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Best ramps

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Old Apr 12, 2026 | 08:58 PM
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Best ramps

I've recently had occasion to get the front of my 79 2wd in the air. I have a decent set of ramps I use for my classic Fords, but my truck didn't like them. Instead of climbing up the ramps, the rear wheels just spun and wouldn't push the truck up the ramps. If they started to push, the ramps simply grated along the concrete. Any ideas? Never encountered that before in all my years.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2026 | 10:14 PM
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Long ago I built two ramps using 2x12s, and I have a pair that are essentially shaped pieces of 6x8 timber, and in both cases I nailed pieces of old car tire under the start of the ramp so as soon as the weight gets on there, they don't move.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2026 | 10:28 PM
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That can happen when you try to ease it up them, espicially when the front tires are right at the bottom lip of the ramos. Pull up to them, make sure you are 100% lined up with the front tires, back up a few feet and do a 2 footed faster than a idle bump the gas running roll at them.

Also take a grinder and knock off the power coated paint on the bottom lip/edge of the ramp to help them maybe get a better bite on the concrete.

Or get this jack (which is an awesome jack by the way) and just jack the truck up, and put the ramps under the tires. Then no run at them and fear running off the far ends.

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-...ack-59136.html

 
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Old Apr 12, 2026 | 10:37 PM
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I've often jacked, then slid the ramp under, to easily back off.
 
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Old Apr 12, 2026 | 10:47 PM
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If I could not idle roll / throttle blip roll up them, straight to the jack I'd go.

 

Last edited by 77&79F250; Apr 12, 2026 at 10:49 PM.
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Old Apr 13, 2026 | 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
If I could not idle roll / throttle blip roll up them, straight to the jack I'd go.
I never trusted them stamped steel ramps to not collapse either, if one was able to get up on them. They look pretty steep too. Two together, hooked together like that, would make a decent wheel chock.

I have a set of the black molded Rhino Ramps hung on a wall, the heavier ones, they do well, light too. I made a pair for my Gold Wing trike, 7" high squares, then an incline that hooked to them, so once up on the block, I could simply remove the incline ... just had to remember to put it back before driving off. I used the electric reverser and a little leg assist while standing in front of a fender to back it up on them.
 

Last edited by tbear853; Apr 13, 2026 at 09:13 AM.
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Old Apr 13, 2026 | 10:10 AM
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I've had thesef or over 30 years and I have no complaints.
I bought them when I first no longer worked in an auto shop and started doing my oil changes at home.
Never owned a pair of the metal ones and for one reasonor another I just never cared for them.
I also use them so the nose of my ATV clears the toolbox so I can shut the tailgate.


My front axle is 3200 lbs.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2026 | 10:29 AM
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Looks like them .... except mine hang on a pair of big nails up on a wall when not in use.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2026 | 10:52 AM
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Mine go underneith my camping trailer when not in use.
 
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Old Apr 13, 2026 | 08:50 PM
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I have seen a guy use 4 of the metal ones and see saw (drive) his truck back and forth (up and down the ramps), moving the ramps closer to each other each time. So eventually the complete truck was ON TOP OF ALL FOUR RAMPS. What do you trhink of this set up?


 
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Old Apr 14, 2026 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
I have seen a guy use 4 of the metal ones and see saw (drive) his truck back and forth (up and down the ramps), moving the ramps closer to each other each time. So eventually the complete truck was ON TOP OF ALL FOUR RAMPS.
Not for me.

Originally Posted by 77&79F250
What do you trhink of this set up?

Looks as solid as if were just the two jack stands. Those blocks are might near solid and are plenty stout & stable.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2026 | 10:15 AM
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All good advice from fellow FTE members.
Consider using a piece of ~ 1/4" flat rubber underneath each metal ramp, like semi's (tractor) anti-sail mud flap or conveyor belt rubber.

Like T Bear, 20 plus years ago I built myself a set of wooden ramps, used remnant pieces of heavy timber Douglas fir 12" x 12", cut the approach angle using the wood shop's band saw. On the bottom, used 3/4" exterior plywood and lined the very bottom with 1/4" conveyor belt rubber. When I was an active duty Seabee, had access to allot excess resources, shops and shop equipment. Had good use for stuff being throw away.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2026 | 11:09 AM
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The biggest problem is I can't get traction on the rear wheels, this is a 2wd. The front wheels get to the ramp but don't get pushed forward, as the rears just spin. The other part is keeping the ramps from moving.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2026 | 11:37 AM
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Can you find some truck mudflaps to put under your ramps and also your rear tires..? When I lived down SoCal I had this issue in my garage due to the garage floor being slick, bought some cheap semi-truck mudflaps, I think the second time I ended up using some small sheet metal screws through the mudflap that stuck out just a tad to "grip" the concrete, kinda like studded tires, to keep them in place. Also, can you add any weight to the bed, at the very rear to help get some more traction? Maybe buy a few bags of kwik-crete and stack on the tailgate...
 
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Old Apr 14, 2026 | 01:19 PM
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If practical lower the air pressure in your rear tires, it will permit better grip and with added weight in the bed like Brother Pickupmanx2 indicated it should prevent your rear tires from spinning.
 
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