Hello. So as the tittle implies I am installing the hood on my 66 Ford F100. Originally, I used the drill bit method so that this install would have been a snap, however, my painter lost my originals and I am forced to start from scratch. So here we go.
in pic one ( no hood installed the tape measure is for ref, the rear of my hood sits about 1/8+ above the front of the cab.


I have read a little voodoo can happen if I put a 1/8 inch shim (washer) in-between the Top of hinge and the bottom of the hood mount itself (see 2 pics below). Is this true?





Or do I grind off material from bottom of hinge (red arrow below) which should allow more room from the slotted areas of the hinge (hinge to cab) to drop the hinge itself?



Next, as viewed from the driver seat I need to slide or move the hood more to right. With hood down I was able give a good push but still need an 1/8 or so for a nice uniform fit. Again the slotted hinge to firewall will need to be widened but, I feel that I should slot on hinge to hood to get the relief I need as indicated by arrow in last pic



Obviously, what is done on the drivers side will also occur on the PAX. Please! someone say the shim trick between top of the hinge and bottom of the hood mount works. That just seems whacked,counterintuitive. Or does this work because of how the hinge works and I don't angle of the dangle??
Thanks

 

I should add that I found this 2013 Thread where, Mr. Wilker commented below. Anyone have that link? It appears that I only need to add washer to the front or fwd most hinge to hood bolt mount hole.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...to-adjust.html

 

I am not going to be able to give advice, since I’ve never done this. More about playing devil’s advocate.

Are those original hinges? Aftermarket repops? Used?

If your originals, did they fit correct originally?

I know I would gouge and bugger-up my own new paint-job.I’d find a shop that does high-end restorations, for whom this kind of work is child’s’-play. I’d bite the bullet and pay them. But you prolly have skills I lack.

 

Might not be the thread John was talking about, but this one from 2011 mentions using the washer. Doesn't sound like it helped the OP in this case but must have helped the one recommending it. I have read the same suggestion more than once, too.

65 F100 HOOD ADJUSTMENT - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

There is also the suggestion like you mentioned of taking some material from the bottom edge of the hinge where it meets the firewall. To me that seems like the better thing to do if you figure removing material will allow for more adjustment - it seems like it would work. Not all trucks run across this issue, either. @ibuzzard has some good thoughts about the hinges. Reproduction hinges have proven to not all work out well but might not be the case here. And if the hinges have had trauma like the hood flying open it can stretch/bend the hinges some that can be hard to notice visually.

 

@Tanker1450 , I too can add nothing, but I am curious if your vin number is F10JR65065...and does your truck have really cool telescoping 5x8 mirrors, a silver underbed tool box, and...and... asking for a friend. @amwilliams55

 

I think you should remove all the shims you have between the cab and the hinge. If you run out of down adjustment where it bolts to the cab use a shim between the front hood bolt and the hood a 1/8 inch washer will bring the back down about the same amount. If you need to move the hood to the right or left it is easiest to loosen the hood bolts slightly and knock the hinges in the opposite direction with a rubber hammer. There is a bunch of adjustment where the hinge bolts to the hood. If all that fails, you most likely will need a different set of hinges. NPD has a couple of choices with some NOS RH ones for a paltry $495.
Out of two parts trucks and my truck I could only come up with two usable hinges and one of them needed a washer to bring the back down.

 

This is a 1966 and that VIN is for a 1965. You missed a digit in the last 6 numbers, too.

 

Opps...just goes to show, even when trying to be funny....it fell flat.

 

The angle of the mounting pad on the hinge doesn't always match the angle of the brace inside the hood, so shimming can help since that angle isn't adjustable. If there's a mismatch the hinge gets in a bind and doesn't want to drop enough, which also puts stress on the hood brace and it's spot welds. The tighter the hinge pins are the more critical this becomes, a set of really loose hinges has enough slop that the pad can float to the angle it needs to be.

When I rebuilt the hinges for the '66 I'm building I added an eccentric pin that anchors one end the tie bar that links the two main hinge arms. Rotating the pin allows the mounting pad angle to be adjusted. I posted details of that here-

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post20933169

 

ibuzzard the originals were lost (long story) and these are a correct replacements from DC.
TA55HO thanks for the advice!
The Dassler its a 66' last 6 of the VIN F65376, yes, my truck has the western style mirrors, a tad rusty, so I'll be replacing with the same. If only for you to let that joke fly one more time. It was funny.
theastronaut, copy that!

Crop Duster- I loosened and tightened then again and again and again and... as seen in pic just a little tweak adding the shim should do get'er done. Thank for the advice.




Moving on to the grille where in the world do these go????


Thanks Gents!

 

The 5 (should be 6 altogether) studs with the nuts and external tooth washers go into the firewall to hold the back upper edge of the inner fenders. The other 2 I can't tell from that angle - might have an idea with another picture or two from the other side. Or maybe I won't be able to tell, either.

 

The bottom two resemble the rag joint pin/ bolt combo.... Can't see them clearly enough....

 

I think you've got it. I'm not used to seeing those separate from the rag joint since they are usually part of the assembly - until they aren't.

 

Inner fender to firewall, who would've thought. After digging through a ton of pics it appears that you nailed it. Long story short, back when I took the truck down to the frame I used parts bags properly labeled and attached to each piece part. Off to the painter, where they came back detached and in many cases bolts and nuts in a jar. As for the fender on reassembly I used bolts and an extra set of hands.


The other two fasteners has me scratching my head it. They are not from my rag joint as seen here.


I seem to remember they came off the lower valance (rock deflector)






Thanks for the feedback.

 

Those bolts belong on a rag joint and not that lower valance. The reason the inner fenders had studs and nuts is because they usually require shims " most have them from the factory" to get the proper alignment with the core support and have the fenders end up in the right place.