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Ugh, another IWE thread

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Old Apr 15, 2026 | 02:37 PM
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Ugh, another IWE thread

Hi all, DS IWE noise. I have looked at so many vehicles and threads about this and I have tried:

changed check valve
removed and capped main vacuum hose
replaced the IWE
drove it with a vacuum gauge hooked up with no change
All to no effect.

Unhooking and taping the electrical condition has improved, but not solved it. The noise is much quieter, but increases when turning Left.

I've replace parts, run it with and without vacuum, what am I missing?
 
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Old Apr 15, 2026 | 02:50 PM
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Disconnect both sides. If that doesn't solve the noise, it could be a hub/wheel bearing issue. If you need to replace one, just replace both.

On my truck, when I pulled the IWEs, the passenger side fell apart, and the driver side was about useless. No way was I going to put new ones in, since they are so problematic. I put in a set of RCV IWE eliminators. No more noise, goes into 4WD without issues, or clunks. The front axles always turn though, since they are now "locked in" all the time. I like simple solutions rather than complex gadgetry.

https://rcvperformance.com/rcv-ultim...VNbM1qusCjfOC3
 
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Old Apr 16, 2026 | 09:03 AM
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From: barton city mi
IMO, if you have the IWE's engaged, via, I think you're saying, by pulling power at the solenoid, and if IWE's are locked, problem sounds more like a bearing going bad.
This is on a 13th gen or older right?
Truck specs could be helpful.
Does it sound like this?
 
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Old Apr 16, 2026 | 10:07 AM
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My guess it is your right wheel bearing.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2026 | 09:27 PM
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@johnday That video explains a lot. However, the video says that when the hubs are locked, it's in 4x4. It is not, the hubs are locked, but the transfer case is not engaged. That can only be done via the lever, or switch on the dash. Also, simply having the hubs locked does not make them noisy. Damaged IWEs will make noise though, even is they have no vacuum going to them.

If your IWEs are quiet, a good way to give them longer life is to disconnect the vacuum to them. That 's what Ford was doing prior to the release of the electric IWEs, which are still problematic.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2026 | 05:09 AM
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@JKBrad Correct on all points. Good catch. I keep that video bookmarked to show others what the IWE problem sounds like, I'm active usually on the "other" site helping guys with this trouble. Some of the descriptions I see of the noise will make your head spin, one guys moan, is another guys grind, as an example.
It gives a decent run down as to what is happening, even with the mistakes.
Question for you; do you know if when pulling the power to the solenoid, if the TCCM knows it? I recommend many times about doing that as an easy way to stop the grinding, and then do more trouble shooting as soon as you can.
Pulling the vacuum, as you point out, and capping is what Ford recommends on the TOD trans, I'm not aware of any problem doing that on ESOF. Are you aware of anything?
Seems good to be talking to someone else that knows this system.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2026 | 10:45 AM
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Welp, I'ma just gonna take it to a shop next payday and quit throwing parts at it. I've got too much arthritis to do suspension work anyways. None of the things I've found to do on the internets has worked, so I'll live with it til then. Thanks for the help guys.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2026 | 11:41 AM
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I just went through this exact thing it's the front differential check oil for glitter is present it needs replacing and Ford says parts are unavailable. Ford gave me an estimate of $8600 you when and if the parts become available. Good luck. 2018 F150 Lariat 3.5
 
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Old Apr 17, 2026 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by johnday
@JKBrad Correct on all points. Good catch. I keep that video bookmarked to show others what the IWE problem sounds like, I'm active usually on the "other" site helping guys with this trouble. Some of the descriptions I see of the noise will make your head spin, one guys moan, is another guys grind, as an example.
It gives a decent run down as to what is happening, even with the mistakes.
Question for you; do you know if when pulling the power to the solenoid, if the TCCM knows it? I recommend many times about doing that as an easy way to stop the grinding, and then do more trouble shooting as soon as you can.
Pulling the vacuum, as you point out, and capping is what Ford recommends on the TOD trans, I'm not aware of any problem doing that on ESOF. Are you aware of anything?
Seems good to be talking to someone else that knows this system.
As far as I know, it's a simple vacuum signal to the solenoid to release once the transfer case is shifted. Also, I believe the removal of vacuum is what ford recommended around 202, when even they gave up on the Warn vacuum hubs. I read posts of brand new trucks that had the vacuum fitting plugged on the IWEs. Even the part time models. That's why I went ahead and used the solid steel IWE eliminators. If you saw the OEM Warn IWEs out of the truck, you's shake your head.
 
