Delphi. I also stopped by a good friend of mine yesterday who twists wrenches for a living. He said to hook hose to inlet side of new pump and hand actuate with hose in bucket of fuel to see if it works before installation. It is much easier on a Ford than a GM due to the length of the pump arm. He says it should be very hard to actuate, if not, get another. Like most seasoned wrench turners his arms are massive so this isn't a problem for him. If she pumps with a little movement, then you're good, if not, get another. He doesn't work on older vehicles much anymore that use this type of pump, go figure, but he did say that every brand is suspect of poor quality. He trusts none. <-- That's pretty sad.
He then went into a rant on a 1.5l ecoboost water pump replacement in an Escape.....and the transmission replacement in a 4WD Chevy that crapped out after 50 miles. Oh the joys...I do not miss. But I do enjoy visiting.
Have you put a gauge on the fuel line just before the carb and go for a ride to see it is the pump or the ignition system?
I dont think a carb would cause the problem you are having but maybe?
Dave ----
ps when did this start and what type of spark plugs you running?
Not yet, that happens this weekend. But my AFR gauge clearly shows me going lean and stumbling under hard throttle, until i back off the pedal. Runs just fine at idle or cruise. I can even hold about 65mph if i can get up there. Im going to check my accelerator pump also. Oh, after a pick up tube failure , and many attempts to restart on a dry carb. Standard motorcraft plugs with about 5k miles on them. Oh just an fyi. A funnel to a 3/8 hose, to the carter yfa air horn. is a much simpler way to prime the bowl than removing the top and you run less risk of mal-adjusting the float. 😅 lessen learned.
Not yet, that happens this weekend. But my AFR gauge clearly shows me going lean and stumbling under hard throttle, until i back off the pedal. Runs just fine at idle or cruise. I can even hold about 65mph if i can get up there. Im going to check my accelerator pump also. Oh, after a pick up tube failure , and many attempts to restart on a dry carb. Standard motorcraft plugs with about 5k miles on them. Oh just an fyi. A funnel to a 3/8 hose, to the carter yfa air horn. is a much simpler way to prime the bowl than removing the top and you run less risk of mal-adjusting the float. 😅 lessen learned.
A lean carb can show the same on the gauge but still have good fuel pressure to the carb and why I said check it just before the carb.
I have a John Deere fuel injected garden tractor that would surge and then die when it got hot, after about 1.5 to 2 hours of run time cutting grass.
The manual said there was 1 test port at the vary end of the fuel track, read after the injector & regulator. So how would you know if it was a bad regulator or pump?
I asked a tech at John Deere how to test and he said to take an old fuel filter, it is right after the in tank pump, cut the ends off so it could connect to the fuel lines and add a tee and a gauge.
Worked great and found the pump would fail when it go hot.
In your case you want to check before the carb, like me before the regulator.
Dave ----
A lean carb can show the same on the gauge but still have good fuel pressure to the carb and why I said check it just before the carb.
I have a John Deere fuel injected garden tractor that would surge and then die when it got hot, after about 1.5 to 2 hours of run time cutting grass.
The manual said there was 1 test port at the vary end of the fuel track, read after the injector & regulator. So how would you know if it was a bad regulator or pump?
I asked a tech at John Deere how to test and he said to take an old fuel filter, it is right after the in tank pump, cut the ends off so it could connect to the fuel lines and add a tee and a gauge.
Worked great and found the pump would fail when it go hot.
In your case you want to check before the carb, like me before the regulator.
Dave ----
I'm leaning heavily towards the carb as the problem. Im bleeding thru the metering circuit, and running rich thru-out. It will even idle fine, with the fuel mixture screw fully inserted. I have tried adjusting the metering rod several turns both directions, but nothing seems to have any impact on the AFR gauge. Clearly not behaving as it did in the past.
The rod will only change the AFR at speed / higher RPM than idle.
What was the idle speed when you were trying to adjust the idle mixture screw?
If too high the screw will not do a thing and why I ask.
Dave ----
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