I hate to make this thread
Laughing Gas
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From: Adirondacks
I always thought frequent hard acceleration was good for the engine, so I do this often. I had two 3.5EB taken to over 100k miles each with no problems and other vehicles I know of always seem to have turbo failures. I think high idle hours without frequent hard accelaration hurts the turbos too (just anecdotal).
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From: San Antonio, TX
I always thought frequent hard acceleration was good for the engine, so I do this often. I had two 3.5EB taken to over 100k miles each with no problems and other vehicles I know of always seem to have turbo failures. I think high idle hours without frequent hard accelaration hurts the turbos too (just anecdotal).
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From: Maine, Virginia
There was a fella on my last mail route who owned a speed shop and he had a collection of Buick Grand Nationals.
I mentioned one day that I have a 3.5L eco in an F150. His comment to me was, "if you intend to keep your truck out of the shop, you need to wallop the hell out of it frequently and take darned good care of it at the same time",
So, every time I approach a freeway on ramp, I'm mashing the pedal and holding till I get scared.
My wife accuses me of beating on it. I asked her how many turbos her Singer has. She was not amused. Then all of a sudden we got her the 2020 Explorer with the little powerhouse of a 2.3L in it and she does the same damned thing. Who woulda thunk.
I mentioned one day that I have a 3.5L eco in an F150. His comment to me was, "if you intend to keep your truck out of the shop, you need to wallop the hell out of it frequently and take darned good care of it at the same time",
So, every time I approach a freeway on ramp, I'm mashing the pedal and holding till I get scared.
My wife accuses me of beating on it. I asked her how many turbos her Singer has. She was not amused. Then all of a sudden we got her the 2020 Explorer with the little powerhouse of a 2.3L in it and she does the same damned thing. Who woulda thunk.
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From: Maine, Virginia
So as I mentioned earlier, my nephew just got a brand new never owned 2025 STX out in Port Angeles, Washington where he's stationed in the Coast Guard.
The MSRP was $61,xxx and he got it for somewhere in the mid 40's because the dealer was highly motivated to move it. He's a 21 year old puppy so he hasn't developed any negotiating skills yet so don't give him a lot of credit for savvy shopping.
He traded a 2013 XLT in with the 3.5L that he bought used with around 140K on the clock. See? Not smart.......yet.
To be expected, the truck developed some issues mainly to do with the steering rack. He popped a code, I looked it up and told him that his rack needs replacing. Naturally he didn't agree and replaced the smart stock on the steering column only to find the code still there.
So, his ship gets underway for the shipyards in Oakland, CA. He leaves the truck with the place where he bought it so they could replace the rack and program it. $3500 bucks later he gets it back. But, he still needed to address the little nagging oil leak from the vacuum pump on the back of the engine. Why didn't he have them do it while he was away? Your guess is as good as mine. He's a mechanic and decided that he was going to handle it.
Well, he or someone who talks convincingly fast convinced him that his 2013 was going to be needing about $8000 worth of work so he panicked.
So, instead of calling Unk Tim for a little fatherly advise, he decided to make an adult decision and hem himself into a $55K truck. You know damned well that he was way upside down on the XLT. Instead of being the hunter, he became the prey. He's just an E4 in the Coast Guard and now he's strapped to a $925 truck note for the next 75 months. Quick math tells me that it'll cost him about $70K bucks when it's over. The taxes alone in Washington at 9% came to around $5500 bucks and that all got financed plus what he was underwater on in the XLT. They could have at least greased him first and I hope they kiss him when it's over.
I only tell this graphic bloody story to say that fixing the truck ain't so bad.
My truck is 15 years old with 135K on the clock. I would replace the transmission if needed or do something like the cam phasers and timing set if needed just to avoid the price of anything. The other choice, go to Carmax and get a truck that's a year old or in current model year with 10K on the clock and warranty that sumbich out to their limit.
