I don't know if it's the truck (see my sig) or the tires but I'm having a hell of a time getting traction in the snow with my new F250. I put a set of BF Goodrich ATKO 285/75R16s on my stock rim and right now I have them at 50psi.

My traction in any snow at all sucks. I drive in a meadow a few times week and I've been hung up three times on snow covered grass on a slight incline. Tried again tonight with about 6 inches of snow on the ground and the truck is still sitting there waiting for me to get it moving in the morning. Actaully had the extreme pleasure of sliding backwards down hill with my wheels spinning forward . The 4wd is working fine-my wife stood outside and watched wheels on both axles spin. Seems like I spin and just pack the snow solid under the tires.

It never struck me that this would be a problem with my new truck-it's the first 3/4 ton truck I've had but my other half tons I've owned and a Dodge Dakota never hesitated in the same situation and I've been there with more snow than we have now.

Anybody know what my problem is? Do I need different tires for snow? I had a set of the same tires in 265 on a Chevy 1500 and they seemed to do great. Should I air them down more or is something wrong with the truck maybe? I'm thinking maybe these tires are too wide and being LT rated too hard to work good in deep snow. Maybe I should go see if I can find a set of cheap P rated snow tires and keep the ATs BFG's for use in the summer etc??

Anybody else have similar probelms or know what to do?

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 06-Dec-02 AT 06:45 PM (EST)]I have a 2001 F350 PSD CC 4x4 with 3.73 limited slip rear and I run BFG all terrain 35x12.5r16.5 at 40-45psi and I have never had any problems in the snow. I have taken it through 18"+ on snow without any hesitation. I have even driven up hard packed piles of snow, 3'+ high in parking lots to get a good spot no sweat. On my tires 50psi is the max maybe drop the psi a little? I think also I just read an article that the BFG AT has gotten a extreme snow rating or something along those lines due to its tread design, shoulder lugs, and the amount of siping on the tread blocks.:-X12

 

Weight is your best friend. The weight bias on these trucks is WAY forward. Your trying to push a heavy front end with a rear end that's barely touching the snow is not a winning combination.

Nothing wrong with your tires, the BFG's are GREAT. 50psi sounds about right, I might go down to 40-45psi or so if you're UNLOADED.

Throw 500lbs or more (sandbags, shingles, anything you can put in and take out easily, don't just dump snow or sand in there unless you really like shovelling and using a pick axe) just over the rear axle. Your traction will be night and day better.

An added benefit is your truck will ride better.

Short of that, maybe some tire chains?

Waxy

 

Ditto to what Waxy said. As one who has lived in the snow for many years, my best friends were the 50lb burlap sacks of sand in the back of my trucks. And yes it will ride like a Caddy with the extra weight:-X12

 

I reccommend an aggressive tire siping pattern. The siping will not help much in powder snow but it will make a world of difference on packed snow and ice. Put about 250lbs of weight directly over the axle. If you put too much weight over the axle the rear tends to whip to the sides on take off and can cause you to lose control on corners and end up going backwards down the road. I'm running about 55psi on the same size tires as you and I rarely use 4wd.

2000 F350SDXLT,SRW,RC,5spd man,V10, Front Leveling Kit,4.30 gears, 285/75/16 Wild Country, Moon Roof, Tinted Windows, Blacked out Tails

 

The more weight the better. I have 2400# of water softener salt (I only buy the stuff once a year) in the bed as far forward as possible and my truck handles like it's on dry roads. I've weighed my truck loaded this way and it came out @ FA4600#, RA4400#. That's in an '01 CC SB PSD SRW F-350 for an F-250 I'd go with about 1600# (depending on wheelbase). I've also got 255/85-16 BFG Mud-Terr. they fit perfectly on the stock rims, they are 33" tall, and despite what the metric numbers say they are actually 1/2" wider than the stock 265/75-16 F***stones. Yes, I know the're a lower load range, but at 65# they still handle 3000# each, and I only run'em in the winter.

 

Let me ask a dumb ? does this 03 have an ls unit in the rear diff?
weight is not going to help that much if there is an open diff back there!

Rich





02 F250 4x4 SC 5.4v8 6spd 3.73ls Trueblue/Silver and Chrome Nerfs

"All Levers"

 

>weight is not going to help that much if there is an open
>diff back there!
I agree. My last truck was a 2000 4X4 Ranger with an open rear and it was not as good as I had hoped in the snow. The open rear makes a huge difference when trying to make a turn or start from a dead stop.
Keith

 

Hey I live in snow country {not the city here but mountains only an hour away. Had a truck since 1988. ALWAYS put in 200 lbs of sand bags over Each axle hump {total of 400 lbs - even 500 might be better}.

Makes the truck just "go" in the snow and is safer, more stable, etc.etc.etc.

