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This example is not just the pinion bearing I appreciate the posting just the same. Ill never like Ford trucks again and I've been driving them since 1987 and I own 4 1968 vehicles, the failing parts are a decision on Fords part. Ever notice how Ford stopped advertising their trucks are the toughest ? They only advertise today when they have too many or on sale and these ads say nothing about suitability.
Thier ads mostly have women pulling a horse trailer, or a dad who wants a manly version of an SUV. IF I had to buy a new truck tomorrow, it would be a Ram, and I’ve had Ford trucks since ‘97. Converted from GM.
I wonder if someone could make a business out of building a manual locking hub to replace the IWE?
That would require entirely new knuckles, brakes, wheel hub and axle shafts. The cost would be staggering. There is no real option if you want the vacuum operated system to function, or to have an alternative method to free wheel the front hubs.
This is Ford's TSB to deal with the unreliable, and problem plagued vacuum hubs. It does say that the bottom part of the procedure is for 4auto systems, but it works for part time systems too.
Its interesting if your truck has 4A as an option and you follow this procedure your front pinion bearing is spinning every mile your truck is driven accelerating a front differential failure. It appears the only remedy is to remove the front drive shaft.
That's the way it is. There is no ideal solution. Fords design doesn't give us any kind of real possibility for a meaningful after market solution.
Also, what good will removing the front driveshaft do? The internals of the front differential will spin anyway with an IWE delete of vacuum plug. All that will do is prevent you from being able to use 4WD.
Its interesting if your truck has 4A as an option and you follow this procedure your front pinion bearing is spinning every mile your truck is driven accelerating a front differential failure. It appears the only remedy is to remove the front drive shaft.
Trucks with 4A, TOD, TC's, the front drive shaft is turning even in 2A, due to the nature of that TC. It isn't turning as fast as it would in 4A/4H, but spinning never the less.
That's the way it is. There is no ideal solution. Fords design doesn't give us any kind of real possibility for a meaningful after market solution.
Also, what good will removing the front driveshaft do? The internals of the front differential will spin anyway with an IWE delete of vacuum plug. All that will do is prevent you from being able to use 4WD.
If the IWE's are working and not purposely locked in place, removing the front drive shaft would stop unnecessary turning of the front differential saving someone from losing use of a expensive vehicle as I did for 8 days because Ford parts for a differential repair are unavailable and my Ford Quote for repair was $8600. Unfortunately in light of learning all of this at a crash course pace I would choose no 4 wheel drive.
The problem though, is that Ford designed the hubs to engage with the vacuum released, not applied. It seems to me that if it was the other way around, as 4x4 isn't used a majority of the time, the hubs would last much longer. In other words, you will still need the vacuum hubs to function correctly just to keep the hubs from locking, the driveshaft has nothing to do with it.
My point was about the fix where the vacuum line from the engine is removed and capped on the engine and solenoid valve permanently locking the front differential in a drive mode so to speak spinning the pinion bearing 24/7 with the IEW's working and no drive shaft the differential is in a no spin condition. Or so I thought. The TOD transfer case is the death nail here. Although I was told there were 2 different transfer cases used in 2018.
Nope, if the hubs are locked, that is no vacuum applied, the axles and diff spin. Makes no difference if the driveshaft is in place or not. To reiterate, the hubs are unlocked when vacuum is applied, and locked when vacuum is released. In my opinion, it would make more sense if it was the opposite. It you removed the half shafts from the end of the differential, then that would stop wear and tear to the front differential. However, I don't know if that can be done in a practical way. Or, you could just remove the front differential altogether. I would go with 2wd hubs though if you remove the half shafts, or differential, as the bearings will then be exposed to the elements.
Success! Replaced P wheel bearing and now the only thing I hear is the Coyote rumble and my crappy tires! The change in noise while turning indicates a wheel bearing, but I was focused on the IWE, which I have apologized to.
Fantastic, Thanks for the feedback. I suspected the right wheel bearing, rest assured the left will follow shortly, but your experience will be valuable
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