The MSRP was $61,xxx and he got it for somewhere in the mid 40's because the dealer was highly motivated to move it. He's a 21 year old puppy so he hasn't developed any negotiating skills yet so don't give him a lot of credit for savvy shopping.
He traded a 2013 XLT in with the 3.5L that he bought used with around 140K on the clock. See? Not smart.......yet.
To be expected, the truck developed some issues mainly to do with the steering rack. He popped a code, I looked it up and told him that his rack needs replacing. Naturally he didn't agree and replaced the smart stock on the steering column only to find the code still there.
So, his ship gets underway for the shipyards in Oakland, CA. He leaves the truck with the place where he bought it so they could replace the rack and program it. $3500 bucks later he gets it back. But, he still needed to address the little nagging oil leak from the vacuum pump on the back of the engine. Why didn't he have them do it while he was away? Your guess is as good as mine. He's a mechanic and decided that he was going to handle it.
Well, he or someone who talks convincingly fast convinced him that his 2013 was going to be needing about $8000 worth of work so he panicked.
So, instead of calling Unk Tim for a little fatherly advise, he decided to make an adult decision and hem himself into a $55K truck. You know damned well that he was way upside down on the XLT. Instead of being the hunter, he became the prey. He's just an E4 in the Coast Guard and now he's strapped to a $925 truck note for the next 75 months. Quick math tells me that it'll cost him about $70K bucks when it's over. The taxes alone in Washington at 9% came to around $5500 bucks and that all got financed plus what he was underwater on in the XLT. They could have at least greased him first and I hope they kiss him when it's over.
I only tell this graphic bloody story to say that fixing the truck ain't so bad.
My truck is 15 years old with 135K on the clock. I would replace the transmission if needed or do something like the cam phasers and timing set if needed just to avoid the price of anything. The other choice, go to Carmax and get a truck that's a year old or in current model year with 10K on the clock and warranty that sumbich out to their limit.
Last edited by tseekins; Apr 26, 2026 at 04:58 PM.
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From: San Antonio, TX
I remember being that age, you want it all, and you want it right now.
Also, I'm now giving my truck a friendly flogging every time I drive it, and I'm driving more often. With the cracked valve covers replaced, it's much better. And maybe that's all it really needed. I need to lower my expectations for having a perfectly sealed engine on an 11 year old truck. It sure does run good though. As long as it's not draining oil onto the exhaust and making me smell it while I'm driving, it should be just fine.
And this brings up another point. Ford has been putting plastic oil containment parts on these engines fro years now. It never works out well in the long run. It's the source of many complaints. Aluminum or magnesium valve covers and oil pans don't weigh that much more, or cost that much more to produce. I'd gladly pay the $19.95 extra per vehicle it costs to produce them that way, and the 1/10,000th of an MPG fuel mileage hit, in order to get a engine that wont puke oil as soon as part starts to age.
Also, I'm now giving my truck a friendly flogging every time I drive it, and I'm driving more often. With the cracked valve covers replaced, it's much better. And maybe that's all it really needed. I need to lower my expectations for having a perfectly sealed engine on an 11 year old truck. It sure does run good though. As long as it's not draining oil onto the exhaust and making me smell it while I'm driving, it should be just fine.
And this brings up another point. Ford has been putting plastic oil containment parts on these engines fro years now. It never works out well in the long run. It's the source of many complaints. Aluminum or magnesium valve covers and oil pans don't weigh that much more, or cost that much more to produce. I'd gladly pay the $19.95 extra per vehicle it costs to produce them that way, and the 1/10,000th of an MPG fuel mileage hit, in order to get a engine that wont puke oil as soon as part starts to age.
Last edited by JKBrad; Apr 26, 2026 at 06:45 PM.
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From: Maine, Virginia
I sold our 2004 Expedition to a friend, an event that I really try to avoid. But, my friend just had to have because she knows how I maintain my vehicles and she was convinced that my leftovers are better than most others. The truck about 160K on the clock when they bought it. It was actually purchased for t heir teenager who was still in HS. Talk about a party wagon!!!!!