Get some sand bags in the back and leave them there.

Also your tread design makes a difference too don't know about those tires but any tire {need not be snow tires} that have the ability to clear themselves as they rotate around will always have advantages in dirt, mud, snow, etc. Once the tread gets filled up all you have is mud {or snow} being spun around at high speed and you go NO where and trust me "backwards' when you don't want to as well.
.

 

>Let me ask a dumb ? does this 03 have an ls unit in the rear
>diff?
>weight is not going to help that much if there is an open
>diff back there!
>
>Rich


No it has a limited-slip 3.73 diff. I would never own a pickup with an open diff and I always opt for whatever gizmo the manufacturer offers as an upgrade for the rear-axle, be it LSD, locking diff etc.

I got my stuck truck moving this morning without too much trouble. I backed up and drove around the hill a little bit and once I got it moving I turned up the hill and went right up. I drove around on some level snow and pulled up some less steep hills with very little spinning. Maybe I was just asking too much-this snow is fairly deep and heavy so I don't know. Didin't have any problems on the road.

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I definitely will keep some sand bags back there.

 

HillHound,

Do a search on some of the Limited Slip threads. The Ford LS is not a locker unit, it requires some forward or backward movement and sufficient traction on the spinninng wheel to provide the torque necessary to transfer power to the opposite wheel.

In other words, once your stuck and one wheel is freely spinning, as can easily happen in wet snow, the LS unit is NOT functioning, it will act like an open diff.

I know that some of the other gurus around here and myself went through the LS operation in detail for another poster a while back, if you can't find the thread, let me know I'll see if I can dig it up for you.

Waxy

 

I dug it up anyway.

__________________________________________________ ________

Before you tear into your diff., a little explanation of how your limited slip works may change your mind about it being worn out. I can't remember which site I found the info on, but try some of the popular LS aftermarket companies, Auburn, Detroit, ARB, etc... You'll find lots of useful info there. Also, for a real simple explanation of how your LS works, try www.howthingswork.com.
The LS system in your rear diff is actuated by torque, which in turn causes friction on a clutch pack. If the vehicle is stationary, with one rear wheel (especially a dually) spinning, the wheel rotates so freely that there is insufficient torque to activate the LS. Rememeber, it's not a locker, it's a cltuch system.

>Also I need to add that both sides,(all four rear wheels), will spin in the rain if I crank on it!

This indicates that your LS is working just fine. That's a lot of weight and rubber to get spinning! There is sufficient torque at the rear inside wheel to activate the clutch pack and transfer power to both wheels.

Essentially, both wheels must be moving forward for the LS to work. At the least, there has to be enough traction at the free spinning wheel to apply sufficent torque to the clutches for the LS to engage.

I had the exact same scenario you described happen to me within a week of buying my truck, and, like you, I was peeved. A little research into the problem, and the folks here, helped me to understand just how my limited slip worked and realize that in fact it was working as it should.

That being said, if you do have higher miles on your truck, the LS may be worn out or not functioning at its best. I would advise starting by changing the fluid in the diff. The concensus is that a good quality synthetic like Mobil 1 will give you the best operation of your LS and the longest life and durability. If you're still not happy, the clutch pack can be rebuilt as stated above.
__________________________________________________ __________________

Here's the thread.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/DCForumID117/4128.html

Waxy

 

Thanks for the thread-it has some good info. I only have 4000 miles on my truck and I think the LS is working the way it should. No I wasn't thinking of tearing into my diff!

I went out today and bought more sand bag tubes and I have 360lbs over the rear axle now and also aired my tires down to 45psi on the advice of the owner of the shop where I bought the tires. He told me it was the right thing to do as long as I'm not hauling or towing which I rarely do in the winter months. He didn't seem to think I was having any problems that sounded abnormal for driving in fields with deep snow.

I drove around somemore to test it this evening and it's alot better now. I stopped and started on a mildly steep grade that I keep mowed and it was fine-didn't even spin. Also went up a real steep but short bank with a running start and walked right up it.

Thanks for the info guys. If anybody has anymore good hints let's hear it.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 07-Dec-02 AT 11:18 PM (EST)]Get your tires sipped. Les Schwab does em for about $11 a tire. They work great for reducing heat from your tires and work wonders in snow...............hooya

 

One last tip.

Make sure when adding weight for traction that it is either over or forward of the rear axle. Putting the weight behind the rear axle will cause handling problems. Most dangerous of which is the tendency for the rear end to slide out and create and a severe over steer scenario as someone mentioned in a previous post. It can also cuase a loss of contact at the front axle on bumps and rough roads which is very dangerous when turning.

This holds true in any situation where you're loading your truck. I know it's far more convenient to place the load right at the back by the tailgate, but if you plan on doing any amount of travel, proper distribution of the weight is very important.

Waxy