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Old Apr 17, 2026 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by WDXPW
I just went through this exact thing it's the front differential check oil for glitter is present it needs replacing and Ford says parts are unavailable. Ford gave me an estimate of $8600 you when and if the parts become available. Good luck. 2018 F150 Lariat 3.5
They must want to replace the entire diff assembly for that. More than likely it's simply the pinion bearing, which can be replaced.

 
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Old Apr 18, 2026 | 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by JKBrad
As far as I know, it's a simple vacuum signal to the solenoid to release once the transfer case is shifted. Also, I believe the removal of vacuum is what ford recommended around 202, when even they gave up on the Warn vacuum hubs. I read posts of brand new trucks that had the vacuum fitting plugged on the IWEs. Even the part time models. That's why I went ahead and used the solid steel IWE eliminators. If you saw the OEM Warn IWEs out of the truck, you's shake your head.
You aren't kidding, the IWE's even look like they're made to fail, aftermarket are no better. I still recommend OEM though in the hopes they have better quality, but then that's doubtful. I've found that the problems are likely 50/50 between the IWE's and leaks in the lines. That checkvalve is junk as well, the solenoid, I've never replaced one.
Something I don't understand is why Ford only says to remove and plug the lines on the TOD, but not the ESOF. I've even pulled the plug on my own, just to see what happens, I've got the ESOF. Nothing happened other than the IWE's engaged, steering did feel a little heavier, mileage I really didn't pay much attention to.
Those RCV eliminators appear to be a good idea if someone wants to pull things apart. TBH, on my own if I started having troubles, I'd just pull the solenoid electrical connection, I'm pretty lazy, and getting lazier by the day! Of course, like I suspect many do, is keep driving until the IWE is completely ruined, and to be fair, most don't have an idea how these things work.
Crap, even the electric ones like on the '21 plus, still have trouble. IMO, Ford does not have a better idea regarding these things. Sorta dims their light bulb if ya know what I mean.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2026 | 08:19 AM
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I get it. And as far as using the eliminator sleeve, like I did, I had to pull the IWEs anyway. There was a howling noise like mud tires. I found the passenger side one was destroyed when I took it out. I surprised that with one side unable to function that it didn’t take the front diff with it, as surely one side was locked and the other wasn’t. It only got driven maybe 100 miles after the bad noises started though.

Anyway, good to see you checking in, Johnday. It’s been awhile.
 

Last edited by JKBrad; Apr 18, 2026 at 08:20 AM.
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Old Apr 18, 2026 | 12:00 PM
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From: barton city mi
Originally Posted by JKBrad
I get it. And as far as using the eliminator sleeve, like I did, I had to pull the IWEs anyway. There was a howling noise like mud tires. I found the passenger side one was destroyed when I took it out. I surprised that with one side unable to function that it didn’t take the front diff with it, as surely one side was locked and the other wasn’t. It only got driven maybe 100 miles after the bad noises started though.

Anyway, good to see you checking in, Johnday. It’s been awhile.
Oh man, that open front end is likely what saved the diff, wonder what would happen if you were to have had a Torsen or some other locker type, most likely $$$ 100 miles is all it took? Geez, I've walked across parking lots and have heard the grind of death a few times coming from a 150.
I've been checking in every so often, just haven't had a lot to say.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2026 | 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by johnday
Oh man, that open front end is likely what saved the diff, wonder what would happen if you were to have had a Torsen or some other locker type, most likely $$$ 100 miles is all it took? Geez, I've walked across parking lots and have heard the grind of death a few times coming from a 150.
I've been checking in every so often, just haven't had a lot to say.
Yep, being open likely saved it. I still need to change the diff lube, even though it only had about 12k miles on the lube. I'd hate for something to let lose in the aluminum housing, that's about a $3,500 repair bill. The good though is that there at hundreds of thousands of them out there in wrecking yards. Most of those in the south have never even been put in 4x4.
 
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Old Apr 18, 2026 | 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by JKBrad
They must want to replace the entire diff assembly for that. More than likely it's simply the pinion bearing, which can be replaced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihPn-e9iQk4
This example is not just the pinion bearing I appreciate the posting just the same. Ill never like Ford trucks again and I've been driving them since 1987 and I own 4 1968 vehicles, the failing parts are a decision on Fords part. Ever notice how Ford stopped advertising their trucks are the toughest ? They only advertise today when they have too many or on sale and these ads say nothing about suitability.
 
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