At about 175K, the intake had to be replaced, it's plastic. That was the first engine work ever done to that amazing little 4.6L. Then the rear pinion seal went started leaking, no big deal. Then a senso was replaced and she's been golden since. I sold it because it was our third vehicle and it didn't get used enough to justify having it.
At 20 years old, you could still hang meat in the cabin when the AC was on and the heat would drive you out.
5K oil changes since new.
50K transmission flushed since new.
100K axle oil dump and plug / coil changes since new along with the serp belt.
Fairly new rotors all around with Ford pads.
Even old, it was worth it to me to treat it like it was my forever vehicle.
Ford builds trucks to last even if they need a little love once in a while.
At about 175K, the intake had to be replaced, it's plastic. That was the first engine work ever done to that amazing little 4.6L. Then the rear pinion seal went started leaking, no big deal. Then a senso was replaced and she's been golden since. I sold it because it was our third vehicle and it didn't get used enough to justify having it.
At 20 years old, you could still hang meat in the cabin when the AC was on and the heat would drive you out.
5K oil changes since new.
50K transmission flushed since new.
100K axle oil dump and plug / coil changes since new along with the serp belt.
Fairly new rotors all around with Ford pads.
Even old, it was worth it to me to treat it like it was my forever vehicle.
Ford builds trucks to last even if they need a little love once in a while.
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From: San Antonio, TX
I think the best engine Ford made in recent times. We used to absolutely run the hell out of 4.6 police cars. Then they would idle for an hour or two at a time. Sometimes more if you were stuck on a scene. The cars would get used 24 hrs a day, most days, then be taken out of service to be auctioned at 70k miles. Most of them still ran excellent at that point. The ones that ran a little rough, or used oil, had really been through the wringer.
I've also had an F150, and 2 Expeditions with the 4.6, none gave the slightest bit of trouble. Simple, SOHC engines. Got better fuel mileage than most base V6s do today. In a truck, they wont win a drag race, or tow to the maximum limit, but they would serve the vast majority of 1/2 ton owners well.
I've also had an F150, and 2 Expeditions with the 4.6, none gave the slightest bit of trouble. Simple, SOHC engines. Got better fuel mileage than most base V6s do today. In a truck, they wont win a drag race, or tow to the maximum limit, but they would serve the vast majority of 1/2 ton owners well.
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Maine, Virginia
Now that I've had a 3.5L eco with nary an issue, I think t hat if I were to get another full size truck, I'd be interested in the 5.0L. If none were available in what I wanted, I'd get the 3.5L in heart beat without a second thought.
The 2.7L is the one that I'm still having questions about in a full size truck. In fact, an article scrolled across my feed this morning that was suggesting that Ford is considering the 3.0L in the future. Weather that's a 2.7 replacement or a 2.7 and 3.5, who knows. Probably just click bait.
For what my nephew paid for his F150, could get an F150 xl 2wd and an Escape.
The 2.7L is the one that I'm still having questions about in a full size truck. In fact, an article scrolled across my feed this morning that was suggesting that Ford is considering the 3.0L in the future. Weather that's a 2.7 replacement or a 2.7 and 3.5, who knows. Probably just click bait.
For what my nephew paid for his F150, could get an F150 xl 2wd and an Escape.
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After 10 1/2 years and 74,000 miles, I'm forming a different opinion of my truck.
It started last week. I have oil leak issues. I can smell it burning off the exhaust while I'm in traffic, and I can see it leaving spots on the garage floor. It's on the back of the heads, dripping down. I bought some new valve covers, but I injured my shoulder a short time and couldn't do the work. I'd just replaced the vacuum pump a couple years before, then replaced the vacuum pump seal last year.
