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The housing of my GPR recently broke and the 12V lug pulled out shorting my alternator. Ended up replacing the alternator and GPR with a Stancor. Now the issue is this, the new GPR will not turn on.
Before I get into what I have tried alittle on the truck:
2001 F350 Manual 249k daily driver
AIH delete with 470 ohm resistor for code eliminator
EBPV delete w/ code eliminator
Hydra chip
Stage 1.5 power package from Jellibuilt
Now on to what I have tried/verified: Verified
Constant 12 VDC from battery to one side of relay switch
12 VDC to one side of relay coil
KOEO no change to relay state (expect relay to trigger and 12VDC to glowplugs)
0.3 ohms PCM pin 101 to coil of relay (wiring PCM to relay good)
EOT 47 F ECT 41 F (less 10 degrees temp diff)
Fuses good
Tried
Jumper 12VDC across GPR coil glow plugs turn on (new relay good)
Unplugged EOT, no change (expected a default value)
Removed Hydra, no change
Disconnected the AIH relay power to make sure I didn't have a draw there, no change.
Everything else on the truck seems to be working normal and it will start if I manually power the coil on the relay. At this point I'm thinking my PCM might have taken a hit.
Is there anything else I should try?
I have autoenginuity with the Ford modules. Is there a way to tell the PCM to turn on the GPR to verify I have a ground signal from the PCM?
Is there a possibility that the heavy gauge wire from battery power feed on the glow plug relay momentarily touched the ground-side wire (control side from the PCM) on the relay? If so, the low-side driver in your PCM is fried.
This happens a lot and is the reason the batteries should be disconnected while replacing the relay. IF this scenario is your case, you have options. Install a push-button relay control switch, buy a replacement PCM, or contact a place like Diesel Tech Chattanooga and see if this is a repair they can perform.
The other possibility is that you installed a starter relay in place of a glow plug relay. They look the same but function very differently because of the control side internal wiring.
Is there a possibility that the heavy gauge wire from battery power feed on the glow plug relay momentarily touched the ground-side wire (control side from the PCM) on the relay? If so, the low-side driver in your PCM is fried.
This happens a lot and is the reason the batteries should be disconnected while replacing the relay. IF this scenario is your case, you have options. Install a push-button relay control switch, buy a replacement PCM, or contact a place like Diesel Tech Chattanooga and see if this is a repair they can perform.
Pretty sure this is what happened to kill the alt so stand to reason it took something else with it.
And to answer your other question 100% sure it's #16-009 White-Rodger (Stancor 586 902)
Pretty sure this is what happened to kill the alt so stand to reason it took something else with it.
And to answer your other question 100% sure it's #16-009 White-Rodger (Stancor 586 902)
I have never installed one of those flavor of the week aftermarket relays so I don't have any experience with them. I know it's something other people have done and not have issues with so it must be okay.
Pretty simple operation 12v on 1 small terminal and the PCM controls the ground on the other small terminal side of the solenoid. If you have the solenoid hooked up and use a test light connected to ground you should be able to touch the small terminals and 1 should have power and the other will make the solenoid click and energize. Once that works it's all on the PCM and it's ability and it's wiring to turn the solenoid on.
I've been using the AIH relay as a glow plug relay with a manual push-button switch on the dashboard for nearly two decades now. They are physically larger than the glow plug relay and wired exactly the same. So far, so good.
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