So, off to the local, highly rated independent shop that I trust. I explain the issue, and drop it off. The next day I get a call explaining their findings. So, as I suspected, both valve covers (not uncommon), AND then they found the front crank seal, along with the rear main. The only major thing not leaking is the oil pan. They used dye in the oil to confirm.
Since the front cover has to come off the engine, a lot of stuff has to be moved. And while in there, it would make little sense not to go ahead and do the cam phaser update, and the water pump. Also, the transmission/transfer case has to come out, to get to the rear main. That would include a transmission service, since it's coming out. That's a lot of surgery, and shop labor.
Total estimate was right around $12k. Even though my truck is in great shape, with lowish miles, I can't justify that kind of money for a vehicle with a trade value of about $20k.
So, All I'm having done is the valve covers. The main, the crank seal, and the phaser/timing chain job, will not get done. I use no oil between changes, so I can't justify it. It gives me a new opinion on boosted, small displacement engines though. I did a lot of research this weekend and found this is not uncommon. My son-in-law had a 2.7 that leaked like a sieve, from every orifice, and after several attempts to stop the hemorrhaging, gave up and traded it in.
So, I'm at a crossroads with this truck. My decision is to have just the valve covers done. That will keep the oil off the exhaust. I suspect that with nothing dripping down, the oil collecting at the bottom of the bell housing will be reduced. The front crank was nothing more than oily residue, no drips.
I can't spend $12k on it, just to still have a 74k mile engine. Then there is the RnR of the transmission, and if it has an issue down the road, that's another $4-5k. Just can't make it make sense. My gut is telling me to trade it after the valve covers are done. I hate to even think about it, because there isn't really a new truck on the market that appeals to me. Ford still has the troubled 10 speed, most Rams don't look good to me. GM and Toyota isn't even worth considering due to an entirely unacceptable rate of engine failures. Not to mention that GM uses the same 10 speed as Ford. There are 3/4 ton truck to consider, I guess. I'm not sure if the heavier duty version of the 10 speed is any better.
Anyway, my truck has always ran excellent. Never used oil, pulls like a much bigger engine, and never has had any issues other than maintenance, a vacuum pump and the IWEs. I always took great care of it. In my opinion, if you use the EcoBoosts to pull, or haul, it's a matter of when, not if, the pressure in the engine pushes oil past the seals. The valve cover replacement is all I'm willing to do right now.
A remanufactured engine from Ford is about $6,500. If I did that, I'd spend a little more. But I'd still have the old transmission. So, I've got a lot of thinking to do. If the dripping stop with the valve covers, the need to trade it will become less urgent. And yeah, if I'm not using oil, what's a few drips. But, the truck will never be worth more than it is now, and I don't want to need to buy a new truck 5 or 10 years from now.
It started last week. I have oil leak issues. I can smell it burning off the exhaust while I'm in traffic, and I can see it leaving spots on the garage floor. It's on the back of the heads, dripping down. I bought some new valve covers, but I injured my shoulder a short time and couldn't do the work. I'd just replaced the vacuum pump a couple years before, then replaced the vacuum pump seal last year.
So, off to the local, highly rated independent shop that I trust. I explain the issue, and drop it off. The next day I get a call explaining their findings. So, as I suspected, both valve covers (not uncommon), AND then they found the front crank seal, along with the rear main. The only major thing not leaking is the oil pan. They used dye in the oil to confirm.
Since the front cover has to come off the engine, a lot of stuff has to be moved. And while in there, it would make little sense not to go ahead and do the cam phaser update, and the water pump. Also, the transmission/transfer case has to come out, to get to the rear main. That would include a transmission service, since it's coming out. That's a lot of surgery, and shop labor.
Total estimate was right around $12k. Even though my truck is in great shape, with lowish miles, I can't justify that kind of money for a vehicle with a trade value of about $20k.
So, All I'm having done is the valve covers. The main, the crank seal, and the phaser/timing chain job, will not get done. I use no oil between changes, so I can't justify it. It gives me a new opinion on boosted, small displacement engines though. I did a lot of research this weekend and found this is not uncommon. My son-in-law had a 2.7 that leaked like a sieve, from every orifice, and after several attempts to stop the hemorrhaging, gave up and traded it in.
So, I'm at a crossroads with this truck. My decision is to have just the valve covers done. That will keep the oil off the exhaust. I suspect that with nothing dripping down, the oil collecting at the bottom of the bell housing will be reduced. The front crank was nothing more than oily residue, no drips.
I can't spend $12k on it, just to still have a 74k mile engine. Then there is the RnR of the transmission, and if it has an issue down the road, that's another $4-5k. Just can't make it make sense. My gut is telling me to trade it after the valve covers are done. I hate to even think about it, because there isn't really a new truck on the market that appeals to me. Ford still has the troubled 10 speed, most Rams don't look good to me. GM and Toyota isn't even worth considering due to an entirely unacceptable rate of engine failures. Not to mention that GM uses the same 10 speed as Ford. There are 3/4 ton truck to consider, I guess. I'm not sure if the heavier duty version of the 10 speed is any better.
Anyway, my truck has always ran excellent. Never used oil, pulls like a much bigger engine, and never has had any issues other than maintenance, a vacuum pump and the IWEs. I always took great care of it. In my opinion, if you use the EcoBoosts to pull, or haul, it's a matter of when, not if, the pressure in the engine pushes oil past the seals. The valve cover replacement is all I'm willing to do right now.
A remanufactured engine from Ford is about $6,500. If I did that, I'd spend a little more. But I'd still have the old transmission. So, I've got a lot of thinking to do. If the dripping stop with the valve covers, the need to trade it will become less urgent. And yeah, if I'm not using oil, what's a few drips. But, the truck will never be worth more than it is now, and I don't want to need to buy a new truck 5 or 10 years from now.
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From: Maine, Virginia
i just did that job on my 2015 3.2. They installed water pump, 2 new exhaust manafolds, valve covers, front timing cover gasket, new crossover coolant line. Spent $7,800. The good news is I still don’t have a truck payment because to replace my f-150 platinum would be close to $100k and that to me is not affordable. Good luck
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From: San Antonio, TX
Watching the seep at the rear main now. There's nowhere else left that the oil could be coming from. Today, I will change the oil, and use Mobil 1 10w40 high mileage. Hopefully that will give the seal just enough swell. I'm using 40 weight, because it doesn't really make that much difference over 30 wt. The 10w is not a factor in South Texas, as the temp will rarely dip below 15 F. Hope fully the additive in the HM oil will help it hold. Oil isn't dripping, so changes are fair that it'll work.
The timing cover is still clean, so whatever is going on there, is very slight.
The timing cover is still clean, so whatever is going on there, is very slight.
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 40,006
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From: Maine, Virginia
Watching the seep at the rear main now. There's nowhere else left that the oil could be coming from. Today, I will change the oil, and use Mobil 1 10w40 high mileage. Hopefully that will give the seal just enough swell. I'm using 40 weight, because it doesn't really make that much difference over 30 wt. The 10w is not a factor in South Texas, as the temp will rarely dip below 15 F. Hope fully the additive in the HM oil will help it hold. Oil isn't dripping, so changes are fair that it'll work.
The timing cover is still clean, so whatever is going on there, is very slight.
The timing cover is still clean, so whatever is going on there, is very slight.
Is your oil level dropping substantially? If you were inclined to have it fixed, is there another piece of work or maintenance that could be performed while the transmission has been pulled off the engine?
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From: San Antonio, TX
The vacuum pump was replaced, and is not leaking. It's in a terrible spot, and hard to monitor, but I look there every time I roll under the truck. I'm not using or losing any measurable amount of oil. Is just enough to cause a drip to begin to form.
